C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

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Old Oct 4, 2005 | 10:13 PM
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What brand do you recommend, and where can you find the best price? How about the kit from Eckler's? I comes with both upper and both lower ball joints, both outer tie rod ends, and all hardware, for only $139.95. Is there a big difference between this kit and the $80 a piece ball joints? Thanks.
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Old Oct 4, 2005 | 11:02 PM
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I need to know ( 94 vette) also!
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Old Oct 4, 2005 | 11:23 PM
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Yeah but that kit does not come with new upper and lower control arm bushing, which you might as well replace if your going to have it all apart anyway. That's why that kit is that cheap.

About 2 years ago, I got the best price from PST at $269. Their kit comes with everything that kit has plus all the upper and lower control arm bushing as well as everything for the front sway bar. I believe they also have free shipping.

It depends if you want to replace the front bushings or not. I wanted to do it all at once so I went with this kit.

http://www.p-s-t.com/gm/gmfekpg.html#CHEVROLET

Be careful of their G-Max Sway bars though. I paid over $100 for a front one that never fit. The end links where the bolt hole go through where made at the wrong angle and would not fit my Vette. The bolt holes would not align to get the bolts through. They ignored my request for a refund via email.

Last edited by 86PACER; Oct 24, 2005 at 05:03 AM.
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 08:15 AM
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Moog was always my first preference for steering componants.

I believe NAPA used to carry the Moog lineup. If all you want are
the b-joints, it might not hurt to check with a local outlet and
compare their price against the landed price from a more distant
source.

.
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 86PACER
Yeah but that kit does not come with new upper and lower control arm bushing, which you might as well replace if your going to have it all apart anyway. That's why that kit is that cheap.
The control arm bushings are not a serviceable item, as per Chevrolet. Therefore they are not available as replacement parts from Chevrolet or any of the stock replacement parts sellers. PST, Energy Suspension, and others offer a variety of "poly-something" kits to up grade from the factory bushings. In order to replace the bushings with the factory style, you have to buy the control arm assemblies with the shafts and bushings installed.

I'm not familiar with the kit from Eckler's, but even if it is only the hard parts, as described, and even if only for one side, it sounds like a bargain.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
The control arm bushings are not a serviceable item, as per
Chevrolet. Therefore they are not available as replacement parts ...
So one replaces the complete control arm(s)

.
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
In order to replace the bushings with the factory style, you have to buy the control arm assemblies with the shafts and bushings installed.
True. But who would want to do that when you can just replace them with a stiffer and longer lasting bushing. Those things cost hundreds as complete units.

Last edited by 86PACER; Oct 24, 2005 at 05:01 AM.
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
The control arm bushings are not a serviceable item, as per Chevrolet.
Kinda like when the Haynes manual says that the CS-130 type alternator is not serviceable and needs to be replaced as a unit. Whatever. I rebuilt it myself in the garage with a $40 rebuild kit from the local parts store. Works better than it ever did stock.
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 11:52 PM
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What is wrong with the car? You could be changing parts for nothing if it's a daily driver. I have seen vette balljoints go 200K miles and still be servicable if they were properly greased. The lower balljoint has a wear indicator on where the grease fitting is if the sholder hasn't receeded up into the joint it is not worn out. The upper balljoints don't carry the load so they will last a long time. Most of them have the boots blown off by grease guns.
If the car is "darty" look at the outer tierods and the wheel bearings. They are a sealed unit, when they get worn out (about 100K miles and they are shot) the car will be all over the road, especially if the road is rutted up by trucks.
If you have bad balljoints you can change them yourself, AutoZone loans the tools and it isn't hard.
Get the parts locally. Eckler's just repack stuff mostly.

JS
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Old Oct 23, 2005 | 08:48 PM
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86Pacer, I think I have some input on your sway bar trouble. My front original sway bar doesn't fit for crap. The holes on the end link brackets are way off, by 1/4" at least. The angle is wrong, and moving the control arm up and down doesn't change this.

IMO, the design on the end links design is terrible, they bind, and the sway bars are probably hit and miss for the angle the end holes are cut in. To get mine on, I have to unbolt the center brackets, get the lower end of the links into the aluminum brackets, then only tighten down the nut on the inner part of the alum bracket. The outer part lifts up more than 1/4" at this point, and I can just barely get a nut on it to tighten it down. It's a total pain in the ***.
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
86Pacer, I think I have some input on your sway bar trouble. My front original sway bar doesn't fit for crap. The holes on the end link brackets are way off, by 1/4" at least. The angle is wrong, and moving the control arm up and down doesn't change this.

IMO, the design on the end links design is terrible, they bind, and the sway bars are probably hit and miss for the angle the end holes are cut in. To get mine on, I have to unbolt the center brackets, get the lower end of the links into the aluminum brackets, then only tighten down the nut on the inner part of the alum bracket. The outer part lifts up more than 1/4" at this point, and I can just barely get a nut on it to tighten it down. It's a total pain in the ***.
Kevin,
I too tried the control arm thing and did not help. I'll have to try your method since I've never tried it this way. Should it be done at normal ride height? Sent you a PM.

Last edited by 86PACER; Oct 24, 2005 at 12:43 AM.
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 04:32 AM
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Yes, this method works better at normal ride height because the control arms are at less of an angle. I've lost all faith in GM engineering, if there is such a thing.
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