I'm putting long tubes on my 85, I need to get a heated O2 sensor. What application do I ask for?

 

I am (was?) working toward an answer to the same question.
If you are close to a Pep Boys or Autozone then the info in the
tech tip in this post should help you.

Presently, I have a Universal fit from NAPA, they show it as an
NGK 24700. (BTW - the box is labled NTK, not NGK.) However, I have
since come across information that suggests the 24700 is intended
for placement after the cat and a 23700 is for placement ahead of
the cat. I will be picking up the 23700 shortly and will be in a better
position to comment tomorrow (the 24700 is at the shop).

[Edit: The info above is incorrect. See my post further down]

This may all be unnecessary. I just discovered that Doctor J posted
two links in answer to a cross-post I made recently.

He writes:
.

 

Thanks Slalom4me, I found your other thread in a search, I checked at NAPA on the Bosch unit you listed in the thread then I came home and found a Borg Warner 3 wire universal on ebay for a lot less. If it had been any name I didn't recognize I would have passed on it but I thought I'd take a chance. Thanks for your response.

 

I didn't eBay but I did find several on-line O2 vendors.

Prices from these outfits are good. But I cannot wait
for delivery, I need to have a tailor-made solution that
I can implement right away in case the '89 OEM sensor
doesn't light off appropriately when I start driving tomorrow.

Glad you found something that works for you. You might
want to think about posting the Borg Warner p/n# - could
help someone else here later.

Regards

.

 

you can use bosch#13077 from autozone,about $49,thats the one i run in my 85.

 

Slalom4me, I'll post the part number as soon as I get the sensor, that's a good idea, it might save somebody the trouble you and I have been through.

 

Hey midnight, I had to add the heated o2 to my 85 also, and with the 160 therm & the EM longtubes coated in & out, I'm still getting a code 13 on the eway. I followed the instructions on the tech tips page, and I also went through the shop manual flow chart to make sure I didn't have any faulty parts. I added LTRs and siamesed the stock manifold 5/8" since the heated o2 and headers, and I have an Ed Wright chip in it, so I'm going to send the chip back out to have it retuned and see if that makes any difference. My car is not going into (or moves out of )closed loop on the eway, but it does with normal city/suburban driving. With the proper connectors and tools it was easy.

 

I'm hoping I won't have any issues with this project but you know how that goes.

 

I have fitted a Bosch 3 wire to mine dont know teh part no right now but have had no problems with the fitment





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vettenut85, jmrl98 and adi4

Where did you choose to tap into to power the heaters
for the O2 sensor? Did you include a fuse in the circuit?
How about heat shielding for the wires (ThermalTec)?

As a tip to others, I am going to clip the connector off
an old 1-wire O2 sensor and add this to the chassis-side
of the new universal connector. It will look like a pig-tail
and the reason is that this way I can retain the original
connector on the original OEM chassis-side harness.

** ================================= **
Also: FYI

I located an NGK/NTK catalog. The third party information
I mentioned higher up in this thread about the 24700 and
23700 IS INCORRECT.

The catalog confirms that the 24700 is the correct number
for a Universal 4-wire mounted in front of the cat.

It also lists a 21026 as a Universal 3-wire mounted in front
of the cat. (This number is also spec'd for a '95 S10, so presumably
it is a Universal equivalent to the Delco AFS-74 mentioned elsewhere.)
The fourth wire (grey) is an ('optional' per NTK) isolated ground for
the sensor wire (as opposed to the heater). Because I do
not know whether the factory ran this isolated sensor gound back
to the ECM or simply straight to a good ground, I elected to go
with the 3-wire for my '89.

The two white wires are for the heater circuit. NTK says there
is no polarity to the heater and so the choice of which white wire
goes to (+) and which goes to (-) does not matter.

The black wire is the sensor output, it connects to the conductor
for the OEM 1-wire. As mentioned above, I am going to retain the
connector on the chassis-side of the harness.

I WILL NOT be soldering any connections on the Universal harness.
I will use the crimp-style connectors provided with the sensor. I
read that the outer insulation of the harness plays a role and that
this role could be compromised by heat from soldering.

.

 

I will not be doing mine until sometime in mid-winter but I am going to use a weatherpak connector and since the sensor has to go on the outside of the collector I will defintely be using some type of insulation. In fact I'm going to insulate all the wires around the headers such as starter, O2 sensor etc. I'm watching for advice as to where to find the keyed 12 volt source. It can't be hard to find but any time saved is appreciated.

 

You may also want to take a look at the hose from the oil cooler
(sandwiched between the filter and the block) to the block.

One of my primaries was closer than I was comfortable with. The
molded hose was disconnected at the block and trimmed 1/2" to
pull it closer to the block. Then before reinstalling it, a piece of
p/n #14010 (5/8-1") Thermo-Sleeve from 'Cool It Thermo Tec'
was slipped over the length of hose.

If you are particular and have time to source it, you also want
to obtain 'Extreme' wire from Painless. I bought a lot of
this from them through Jeg's last year for another project. I tried
many mail-order houses but despite listing it, nobody had much if
any in stock. Jeg's, bless their hearts, agreed to act as an
intermediary (I'd been working with Painless to find a co-operative
firm) and I got a lot of wire internationally drop-shipped to my door
by 10 the following day. Thank's again, Jeg's!).

They claim it is good above 275º. I took a propane torch and first
held up a piece of conventional wire - the insulation ran off like butter.
Then came the Extreme wire - the insulation withstood placement
down into the inner flame cone. It blackened but held for some time.
Eventually the insulation began to flake off from the jet pressure
of the flame - a far different story than that of the conventional wire.

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