I have a 1987 coupe with automatic trans. I'm experiencing a problem with it not starting - turn the key, dash lights up radio plays, etc, turn the key and no response from the starter. The current suspects are VATS and the Neutral Safty Switch.
I was wondering if anyone has had any experience replacing the Neutral Safty Switch?
Thank you

 

I've had the center console out but have not messed with the N safety swtich. If you suspect it you might try wiggling the shifter in P as you try to start the car.

For the VATS key issue you can measure the resistance of the chip in the key, open the small connector at the bottom of the steering column, insert the appropriate 1/4 watt resistor and try to start the car.

 

Your problems are in the VATS circuit. When it won't crank: First try your spare ignition key as its pellet is not worn like your everyday key. Next, jump the gear selector switch (try wiggling the gear selector when in crank position, this confirms the gear selector switch problems).
Jump 12v to the purple wire on the gear selector switch, this will force the starter to crank as this wire goes to the starter solenoid on the starter. Remove the hush panel above the drivers feet and locate the 2 wires from the steering column that go to a 2 pin connector. Unplug the connector, insert key into the ignition and measure the resistance across the wires from the column. It should measure the same as the pellet. If over 13k ohms, you need a new ignition tumbler which has a better designed contacts that make with the pellet. You can temporarily bypass VATS by clipping a fixed resistor the same value as the pellet across the two wires that go into the harness (these go to the VATS module). You can use a 1/4 watt or larger 5% resistor from Radio Shack. Don't permanently bypass VATS because 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition.
If you still have problems, it is possible that the start enable relay or its contacts are defective, the ignition switch is defective, or the several connectors the start circuit current must go through to get to the starter solenoid.

 

Thank you to both 65Z01 and jfb for their responses.
When this first happened, I did the obvious of shifting in and out of park and neutral to try and start the car, but that didn't help. I also locked and unlocked several times and pulled out the fuse for VATS, still nothing. At that point I called AAA.
As I have a lack of proper tools - such as an ohm meter right now - I will be taking my keys to the local Chevy dealer to get the chip measured.
I was planning to order one of the "plug and play" bypass kits as that is not a permanent change to VATS, then go from there. I'll also give the "jumper" on the gear selector switch a try and see what happens.

 

The neutral safety switch almost never fails.

 

Well, I'm back!
I had the key checked and got the number and then ordered the VATS bypass.
I installed the bypass this morning and it still doesn't start. All I get when I turn rhe key to the start position is the click from the A/C clutch.
I'm leaning toward the neutral safety switch or the starter now.
However, there is one other symptom that I did not mention in my original post as I was not sure it was relevant;
I had been getting a very intermittant Check Engine Light which was posting a code 34 (MAF High Voltage).
Is there anything here between the MAF and the relays that would cause a totaly dead no start condition?