Dyno Run - Post Mods - Confused??
it isn't a problem, you just need to change a few other things to take
advantage of that intake.
there are lots of torque-challenged vehicles that run strong numbers
I recall that you've gone into some detail in past posts about the
complementary changes necessary to get the MRII to work well for
you. Given the current ineffectual state of the Search feature, could
you post back here with the highlights or perhaps links to the info
you've posted before to give 90Indy more insight into what this path
entails.
Edit: Found one - 'My Miniram vs LTR intake comparison inside...'
I know if I was going to be turning an L98 over 6 K that I'd look at
the oil pump, valve train and ignition. If I was going to 6,500 or more
very often I'd be wondering about the rods and harmonic damper. Of
course, the 3.07 rear would get changed out.
Edit: Actually, I'd be wondering about the rods before 6,500. And so on.
.
Last edited by Slalom4me; Nov 21, 2005 at 12:01 PM.
ones like the Honda S2000, not an MRII-equipped 'Vette. I acknowledge
that there will still be decided torque available for the 'Vette.
Also, what is your opinion about the MRII vs the SR in an application
where redline is held to 6,000 - in other words, where the owner
chooses not to make the changes necessary to support higher RPM
operation.
.
I did not know they made hyd. roller cams with that much duration and so little lift. Seems like a flat tappet cam to me.
I'll be sure to let you know what I decide to do and how things come out.
90Indy
A stock Holley Stealth Ram does not fit under the C4 hood. Modified
plenums were tried but don't appear to have panned out. One
exception - still under development - is JoBy's modification. He is
dropping the plenum down over the runners with the intent of welding
the two together.
The Toledo Pro / Melrose hood or the Greenwood / Mold Kraft scoop
appear to provide enough clearance to accomodate a stock HSR.
Several members have the Toledo / Melrose hoods and speak highly of
them.
.
there are lots of torque-challenged vehicles that run strong numbers
I recall that you've gone into some detail in past posts about the
complementary changes necessary to get the MRII to work well for
you. Given the current ineffectual state of the Search feature, could
you post back here with the highlights or perhaps links to the info
you've posted before to give 90Indy more insight into what this path
entails.
Edit: Found one - 'My Miniram vs LTR intake comparison inside...'
I know if I was going to be turning an L98 over 6 K that I'd look at
the oil pump, valve train and ignition. If I was going to 6,500 or more
very often I'd be wondering about the rods and harmonic damper. Of
course, the 3.07 rear would get changed out.
Edit: Actually, I'd be wondering about the rods before 6,500. And so on.
.
Can I just give an update here.
When I first put the intake on I did think that it was soft on low end. Turns out one of my 3000 mile Bosch plugs was garbage. This car will still burn em loose when you get on it. If you put a stall in it it gets out of the area that it is lower on power that it really isn't an issue, and a gear will get you out even faster.
I still believe that the car needs to have a gear to pull in the 5000rpm and up range in 3 gear to take advantage of the intake. That is where I was seeing a loss between the 1/8 and 1/4 mile.
I also now believe that my current exhaust setup is deficient for what I have. I was going to get that redone this year but it snowed out and they salted the roads so the car is now sleeping til March.
If you have a stock shorty like me I'd let the cam dictate where you want to shift at. I know the intake is good to 7 grand but you don't have to stick a cam in that is good that high too. My 219 was making power at 6200 yet but that's where I shut it down on the dyno. I don't want to make a bunch of little pieces out of it. I am pretty confident when I get my exhaust done on the car I will see 15-20 hp.
So to condense it, put a mini on, put a gear (3.55-3.73)and stall (26-28, a good one) in it and if you chose your other engine parts correctly you will have around a 440chp 350 SBC that is fun to drive on the streets and not a bitch to work on (read SR.)
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