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blew 3rd 4th cluthes pacs and won't shift into high!... has happen in my 87 roadster, now in the 89
want to rebuild to level 3 performance:
somethings i have considered are:
1, intermiatate servo (for more holding powwer, 1-2.2-3firmer shifts)
2, overdrive billet servo (more holding power 3/4 shifts)
3, 8 RED EAGLES full thickness Kolene STEELS in 2/4 cluthe drum
4, over size low/reverse boost valve, (produces higher presssure and firmers shifts
5, high volume 13 vane pump
6, pro-series kevlar band (holds in second and overdrive)
7heavy duty stall convertor 2300 stall , with carbon fiber clutch/needle bearing fro added strenght
8,30 spline input shaft with the "beast reaction shel"
9, transgo shifterplate, elevated pressure reactor spring
10 extra wide sun gearing bushing, extra wide stator support bushing
11, 1-2 accumaltor spring,
high output pump s;lide spring
12, special intermediate servo release valve spring
13 corvette governor, 29 element borg=warnerinput sprag
14 automatic convertor lock up switch
15, 3.06 ratio 1 st gear, with 30 percent overdrive
if you have any suggestions or changes:
please indicate what they are and specify parts with links
Are you going to do it yourself?
I have never used the red clutch disks. I have never had a need.
Some guys do not like the 13 vane pump. I have heard of breakage in the rpms. Dana, at Probuilt, only uses 10 vane. I have used 1 13 vane pump in a 600 ft lb car but otherwise, only use 10 vanes.
Most of the stuff listed is probably overkill. That is fine though, if the budget allows for it. I build them much milder and the have been holding up well on the medium hp/ torque stuff we have been playing with. The MOST important part of a good build is blueprinting. Many, many hrs are spent deburring, checking, and setting the clearances exactly as desired. GM's specs are waaaay too broad. Find the right guy. The builder is more important than the parts.
Most of the stuff listed is probably overkill. That is fine though, if the budget allows for it. I build them much milder and the have been holding up well on the medium hp/ torque stuff we have been playing with. The MOST important part of a good build is blueprinting. Many, many hrs are spent deburring, checking, and setting the clearances exactly as desired. GM's specs are waaaay too broad. Find the right guy. The builder is more important than the parts.
the actual rebuild will be done by NATIONAL TRANSMISSION...they have done the last 700R and its working well. AS for the parts a standard rebuild kit will vary from 350- 450$ depending wwhat needed. the parts choosen will increase cost by 200-400 (total 500- 800), with labour being the same...it not a ??? replacement parts are critical to rebuild/performance. equally important is the mechanic which has done this before. In my thinking ther is no over kill with parts when the thing is already apart. fix it rite the first time:
the actual rebuild will be done by NATIONAL TRANSMISSION...they have done the last 700R and its working well. AS for the parts a standard rebuild kit will vary from 350- 450$ depending wwhat needed. the parts choosen will increase cost by 200-400 (total 500- 800), with labour being the same...it not a ??? replacement parts are critical to rebuild/performance. equally important is the mechanic which has done this before. In my thinking ther is no over kill with parts when the thing is already apart. fix it rite the first time:
I agree. That is why I said if the budget allows. Remember though all of the parts mentioned are aftermarket. Quality is always questionable with aftermarket stuff in general. Most aftermarket trans parts are made in china. I have had good luck with aftermarket trans parts. I have always felt(to a point) that more expensive parts do not guarantee againts failure. You simply buy better odds it will not fail. I did not mean to ruffle your feathers. I just wanted to state that the guy building it is more important than the parts. This theory mainly applies to my experience with low (600 hp or less) stuff. Good luck with yor build
pete, when you say "in the rpm's" with the 13 vane, what kind of rpm are you talking about... my car makes the torque but doesn't necessarily run that high rpm. I'm just watching this stuff for my next one down the road.
I was told over 6200. This seems to make sense since the 13 vane pumps debuted at the same time as the ls1 motors. Dana, at probuilt is one of the guys I trust most. Since he uses 10 vane only, so do I.
Most of the stuff listed is probably overkill. That is fine though, if the budget allows for it. I build them much milder and the have been holding up well on the medium hp/ torque stuff we have been playing with. The MOST important part of a good build is blueprinting. Many, many hrs are spent deburring, checking, and setting the clearances exactly as desired. GM's specs are waaaay too broad. Find the right guy. The builder is more important than the parts.
if u build them, what parts are u using? and which supplier? i have the mechanic to install....
if u build them, what parts are u using? and which supplier? i have the mechanic to install....
I am an old fashioned guy. I like the stock gm pump, alto frictions, borg warner bands and sprag/low roller clutch, beast (china) sun shell, gm planetaries(4 or 5 depending on budget) transstar rubbers, metals and teflons, sonnax pump rings/high pressure pump spring. Most quality shops use transtar. I heard a rumor that they supply gm too. So far, so good. No explosions ...yet. My buddies formula firebird is our unofficial test car. 600 ft lbs, 1.500 60' and mid 11 sec 1/4. I am almost hoping it pops just to see what the next weak link is. Car owner does not agree with this though.
"Other"
OEM 29 element input sprag (late design)
Sealed Power Beast sunshell
Trans-Go (Hi-Rev) replacement forward springs & 3-4 springs (good up to 7,800 rpm)
Input/output shaft seal (Viton)
2-4 band (Hi-Energy), Borg-Warner
2nd gear servo, Corvette
Low/reverse roller assembly (late design), Borg-Warner
Paper & rubber (gasket) kit w/new governor gear
Transmission filter (OEM)
Converter solenoid & governor filter
Bushing kit with 3 teflon
Thrust washer kit
Sealing ring kit
HD Bearing kit
Trans-Go Shift kit (Street/Strip) w/accumulation for nice part throttle shifts
Vamac 3 lip rear seal (prelubed)
Details
Price: $ 486.34
Options
New reverse/input drum No Yes (+$78.5)
HD sleeve & Cryoed forward piston for input drum 550HP & up No Yes (+$93.67)
Quantity 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
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this is a good version of street / strip transmission . most of the parts listed, are major upgrades that any 700r should have, has any one built to these spec?