Someone must have tracked down this Climate Control problem!
The following describes my experience with temperature adjust buttons (and other buttons) on the Climate Control on my 96 LT4:
Your description of UP button working sometimes and DOWN button working other times (as well as intermittent operation of other buttons) is identical to my experience. It appears to change from one set of working buttons to a different set of working buttons when the ignition is turned off and back on. Occasionally all buttons work fine. These changing symtoms seem to indicate that the problem is not in the front panel, but rather in a connection or possibly in a solid state component (perhaps a timing issue) on the circuit board inside the control box. Cleaning the front panel contacts may disturb a bad connection sufficiently to make contact again and cause all buttons to work (at least temporarily).
I would love to know if anyone has tracked this rather unique problem to the source. It would sure save me the headache of trying to track it down.
The following describes my experience with temperature adjust buttons (and other buttons) on the Climate Control on my 96 LT4:
Your description of UP button working sometimes and DOWN button working other times (as well as intermittent operation of other buttons) is identical to my experience. It appears to change from one set of working buttons to a different set of working buttons when the ignition is turned off and back on. Occasionally all buttons work fine. These changing symtoms seem to indicate that the problem is not in the front panel, but rather in a connection or possibly in a solid state component (perhaps a timing issue) on the circuit board inside the control box. Cleaning the front panel contacts may disturb a bad connection sufficiently to make contact again and cause all buttons to work (at least temporarily).
I would love to know if anyone has tracked this rather unique problem to the source. It would sure save me the headache of trying to track it down.
I guess I will have to dig a bit deeper (find the 'other module inside', etc.).
I'll let y'all know when I find the source of the problem.


Basically, just remove the control head, gently take the front panel off. You will find a rubber membrane with carbon 'buttons' on the backside which contact the circuit board behind. Clean the carbon buttons (e.g. alcohol) and the circuit board contact points (pencil eraser) and reassemble. Has worked flawlessly since done 2 years ago.
Hope this helps.
John
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts


I understand your frustration and sympathize with your desire to find the source of the 'problem'
.Albeit electronics are unavoidable, an automobile environment is definetly not the best place for them and can cause odd problems.
However, the 'control head' is not just a set of switches, it is actually a small computer in its own right.
The connection to the 'programmer' mentioned by 'LTjuan' is only via 3 wires, an '8' volt reference and 2 'data' lines. It's the 'programmer' which does all the actual work of switching the fan speeds, air direction, etc.
Therefore, if the control head 'computer' doesn't get correct 'instructions' from the buttons via an albeit momentary, but consistent voltage and not incorrect/confused voltage signals due to dirt, it cannot send the correct 'data' to the 'programmer'. It might also mis-interpret the voltage signals and cause the 'reversing' symptom described by many.
Perhaps you have heard of the computer adage 'GIGO', garbage in, garbage out. It unfortunately applies here too (i.e. if the 'control head' feeds garbage to the 'programmer', well then...).
Lastly, I only cleaned the 'control head' rubber buttons/circuit board, and whereas before, I couldn't select 'auto', could only go up on fan speed and not down, and temp set didn't want to go down, it has continued to work FLAWLESSLY now for 2 years after the cleaning
.Hope this helps..
I am quite familiar with the membrane switches behind the front panel since this is the first thing that I took apart when looking for obvious reasons for the failure. I was really expecting to find a cold solder joint or something similar that would explain the failure of a certain set of buttons one time and an entirely different (yet consistent) set of buttons another time. Generally, on this type of input several buttons will share a common circuit (multiplexed) so that a cold solder joint or bad connector joint will affect a certain set of buttons... But I found nothing obvious.
I will certainly try the time tested "eraser trick", but I'm wondering if the real culprit may be in the many pronged connector between the front button assembly and the circuit board. Here's why: It now appears that all buttons are working normally (at least for the moment!) after taking this apart and putting it back together. One possible explanation: The circuit baord is fastened to the back of the "control head" cover by two screws. I wonder if the wide fluctuations in temperature that typically occur in the dash environment might cause some slight expansion/contraction of the cover, thereby causing movement (or flexing) of the connector to the front panel. Perhaps over time, the desired "air tight" metal to metal contact between pin and connector is disrupted (it wouldn't take much) on at least one of these pins.
Oh, well... I guess I'll know in another week or so if buttons continue to work. If so, I'll take it apart again and give both membrane switches AND the connector & pins a proper cleaning!
Regarding the behind the dash "programmer", all system outputs (fan, heat, AC) seem to function and control properly, so I think I'm OK here...
Thanks again for the good advice!
Wipe the trace with alcohol and a cloth. The gold plating does not oxidize or corrode and the plating is extremely thin and an eraser can remove the gold leaving copper. Now if you want constant trouble with a circuit board connection, remove the gold plating !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If it fails again, I will take it apart and give it a proper cleaning!
















