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Here's one we don't talk about much. I know the torque specs on some fasteners are obviously more important than others, and I usually refer to my Helm's manual for the specs. But in the manual, some suspension bolts/nuts state that the car must be at proper trim height before torquing. How important is this really? Some of them are difficult if not impossible to get a torque wrench on with the car on the ground, and everything else (wheels, exhaust, etc.) fully assembled.
if you can't get to them in situ, then you'll just have to make a judgement call; the fact that you're attemping to use the torque wrench at all is a step up from many an amature mechanic.
Here's one we don't talk about much. I know the torque specs on some fasteners are obviously more important than others, and I usually refer to my Helm's manual for the specs. But in the manual, some suspension bolts/nuts state that the car must be at proper trim height before torquing. How important is this really? Some of them are difficult if not impossible to get a torque wrench on with the car on the ground, and everything else (wheels, exhaust, etc.) fully assembled.
I may get flamed but:
I used a lift for my suspension work and I could not access some of fasteners with the car sitting on the tires so to get these peices torqued I used a jack and a block of wood under the rotor to approximate ride height and torqued some from underneath and others from above. I could not think of a better solution. Does anyone have the real solution?? (I put a couple of lug nuts on to hold the rotor)Mike
Fasteners that locate and tighten over control arm bushings may be what they have in mind. Maybe you could get it tight enough to hold everything in place with a ratchet and lift in the air to get a torque wrench on it.
The point of being at "ride height" is more a matter of where the rubber is when the fastener is tightened, than it is of the fastener being properly tightened. If too far out of position when everything is tightened up, the rubber may take a while to work it's way back into a proper operating position. Or it may never move and operate adding a small amount of torsion to the operation. A block of wood underneath a rotor, at least gets most of the weight where it should be, and goes a long way toward correcting the situation. Either way, if torqued, you shouldn't have to worry about nuts and bolts falling off of the car.
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