Air Fuel Ratio?
The Dyno included a reading on the Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) at the exhaust. It started out at 65 MPH on the scale (First scale is Speed, second pull was printed with RPM) and the AFR was setting at about 13.7. He stomps on it and at 70Mph it droppped to 12.0 and stayed there until he let off the gas.
On the second run it started out at 16 at 2600 RPM and then at went this way
3100 \ 12.9
3400 \ 12.2
4000 \ 12.9
4400 \ 12.4
4600 \ 12.1
4800 \ 12.0
then he let off.
So, my question is... Is this a normal AFR? Should I try and get this up or down or keep it at this rate? Is this rating a %?
12% fuel to 88% air?
Here are the details on the car.
89 L98
A4
3.07
Headman LT Headers
3" RT Cats
3" Dual all the way back
Cutouts open at the back of the car
K&N w\cut lid
MSD
Frisbee Removed
New Plugs, Wires, Cap, Roter
Ditch the TPI, put a cam in it and throw on some new heads and you'll see much better horsepower numbers. I'm not trying ot burst your bubble, but a lot of these bolt ons and freebies such as the K&N, open lid, frisbee, etc all amount to maybe 1 HP at the end of the day. The exhaust can be a restriction once you start doing other mods, but in stock form it isn't really holding you back much.
The key to making big horsepower is the proper combination of parts. You've free'd up your exhaust which certainly won't hurt anything. It didn't really give you much now, but it will open the doors for you to make bigger power down the road when you start working on other mods. The funny thing about cars is that the horsepower gained from a proper combination of parts is greater than the sum total of all the parts if they were installed individually.
My question was not about the HP results though...
Tim
For your A/F question it is the ratio, not the percentage. You read it as say 12.9:1 or 12.9 to 1. This means there are 12.9 parts air for every one part fuel, which doesn't fall directly into a percentage. Imagine you had 1 pound of fuel, to obtain a 12.9:1 ratio of air to fuel, you would need to mix it with 12.9 pounds of air.
If you want the percentage you would have to look at the total. Since you have 1 pound of fuel and 12.9 pounds of air, that's a total of 13.9 pounds of material. 1 pound of fuel out of 13.9 pounds total would give you approximately 7% fuel and 93% air. Make sense?
Also as far as what air / fuel ratio is "perfect" for your car, well that depends on your car, the dyno, etc. For example one car with one wide band may make the most power at 12.5:1 while on another dyno with another A/F gauge it may read 13:1. The car is still running at the same real ratio, but other factors may be affecting the reading, such as exhaust leaks, placement of the sensor, etc. 12.9 is very much "in the ballpark" but you'd really have to just play with the tune to figure out exactly what your car likes the best.
Looks like you've picked up around 35hp from your mods. I'd say thats close to what you should be at.. With the above tuning of the A/F ration you might see another 10-20.
Heck when I dynoed the car (before my major mods, only bolt ons), I went from 228RWHP to 251RWHP by lowering the FP to 38psi from 43psi...
I wish i had listen to Nathan before i did mod to get rid of TPI, still looking for some cheap used SR upper.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Both cars had a really good set of heads (not exactly equal but very close) and both had a 219 L cam.
The best way to determine best A/F would be to install an AFPR and get several pulls with various fuel pressures. Of course you would need to be sure that coolant temps were the same (or nearly so) on each comparitive pull.
My car is an 89 and has an L98 motor in it. They are known for high torque. Your car might be right were it should be.
Tim
The stock spec for your LT1 is like 340 lbs@4600 and 300 HP @5000 I'd say your looking good was this on a Dyno jet dyno ? ~guessing so~
So the difference is the intake on an LT1 and the L98 the L98's have more low end torque and longer intake runners.
Mo

















