changing plug wires with limitations - tips?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 758
Likes: 6
From: Gainesville, FL
changing plug wires with limitations - tips?
I've now received my new plug wires that I plan to install tomorrow on my 95 LT1. I've recently moved to college and don't have my father's large shop anymore. So I am left to buying some tools to to get this job done. I removed the ASR when I did the plugs and that seems obvious for the wires - but is it possible to only remove the ASR and get this job done? I just hate to start removing large/complex things and getting stuck with not having the tools for unforseen problems... - To clarify - I am not asking for ALL the possible tips on getting them done, as I have seen plenty of those forums - I just want to know what is the minimum I can get by with - The wires are 8mm Taylor Spiro Pros. (I plan to use wire separators so using the stock looms isn't necessary)
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 7,362
Likes: 2,282
From: Central Maryland
Remove the inner fenderwell panel on the driver's side. It may also help to remove the passenger's side, but I didn't.
You don't need to fully remove the ASR, but it is helpful to be able to push it around a bit to get it out of the way, so unbolt its mounting brackets from the chassis.
Unbolt, but do not remove the power steering pump. Leave the hoses connected to it. You'll find it helpful to be able to move it around 1/2 inch forward to allow you to sneak the wires in/out behind the pump.
Get the belt tensioner out of your way, too.
You'll also find it helpful to get the front end of the car a foot or two in the air. Saves your back from having to bend over so far, and helps you to see what you're doing. Some have suggested that you can access the wires at the Opti from underneath, but I did mine from above.
Be well,
SJW
You don't need to fully remove the ASR, but it is helpful to be able to push it around a bit to get it out of the way, so unbolt its mounting brackets from the chassis.
Unbolt, but do not remove the power steering pump. Leave the hoses connected to it. You'll find it helpful to be able to move it around 1/2 inch forward to allow you to sneak the wires in/out behind the pump.
Get the belt tensioner out of your way, too.
You'll also find it helpful to get the front end of the car a foot or two in the air. Saves your back from having to bend over so far, and helps you to see what you're doing. Some have suggested that you can access the wires at the Opti from underneath, but I did mine from above.
Be well,
SJW
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 758
Likes: 6
From: Gainesville, FL
well - I have no way of getting the car in the air at all - If I did buy a jack and stands - then I'd have a problem with the apartment here (they don't want people using the parking lot as a garage - but having the hood open as I had for the plugs shouldn't be a problem) .... And are all those other things "necessary"? - And what tools will I need to buy to remove those things - As I've done the ASR before, I know that it is just 10mm bolts for the mounting brackets. Thanks for your input.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 7,362
Likes: 2,282
From: Central Maryland
Okay, I see more clearly now where you're heading with this.
I don't recall all of the bolt head sizes, but if you have a decent set of sockets and wrenches, you'll probably be all set.
IIRC, the inner fender panels can be removed with a 10mm, the PS pump with 12/13/15mm, and the tensioner is probably 14/15/17mm, or something thereabouts.
I found it absolutely necessary to be able to move the PS pump forward about a half inch in order to be able to get the wires in/out behind it on my '94. YMMV.
I can't recall whether or not it's absolutely necessary to remove the tensioner. I already had mine off (I did my wires/plugs while I already had things pulled down to do an Opti/water pump swap).
Swapping the wires on the passenger's side isn't such a bad job. On the driver's side, however, it's a royal beeyotch.
Plan to consume lots of beer and Band-Aids, and to cuss a lot. Be patient, take your time, don't force anything, and pay attention to what you're doing. Keep the new wires clear of anything that's sharp, moves, or gets hot. Use dielectric grease on the boots, and be sure to burp the air out of each boot so that the trapped air pressure doesn't try to push the wire back off later.
Be well,
SJW
I don't recall all of the bolt head sizes, but if you have a decent set of sockets and wrenches, you'll probably be all set.
IIRC, the inner fender panels can be removed with a 10mm, the PS pump with 12/13/15mm, and the tensioner is probably 14/15/17mm, or something thereabouts.
I found it absolutely necessary to be able to move the PS pump forward about a half inch in order to be able to get the wires in/out behind it on my '94. YMMV.
I can't recall whether or not it's absolutely necessary to remove the tensioner. I already had mine off (I did my wires/plugs while I already had things pulled down to do an Opti/water pump swap).
Swapping the wires on the passenger's side isn't such a bad job. On the driver's side, however, it's a royal beeyotch.
Plan to consume lots of beer and Band-Aids, and to cuss a lot. Be patient, take your time, don't force anything, and pay attention to what you're doing. Keep the new wires clear of anything that's sharp, moves, or gets hot. Use dielectric grease on the boots, and be sure to burp the air out of each boot so that the trapped air pressure doesn't try to push the wire back off later.
Be well,
SJW
Last edited by SJW; Sep 22, 2005 at 04:40 PM.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 482
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington NC
I just did this job-do the passenger side first while your attitude is still good. The driver's side will make you more than a little upset.
SJW is right on with his tips, they worked well for me. But after all I did I still have a miss, so I guess the Opti is next
.
SJW is right on with his tips, they worked well for me. But after all I did I still have a miss, so I guess the Opti is next
.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 758
Likes: 6
From: Gainesville, FL
Yeah - I'm hoping its not an opti problem for me (too much of a pain to do here) - I just did the plugs - it ran great afterwards- then several days later it seems like a whole cylinder went out - So I'm hoping something just got broken with the stock plug wires when I changed the plugs (though wires should be changed anyway).
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 7,362
Likes: 2,282
From: Central Maryland
Originally Posted by 4REGT4
Yeah - I'm hoping its not an opti problem for me (too much of a pain to do here) - I just did the plugs - it ran great afterwards- then several days later it seems like a whole cylinder went out - So I'm hoping something just got broken with the stock plug wires when I changed the plugs (though wires should be changed anyway).
Check to see if one of your plug wires has backed off, either partially or fully, from one of the newly-installed plugs. I'd lay at least 50-50 odds this has happened, considering you had only recently changed the plugs.
If this has not happened, consider checking the plugs to see if one has developed a crack or broken electrode, etc.
Be well,
SJW
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski