C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

front wheel bearings???

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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 08:39 PM
  #21  
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ABS was not an option. They started sometime before 87 because my coupe has ABS. Ever hear a funny sound when you first move the car? Kind of a buzz whirr? That's the ABS cycling up.

Thanks for the info on wheel bearings!!! Finally someone has the facts.

JS
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 09:30 PM
  #22  
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So which is it, 4 bolt front or 3 bolt? And what years are interchangeable with what f-body?

If you don't know the answer, please don't claim to.
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by jsinga
ABS was not an option. They started sometime before 87 because my coupe has ABS. Ever hear a funny sound when you first move the car? Kind of a buzz whirr? That's the ABS cycling up.

JS
So THAT's what that noise is!!! I've been wondering about that for over a year now. What exactly is the ABS doing that makes that noise? I've noticed it numerous times when I first begin moving forward after backing out of my garage and driveway.

Be well,

SJW
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 12:00 PM
  #24  
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On a '92, the ABS goes through a self-test at 4 mph forward or reverse.

Tom Piper
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
So which is it, 4 bolt front or 3 bolt? And what years are interchangeable with what f-body?

If you don't know the answer, please don't claim to.
All C4s use the same 4 bolt front hub/wheel bearings. All C4s use the same 3 bolt rear hub/wheel bearings. The ABS reluctor can be eliminated if necessary or swapped over if necessary. I don't know the answer on the years and model F body front bearings that will work. However, it is obvious that the hub and the knuckle cannot both be tapped. If that were the case the bolt would simply thread into both pieces and there would be no clamping force between them.

RACE ON!!!

Last edited by CFI-EFI; Nov 16, 2005 at 01:32 PM. Reason: Typo
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 12:15 PM
  #26  
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Default Abs

Thanks, I too wondered what that noise and funny feeling in my brake pedal was when I backed out of the garage. Most cars have ABS on the brake pedal or a light on the dash for the ABS function. I looked at the back of my brake hub, and there was a cable going into the works with a bunch of little metal spikes sticking straight up all around the magnet portion. Strong magnet. Hard to get thoses little buggers off. Nice to know I have ABS. It saved me from T-boning a woman who pulled out in front of my 944 Porshe and stopped dead when she saw me coming years ago. I was able to stomp on the brakes and still steer around her at the last second. Hope I don't need it anytime soon.
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 02:35 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
However, it is obvious that the hub and the knuckle cannot both be tapped. If that were the case the bolt would simply thread into both pieces and there would be no clamping force between them.
Good news. And I'm pretty sure my front knuckles aren't tapped. They're just held on by the nuts on the inboard side, so I'm thinking the f-body bearings will fit without drilling any threads at all, just put the bolts in from other side, right?
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 02:35 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Tom Piper
On a '92, the ABS goes through a self-test at 4 mph forward or reverse.

Tom Piper
Thanks, Tom.

Same would be true on a '94?

Be well,

SJW
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 03:04 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
Good news. And I'm pretty sure my front knuckles aren't tapped.
According to my parts book the stock Corvette knuckles are NOT tapped. They take a nut, as you say. That means that the flange of the F body hub/wheel bearing, probably is threaded. All you should have to do is install the bolt from the inside, rather than the outside. It is possible you may need a shorter bolt, and/or one with different threads.

RACE ON!!!

Last edited by CFI-EFI; Nov 16, 2005 at 04:11 PM.
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 03:56 PM
  #30  
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On my '88 neither part was threaded 4 bolts 4 nuts.



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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 11:14 PM
  #31  
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Default cheap bearings

Just wanted to tell my wheel bearing story. My first project for my recently purchased 86 was changing wheel bearings - one had .009 end play. I bought BCA bearings at my local parts store about $170 each. In March at my first drivers school after about 5 runs my ABS quit worikg after a few more runs I grabbed my left front tire and shook it and was almost ready to fall off. I took the bearing off and the retaining nut had fallen off inside the nuckle and the wheel for the ABS had been bouncing inside-no ABS. After replacing with a old bearing we starting running again and after another 10-12 runs the right front loosened up also. Changed another one back to an old bearing. Some of the differences between these and the original, the thickness of the housing was a little different-thicker and the ABS wheel was thinner and it had a different type of screw that was staked holding the assembly together. I run 11" wheels and R compound tires and have autoxed at least 50 evente this year with my Son and I both driving after changing to AC Delco Bearings. My store let me pay the $80 more per wheel to upgrade to Delco. After my problems I had a friend tell me someone had lost a wheel after changing to cheap bearings. This is not a part to go cheap on.
Good Luck
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