speedbleeder
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speedbleeder
I used the speedbleeder in my 95 VR4 in the past with no problems so assumed there would be no problems with my 95 vett. It was not so. From some reason they would not seat and except for one they all leaked. I did set them to torque specs. I had to put the old ones back and no problem. I did go the speedbleeder.com for these and the designated part number was SB1010 but perhaps this should have been SB1010SS. Anybody have issue with these speedbleeders. Thank you
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,490
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From: Hewitt NJ
I've had them on my car for over a year with no problems. I think the difference in the part numbers that you listed is that one appears to be stainless steel while the other one is not. By the way I went with the stainless steel ones. They were more money, but I figured they would last I wouldn't have to worry about corrosion.
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,581
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From: The Motor City
Have them on '89 now for about two months, and everything is great. I also got the SB1010SS (stainless steel) version, primarily for the corrosion resistance factor.
I think you may have just gotten a set that wasn't machined properly. You may want to either send the company a quick email or call them and let them know what's happened. They seem like stand-up people - I'm sure they will rectify the situation.
Good luck with it.
I think you may have just gotten a set that wasn't machined properly. You may want to either send the company a quick email or call them and let them know what's happened. They seem like stand-up people - I'm sure they will rectify the situation.
Good luck with it.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 22,209
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From: OBAMA IS HITLER
i might get these as well. is the thread sealant necessary? $10 for alot of that stuff appears to be overkill. In fact, the idea of using sealant at all sounds a bit scary. Anyone use that sealant?
Last edited by Red Tornado; Sep 27, 2005 at 11:08 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 993
Likes: 4
From: Glen Burnie MD
They come with sealant to begin with; you only need to add more if you loosen them a lot.
I had to torque them down tighter (not much) than recommended spec because I had small leaks, but otherwise they work great.
[RICHR]
I had to torque them down tighter (not much) than recommended spec because I had small leaks, but otherwise they work great.
[RICHR]
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Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,490
Likes: 68
From: Hewitt NJ
Originally Posted by Hot Rod 90
i might get these as well. is the thread sealant necessary? $10 for alot of that stuff appears to be overkill. In fact, the idea of using sealant at all sounds a bit scary. Anyone use that sealant?
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 22,209
Likes: 12
From: OBAMA IS HITLER
thanks guys. $60 (ss) seems like a productive investment, i'm enamored with the prospect of a one-man operation, with such ease, which will entice me to bleed them once a year for good maintenance practices 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,490
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From: Oviedo FL
I have been told to remove the sealant on them and replace with the white teflon tape. I say this because I am getting ready to install mine on the Wilwoods. Can anyone remark on that?
Thanks,
Mike
Thanks,
Mike
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,581
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From: The Motor City
Originally Posted by luvmy92
I have been told to remove the sealant on them and replace with the white teflon tape. I say this because I am getting ready to install mine on the Wilwoods. Can anyone remark on that?
Thanks,
Mike
Thanks,
Mike
IMHO, I wouldn't bother with the teflon tape. But I would spend the money and get the stainless steel versions - especially on an expesive set of Wilwood calipers!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,490
Likes: 2
From: Oviedo FL
Originally Posted by TheCorvetteKid
Never heard that one before. The ones from Speedbleeder.com come with the proper amount of sealant already on the threads. I've heard that the less-expensive Russell versions actually come with TOO much thread sealant on them.
IMHO, I wouldn't bother with the teflon tape. But I would spend the money and get the stainless steel versions - especially on an expesive set of Wilwood calipers!
IMHO, I wouldn't bother with the teflon tape. But I would spend the money and get the stainless steel versions - especially on an expesive set of Wilwood calipers!
The Wilwoods have 2 bleed screws per caliper, so it's double, which sucks! Looking forward to getting them on and trying them out tho. I will just leave 'em alone and install them as advertised.
Thanks for the reply.
Mike
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
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From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Mine would not seat because of the excessive sealant. The sealant also would flake off and get into the caliper and into the bleed port.
That sealant does do anything to seal the brake system, it's only intended to prevent air from being drawn in during bleeding.
I removed all the sealant with a thread die, and used teflon tape instead. Works great, no more fighting the bleeders.
That sealant does do anything to seal the brake system, it's only intended to prevent air from being drawn in during bleeding.
I removed all the sealant with a thread die, and used teflon tape instead. Works great, no more fighting the bleeders.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Originally Posted by luvmy92
Yep! Got the SS ones... cost $120 for 8 of 'em. The Wilwoods have 2 bleed screws per caliper, so it's double, which sucks!
The Wilwoods have 2 bleed screws per caliper, so it's double, which sucks!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,490
Likes: 2
From: Oviedo FL
Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
I removed all the sealant with a thread die, and used teflon tape instead. Works great, no more fighting the bleeders.
Mike
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,490
Likes: 2
From: Oviedo FL
Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
You'll notice when bleeding the Wilwoods, that the inner caliper half moves more fluid, and doesn't let the outer one bleed well, so bleed with both open, then close the inner one, and bleed some more. Although it's not necessary with speedbleeders, I hooked up hoses and ran them up then back down to a bottle, so I could see the air bubbles from inside the car, didn't want to waste my wilwood brake fluid.
The first go round I will be doing a complete flush from ATE blue to ATE gold.
Mike