88 Timing Problem
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 772
Likes: 6
From: Huntsville AL
88 Timing Problem
Went to check the timing. The timing mark is white and easily visible w/ the engine off.
Disconnect the plug by the brake booster.
Connect Timing Light (yes it is connected to plug wire #1).
Crank engine and cannot find timing mark anywhere.
It is as if it is so far out of time that the mark is not even showing up.
I am getting 27.4 mpg on the highway and no pinging or anything (using 93 octane fuel).
I have to assume the timing is right but this is so wierd that you cannot see what it is set to.
The car does have a Mallory ignition module. Could this be causing the problem and if so - how do I disconnect.
Would really like to know what the timing is set to but right now I have no idea how to proceed.
Disconnect the plug by the brake booster.
Connect Timing Light (yes it is connected to plug wire #1).
Crank engine and cannot find timing mark anywhere.
It is as if it is so far out of time that the mark is not even showing up.
I am getting 27.4 mpg on the highway and no pinging or anything (using 93 octane fuel).
I have to assume the timing is right but this is so wierd that you cannot see what it is set to.
The car does have a Mallory ignition module. Could this be causing the problem and if so - how do I disconnect.
Would really like to know what the timing is set to but right now I have no idea how to proceed.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 772
Likes: 6
From: Huntsville AL
Installed some whiteout on the timing mark just to make sure it was good and white.
Timing light is working but tried another one just in case it was the problem.
Can't see the mark flashing from either side of the engine. My guess it is facing down at the time of the flash.
Was wandering if the damper could seperate or if someone installed it keyed wrong possibly.
Replacing the damper looks like a job I don't really want to tackle unless the engine starts running bad.
Timing light is working but tried another one just in case it was the problem.
Can't see the mark flashing from either side of the engine. My guess it is facing down at the time of the flash.
Was wandering if the damper could seperate or if someone installed it keyed wrong possibly.
Replacing the damper looks like a job I don't really want to tackle unless the engine starts running bad.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by thomastl
Replacing the damper looks like a job I don't really want to tackle unless the engine starts running bad.
Originally Posted by thomastl
How can I verify that the damper is seperated?
Never fooled w/ this kind of thing before.
Never fooled w/ this kind of thing before.
RACE ON!!!
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 772
Likes: 6
From: Huntsville AL
Just checked it. W/ the timing mark at TDC the rotor is pointed directly to the drivers side of the car (toward the tach pickup on the side of the cap) between 7 and 2.
I assume this means the damper has slipped or moved or whatever.
I assume this means the damper has slipped or moved or whatever.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,174
Likes: 6
From: NW MN
Originally Posted by thomastl
Just checked it. W/ the timing mark at TDC the rotor is pointed directly to the drivers side of the car (toward the tach pickup on the side of the cap) between 7 and 2.
I assume this means the damper has slipped or moved or whatever.
I assume this means the damper has slipped or moved or whatever.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 772
Likes: 6
From: Huntsville AL
What is the secret to removal. I had to pull the pulley off the water pump to get down in there to even turn the engine over.
Is there a easy way to remove the pulley bolts and get this thing off and the new one on.
Do I need to be at TDC to install the new one or will it only fit one way (keyed).
Never done this before. Looks like I can get a new one for around $50.00 at the local parts stores. May try it tomorrow.
Is there a easy way to remove the pulley bolts and get this thing off and the new one on.
Do I need to be at TDC to install the new one or will it only fit one way (keyed).
Never done this before. Looks like I can get a new one for around $50.00 at the local parts stores. May try it tomorrow.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by thomastl
What is the secret to removal. I had to pull the pulley off the water pump to get down in there to even turn the engine over.
Is there a easy way to remove the pulley bolts and get this thing off and the new one on.
Do I need to be at TDC to install the new one or will it only fit one way (keyed).
Never done this before. Looks like I can get a new one for around $50.00 at the local parts stores. May try it tomorrow.
Is there a easy way to remove the pulley bolts and get this thing off and the new one on.
Do I need to be at TDC to install the new one or will it only fit one way (keyed).
Never done this before. Looks like I can get a new one for around $50.00 at the local parts stores. May try it tomorrow.
RACE ON!!!
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 772
Likes: 6
From: Huntsville AL
Replaced the damper. What a job. Had bolts stuck and the puller finally figured out how to snake then main bolt thru the steering line.
Anyway - the old one was about 170 degrees out of phase.
New one showed timing set at 3 degrees. I bumped it to 10 degrees. Seems to have a little stutter at about 1100 rpms easing along in traffic. Don't have the original emissions label. I set it to 10 based on what people here were saying. I think 8 is stock if I read the other posts right.
Please let me know what it should be set to that would give me the best gas mileage running 87 octane fuel. I use it as a daily driver and am not trying to race anyone.
Thanks,
Tony
Anyway - the old one was about 170 degrees out of phase.
New one showed timing set at 3 degrees. I bumped it to 10 degrees. Seems to have a little stutter at about 1100 rpms easing along in traffic. Don't have the original emissions label. I set it to 10 based on what people here were saying. I think 8 is stock if I read the other posts right.
Please let me know what it should be set to that would give me the best gas mileage running 87 octane fuel. I use it as a daily driver and am not trying to race anyone.
Thanks,
Tony
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by thomastl
Oh yea. For your info - If you don't connect the mass air flow sensor back up - the check engine light will come on. Just thought you might like to know that. 
The stock, spec, timing for all C4s on which the timing can be set, is 6° BTDC, with the EST wire disconnected. The best performance and mileage will come with the timing advanced as far as possible without picking up spark knock or knock counts. I run 85 octane gasoline with 14° base timing.
RACE ON!!!