I have a stock 91 coupe, went to start it a few months ago and when i turned the key the dash lights came on but it wouldnt start, no click, no dimming of the dash lights, nothing! Its like the switch is not sending a signal to the solenoid to do its thing. Let it sit for about 5 or 10 minutes and then it started like nothing was wrong. It has a new battery and clean cables. No probs for about a month, then it does it again. this time at a gas station after pumping gas. Nothing! again! Wait 10 minutes. cranks right up ..Hard to diagnose when you cant get it to do it in the garage where all your tools are. Its only done it about 4 times but its frustrating to have to wait for the 10 minutes to start it up. Tryed turning the key several times, didnt work. tryed turning the headlights on and trying it. Doesnt even dim them. Is this possably the ignition switch, the VATs, the starter solenoid, starter interupt relay? Oh yeah, tryed my other key also, still nothing. Has anyone else had this problem? Just looking for ideas. Hate replacing stuff that I dont need to.

 

I had the exact same problem with my 91, the key was worn to the point that the resistor gave the wrong reading. have a new ignition key made

 

same here,same yr. but with new switch and key

 

If you have tried your second key like you stated than my $ is on the starter solenoid. Mine did the same thing yours is doing for several months before it got progressively worse. I finally just bit the bullet and had the starter rebuilt by a good alternator/starter shop. No problems since.

 

May be starter soleniod. Try smacking the starter with a hammer next time it does it. If it starts up right after, then it's the starter solenoid. Only problem is getting to the starter to hit it with out jacking the car up. If it is the solenoid ,it will only get worse and leave you stranded at the worst possible time and /or place.

 

Thanks for all the input guys! Guess Ill take the starter off and have it rebuilt. Heard it was better to have your old one rebuilt then to get a replacement, a fit issue I guess. Ill let you all know if I find out anything new! Once again THANKS for you quick responses

 

Nothing wrong with suspecting the starter, but plenty with having it rebuilt without either testing it or having it inspected to see if there is anything wrong with it! Your symptoms also suggest you might have VATS problems. First try your spare key as its pellet contacts aren't worn like your everyday key. Keep in mind that when VATS doesn't read the correct pellet resistance it won't allow a crank for 6 minutes. Next, try jumping the clutch safety switch (gear selector switch if automatic) and trying a crank (when it won't crank). You can test the starter by jumping 12v to one of the wires on the clutch safety switch (purple on my 87, try both wires on the switch) which will make the starter crank. If the starter cranks by jumping the safety switch, then remove the hush panel above the drivers feet and find the 2 wires from the steering column from the ignition tumbler that goes to a 2 pin connector. Unplug the connector, insert the ignition switch and measure the resistance across the wires from the steering column. It should measure the same resistance as the pellet and if over 13k ohms, you need a new ignition tumbler which has new contacts the make connection to the pellet. You can temporarily bypass VATS by connecting a fixed resistor the same value as your pellet across the two wires that go into the wiring harness (these go to the VATS module). You can use a 1/4 watt or larger 5% resistor from Radio Shack. It is also possible that the start enable relay which is activated by VATS may be intermittent if you still cannot crank.
Do not permanently bypass VATS because 99% of car thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition.

 

Wow! I just got done posting a thread on the same exact problem! I didn't even think of the VATS!!!!
It pays to browse!

 

Well it did it to me again this morning. Went to start my car and nothing. Waited 6 minutes almost to the second and it fired right up. Before.... I had tryed my other key, with no luck, but if the VATS disables the starter, the other key wouldnt make a difference would it? Thats why I didnt think it was the VATS . But after reading jfbs post its all starting make sense( pun intended) Should I just replace the key i normally use, make a trip to radio shack or I read some where that I can get a newer style tumbler and keys with better contacts(think it was a service bulletin) and not have to bypass my VATS? Thanks to all that replyed

 

ya know - i just had the same problem on my 92 - and the first thing i thought was the resistors on the key are bad or something.

my next thought was that the neutral safety switch is bad - so, here i am at home, and my broke a$$ car is sitting a couple milels away in the grocery store parking lot - so off i go to try a new key!

\FYI - found a decent write up on the subject by searching google

http://www.motorage.com/motorage/dat...09/article.pdf

here is what the helms manual for the 1992 says about the pass key timeout
hopefully i don't have to change a neurtral safety switch on my car in teh grocery store parking lot! i hope it's as easy as a different key!

i will report back with my findings as well as some of the others who have posted!

 

imagine that - it WAS the key - no previous signs of anything problematic but low and behold, the new key i have worked just fine!

thanks for all who posted in this thread - it helped me a LOT!