C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Speedy Sleeve instructions?

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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 12:11 PM
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Default Speedy Sleeve instructions?

As many of you know I've replaced the clutch, slave cylinder, and master cylinder on my car recently. It works great now but transmission decided that it was going to start leaking this time when I pulled the driveshaft out.

After some issues,

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...92&forum_id=48

I've finally got the new seal and repair sleeve. The thing is I've never used one of these sleeves before so I'm not real sure how it should work. I imagine it is supposed to be a fairly snug fit on the yoke. Are you supposed to heat the sleeve so that it slides onto the yoke and then locks in place when cooled or what? It didn't come with any instructions at all.
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 12:33 PM
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Heating it to 325 or so would probably work. It may just tap on w/ a block of wood and hammer. It really shouldn't have to be that snug of a fit to stay put. I install all types of seals w/ sleeves in my work but we have special tools for the applications. I've never put one on a yoke before. It should certainly ensure a leak free job though. I'm surprised it didn't come w/ instructions, that sucks. How much area does it cover length-wise?
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 01:09 PM
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It doesn't cover as much area as I would like, it's only about 1 inch long. I guess it'll get the job done though. I guess since it isn't full length that allows you to get it started on the splines straight because it's going to make a very tight fit on the seal.

What about the seal itself? Should it be installed dry or should I put some grease or anything on it? I know the GM crankshaft seal comes greased.

Anyway, the car is up in the air so that's one of the hardest parts. Now I just have to drop the exhaust, remove the torque arm and driveshaft.

Let me see here

9/16ths for exhaust
18mm and 21mm for torque arm...
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 01:10 PM
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I am a little **** and would not use a sleeve on a 150 dollar part. However, if I had to use a sleeve I would use heat and some locktite bushing and sleeve retainer.

Put some oil on it!

Mike
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 01:12 PM
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If it still leaks I have to replace the yoke anyway. As such I'm more than willing to try to $10 solution in an attempt to avoid paying $150.
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 01:16 PM
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I love saving money too! However, having to drop the X-brace, exhaust, C-Beam and finally pulling the drive shaft twice is not worth 100 bucks to me. However, I am no-longer a starving college student so everything is relative. I try to fix everything right the first time, an old chief once told me, "You may not have the time to do it right, however, you will always find the time to do it over.
Good luck

Mike
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 01:37 PM
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I've used the Speedi-Sleeve and I have had good luck with them.
There are some of inferior quality though.

Mine came with a special tool to install it;and, all of mine were made of stainless steel.

In a case of a crankshaft hub with a fairly deep groove, I used some metallic epoxy sealer in the groove and then installed the Speedi-Sleeve.

http://www2.chicago-rawhide.com/speedi_sleeves.htm


Tom Piper
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Nathan Plemons
It doesn't cover as much area as I would like, it's only about 1 inch long. I guess it'll get the job done though. I guess since it isn't full length that allows you to get it started on the splines straight because it's going to make a very tight fit on the seal.

What about the seal itself? Should it be installed dry or should I put some grease or anything on it? I know the GM crankshaft seal comes greased.

Anyway, the car is up in the air so that's one of the hardest parts. Now I just have to drop the exhaust, remove the torque arm and driveshaft.

Let me see here

9/16ths for exhaust
18mm and 21mm for torque arm...
There's not a thing wrong with repairing a part with a sleeve. It is only metal, just like the part it's going over. I would grease the seal just like the original. An inch long is plenty, after all, the seal only uses a very small portion of it especially on these cars where movement is virtually nil. Mark the yoke a half inch beyond where the groove is now and you can center it precisely by knowing just where to stop. Good luck, it should work well.
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 03:29 PM
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I used a speedy sleeve on my crank front main seal... damn thing still leaks. I think the sleeve is worth a shot. I don't know what to do if that leaks though... kinda hard to remove the sleeve

I put mine on clean and dry, but heating it a bit sounds like a better idea. I dont see how a sleeve will cover the yoke sealing surface, it's way at the back of the yoke. Does the 1" sleeve slide all the way down?
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 05:14 PM
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Well I got it apart and although the TH400 seal might work, the sleeve is the least bit too big. It fits over the yoke with no effort at all. Obviously that's not gonna work. I looked at it and found that there were some rough places on the yoke but it wasn't THAT bad. I thought that maybe the combination of the original seal and the yoke was the problem.

I put the new seal in the trans and then I polished the yoke with a piece of wet sandpaper soaked in oil. It smoothed up pretty well. I put it all back together and took the car for a spirited drive. So far it hasn't dripped on the garage floor, whereas it would have by now the way it was leaking before. So if I didn't fix it maybe at the very least I slowed it down to a bearable level until I can afford a new yoke.
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