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Im doing the install on my hooker shorties. '92 coupe, P engine LT1. And the EGR Valve on the passenger side dosent match up with the new hooker.
On the drivers side is a rubber hose and will move, but the one on the pass side is solid metal.
Anyone been through this?
What to do?????
Im not sure if you can get the egr tyube to fit up without cutting and rewelding it back together. I installed my shorties about 3 weeks ago and I had to cut out about 3/4 of an inch to get the pipe to fit up. actualy as I remember it its in the instructions that you have to cut and reweld the pipe. its not to big of pain just cut it and mark it so the fitting still points in the right direction.
Yep, take the AIR pipe to a precisson welder and have him cut out 1" from the pipe and reweld it back up maintaining the same alignment. Also, with a little grinding, you can use all your brackets off the A/C and alt mountings. One other tip, I used 1" header bolts with allen socket heads made out of S/S. Much easier to torque.
Don't waste your money on the welder. As I said earlier, unbolt the airtube from the back of the header, and push it toward the firewall. Then screw the airtube to the header.
How about some dyno numbers posted if your going to do so. Lots of talk on the shorties here at the forum. Some DIS them and others claim their fine (7-9 RWHP & TQ) for what they offer to those of us in SMOG burdened states....but numbers help us all.
Thanks STL94LT1, took some prying with the crowbar but it matches up fine now. Saved me $40.
Glad you got it connected. I'm just not a fan of that kind of maintenance/fabrication. Usually you can tell if it's been treated like that. Anyway, glad you didn't kink it or worse, break it.
I have no baseline dyno to go from, but plan on putting it on the dyno after all is finished. I usally use the "butt o meter", I find it gives the best refrence when measuring increase in power.