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Decisions are made, parts are on order, now it's time to do the work.
Anyone have tips on how to pull the motor on a '93 LT1 6-speed?
There is so friggin' little clearance in the front, even with all of the accessories off, it doesn't look like I get it forward enough to disengage it from the trans.
I doubt I can get it high enough without a hoist to pull them both out through the front (by angling the trans downward underneath)
Can I unbolt the trans and shift it back some to get clearance to separate the two?
Your advice based on experience would be fantastic.
TIA!
Last edited by ScaryFast; Sep 28, 2005 at 10:36 PM.
If it's a manual, you have to remove the tranny first. It's just so much easier.
With an auto, all you need is ~1.5" to 2" of forward and up to get it apart. Now, a tranny jack will make this a lot easier... but it's not bad at all.
Yes, the transmission needs to be removed or moved back a good 4 inches (not possible with shifter and C beam on the car). Then you still need to pull the engine more towards the front so the *** end tilts down. It can be done with the balancer and flywheel on the engine, but it is tight. I recommend dropping the trans and pulling the clutch and pressure plate, since the motor will have to go back in the same way. Once it is raised up a little, you may want to remove the balancer/pulley if it is going to be too tight, depending on where you position your engine hoist. The good news is you don't have to remove the hood if you come in from the side.
Decisions are made, parts are on order, now it's time to do the work.
Anyone have tips on how to pull the motor on a '93 LT1?
There is so friggin' little clearance in the front, even with all of the accessories off, it doesn't look like I get it forward enough to disengage it from the trans.
I doubt I can get it high enough without a hoist to pull them both out through the front (by angling the trans downward underneath)
Can I unbolt the trans and shift it back some to get clearance to separate the two?
Your advice based on experience would be fantastic.
TIA!
hey ,
i live in canton , thats about 20 min from novi. i can stop by and help you out if you need it, i can also bring few corvette friends we can have the motor out in few hours i also got a 10 sec lt4 motor for sale ready to go
Yes, the transmission needs to be removed or moved .
I disagree,
I have pulled the motor several times in both my 94 6 speed and my 84 auto and have yet to drop the trany and it has never been the slightest problem.
For the 6 speed leave the belll housing on the motor and unbolt the trany (Support trany with a jack)
Awesome. I had heard you can shift the tranny back and leave it under the car.
Balancer and all accessories are coming off to swap onto the new motor so I'll take most of them off while on the car to make the block easier to get out.
I have a better idea, I'll supervise and supply brew and you guys stop by and pull the motor.
i live in canton , thats about 20 min from novi. i can stop by and help you out if you need it, i can also bring few corvette friends we can have the motor out in few hours i also got a 10 sec lt4 motor for sale ready to go
Awesome. I had heard you can shift the tranny back and leave it under the car.
I have a better idea, I'll supervise and supply brew and you guys stop by and pull the motor.
No need to pull the trany back just place a jack under it and thats it. If you where local i would be more then happy to help but Mi. is just a little to far of a trip from Charleston. The front of the motor is the real PITA, BTW one tip is unbolt the A/C comp and leave it on the car with the lines connected. I have never recharged my A/C and see a common mistake is some disconnect the A/C lines. THe radiator can stay as well the only reason i pulled it last time was for the instalation of the B-cool but the first time it stayed in place
I pulled my accessories off for the most part, but left the radiator in. I did pull the fans. I ended up taking the pulley off the balancer and inching it forward enough to get it out with the bellhousing still on it. I had the jack the 6 speed up to the bottom of the floor to give it enough angle to get loose. I felt that this was pretty hard on the input shaft and I think I'll probably take the c beam and driveshaft loose and pull the tranny back a bit before I try to reinstall the engine. This is partially because of the "clutch alignment tool" type issues I have trying to get the input shaft to re-engage.
Mine should be going back together within a month. I'll have my new engine assembled by late next week.
No need to pull the trany back just place a jack under it and thats it. If you where local i would be more then happy to help but Mi. is just a little to far of a trip from Charleston. The front of the motor is the real PITA, BTW one tip is unbolt the A/C comp and leave it on the car with the lines connected. I have never recharged my A/C and see a common mistake is some disconnect the A/C lines. THe radiator can stay as well the only reason i pulled it last time was for the instalation of the B-cool but the first time it stayed in place
Lucky for me I have no AC...one problem down, 100 more to go.
I'm not too worried about taking off the balancer. Not only is it easy now since I just did an opti two months ago, but it has to come off to go on the new block.
FD2BLK, just leave now. You should be here by Saturday.