After a code 36 that won't reset, and just rolling over 100K on my 93, I decided to bite the bullet and change the opti and water pump. I pulled the cowling cover and radiator. It needed to be cleaned anyway. There sure ain't much room to work! You guys and gals who've done this before, what else do you take off to obtain access? Any pointers appreciated. Thanks!

 

not much to it. repair books help alot. take your time and have fun. i did mine not too long ago...
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<------see my pictures for some visuals

 

You didn't need to remove the radiator or shroud.
Take the belt off.
Remove the air intake hose.
Unplug the coolant temp sensor connector on the water pump.
Take the 3 bolts out of the crank pulley and tap it off (it may be stuck on there)
Drain the coolant.
Remove upper, lower, and heater hoses attached to water pump.
Remove 6 bolts holding on water pump and gently pry it off.
Remove plug wires and coil wire from opti.
Remove 3 bolts holding opti to timing cover, and pull it off.
Don't lose the splined opti drive shaft or the water pump drive shaft, you will need these
Installation is pretty much reverse, let me know if you have any questions once you get into it.

Take your time and have fun!

Darren

 

This will also be the best chance you'll have to replace the plug wires and any cooling system hoses that have any age on them.

Plug wires on the driver's side are a real PITA, but better done when you're already this deep into it. If you do them, unbolt the ASR module from the frame so that you can shift it around to get it out of your way as you work. Remove the inner wheelhouse panels to gain more access and visibility. Unbolt the power steering pump (but do not disconnect the hoses) so that you can move it forward around a half inch so that you can sneak the plug wires in/out behind it. Be sure to route the new plug wires so that they remain clear of anything that gets hot, is sharp, or moves.

Remember to bleed the air out of the cooling system as you're refilling it, or you'll have trapped air in the heads and they'll get hotter than a 3-dollar pistol. There should be a bleeder screw on the throttle body and another one on the thermostat housing. Open both 'til you get no more air bubbles out of them. If you install a new OEM opti, make sure no coolant drips down onto the opti as you're doing this. Consider installing a DynaSpark rather than OEM opti so that you don't have this worry.

While doing all of this, it helps to raise the front of the car to a more comfortable working height.

To get the damper off, remove the three bolts and tap it off from below/behind. I use a long pry bar (jumbo Snap-On screwdriver) with the tip placed against the back of the damper as far inboard as possible (place the tip so that it's resting right alongside of the damper hub -- don't beat on the outer ring of the damper!), then bump the handle of the pry bar with a large rubber mallet. It may be a bit stubborn, but you should be able to get it to pop off this way. Once it's off, rotate the crankshaft so that one wing of the 3-winged damper hub is at the 6-O'Clock position (this will orient the other two wings at around 10 and 2 O'Clock), and it will give you the clearance you'll need to pull the Opti straight forward off of the engine. Clean the hub and damper thoroughly of all rust, etc, and smear a VERY thin coat of anti-sieze on the mating surfaces as you reinstall it (not enough that it'll get slung up onto the belt, etc), and you'll probably have no trouble getting it off again next time. Be sure to orient the damper to the hub such that the alignment marks match up as you reinstall it.

The Opti shaft and its coupler are keyed (look for the missing spline) so that it will only go on one way unless you really force it (don't). The Opti should pop in place against the timing cover very nicely if you have everything aligned correctly -- bump it somewhat gently with the heel of your hand if necessary to encourage it to pop into place. Do NOT hit it with a hammer or use the bolts to draw it up to the timing cover. Same goes for the water pump (but it's not keyed).

Be well,

SJW

 

The Hub may be the toughest part.I suggest all the time to soak it down really good with PB Blaster the night before.Remember to keep track and mark the wires for re-installation.Do not force the Opti in place it CAN be missinstalled.It should slide in easily if lined up correctly and make a pop sound as it hits the timing cover.I suggest putting it in and out twice just to be sure it slides in corectly.Now is the time to replace the seals too.Make sure to oil the seals for re-installation as dry seals can overheat and leak.

 

The water pump is no piece of cake either. Run the long bolts 1 or 2 threads thru the gasket to hold the gaskets in place while you wriggle the water pump in place. You'll can't see the driver side gasket to know whether it slipped during installation....until you refill with coolant.

 

I used Permatex on the gasket and let it set up before install.No problems here with it.

 

That's what I did the 1st time, but with all the wriggling trying to get the pump in there, the drivers side gasket shifted. Even probed to make sure the bolt holes were still clear. On 2nd attempt, noticed the bolt holes in the gasket were different sizes to hold the gasket in place during install.

 

Thanks for the tips. Work space is short. Did you guys remove the electric fans, or anything else for better access? I'd love to use a puller, but I don't think there's room. I've been needing to re-do the lines from the power steering pump to the cooler, Now I'll be able to get to them.
After this project, wheel bearings and ujoints.

 

Working space is definitely tight. I did not remove the fans or radiator on my '94. If I recall correctly, I did have to move the ignition coil a bit, but you may not need to. The water pump just barely cleared everything (in particular, the receiver/dryer for the A/C) going out and back in. If you're doing the plug wires, too, unbolt/remove/move the things I mentioned earlier.

Try knocking the damper off from below, as I outlined previously. I think you'll find that to be a good solution for you. It's worked well for me, and everyone else I've heard from who's tried it, and saves you from worrying about a puller. If you do attempt to use a puller, be VERY careful to ensure that the puller does not damage the threads in the snout of the crankshaft, or you'll have bigger woes.

You'll cuss a lot doing this job the first time, but it can be done. Be patient, hang in there, and walk away from it for a while if it gets the best of you. It is doable.

Be well,

SJW

 

My damper came off the usual way by beating on it from underneath, but it took some persuasion, and I had doused it with liquid wrench for a day or so.

Other posts mentioned a piece of 2x4, but that was too large to fit between the oil pan and the frame. I did not want to move the power steering line, so I tried a smaller 1"x1" length of wood (wire brush handle) but finally achieved success by using an old pickle fork (used for tie rods) that happened to be curved perfectly to fit in there. Didn't have to rotate the damper, just hit it on each side (9 o'clock and 3 o'clock).

Just in case I need to go in there again, I cleaned up the snout and the inside of the hub with emery cloth and coated them with some grease to reduce the corrosion. I find that taking that extra step almost guarantees I won't have to remove it again.