C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

C-Beam caulk kit

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Old Nov 22, 2005 | 10:04 AM
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From: Lengede
Default C-Beam caulk kit

The caulk kit for the C-beam has been discontinued through GM. What do you fellows use instead.
Just plain old silicon??
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Old Nov 22, 2005 | 11:34 AM
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I just put it back together clean. I've heard of others using liquid nails. IMO Silocone is too soft to do any good.
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Old Nov 22, 2005 | 01:05 PM
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I too put mine back together clean.The calk is to prevent corosion so
unless you drive in a salty area it is a non issue.
I do recamend the Beam plates which I did use.
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Old Nov 22, 2005 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 89corvetteken
I too put mine back together clean.
I do recamend the Beam plates which I did use.

That's what I did.
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Old Nov 22, 2005 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 89corvetteken
I too put mine back together clean.The calk is to prevent corosion so
unless you drive in a salty area it is a non issue.
I do recamend the Beam plates which I did use.


I didn't re-apply the caulk either. No issues for the past 3 years.
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Old Nov 22, 2005 | 04:55 PM
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3m 5200 Marine adhesive
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Old Nov 22, 2005 | 11:20 PM
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Liquid Nails will work.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 12:42 AM
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I used liquid nails and the zip products c-beam plates. I still have a creak upon initial acceleration. I would suggest using a WHOLE LOT of liquid nails. Clean the area really well and slather it on. You may even 'open' up the beam a little so you can get a bunch on the contact points before tightening.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 01:18 AM
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Nothing. I don't want to put up with that crap every time I take it off.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 04:19 AM
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I put mine back together with no sealer like most on here have. I wonder if anyone using liquid nails have tried to seperate it after installing? I have no experience with liquid nails on a car, but on construction jobs, that stuff holds well. After it has curied, it will split the wood before the joint will break. I cant help but wonder, what kind of problems they will have pulling the c-beam in the future.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by 93 ragtop
I put mine back together with no sealer like most on here have. I wonder if anyone using liquid nails have tried to seperate it after installing? I have no experience with liquid nails on a car, but on construction jobs, that stuff holds well. After it has curied, it will split the wood before the joint will break. I cant help but wonder, what kind of problems they will have pulling the c-beam in the future.
Acetone and a big standard tip screw driver.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 05:39 PM
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As I see it, most of you are using the C- beam plates. Does anyone know why the upper plates look different. Why aren’t they made the same way??
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by vettef6
As I see it, most of you are using the C- beam plates. Does anyone know why the upper plates look different. Why aren’t they made the same way??
The front beam plate has a notch cut out for clearance. The nut size is also different (if I remember right :o )

Also, some guys have used wind shield adhesive, the black stuff, which is very close to what the factory uses.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 08:56 PM
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Default Sealant

The original GM part#'d adhesive through several part# changes is now the current part# for the urethane windshield sealant/adhesive. Liquid nails is interesting as is the 3m 5200 marine stuff. Decisions decisions!!!
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Strick
The front beam plate has a notch cut out for clearance. The nut size is also different (if I remember right :o )

Also, some guys have used wind shield adhesive, the black stuff, which is very close to what the factory uses.
That is what I used. I don't believe that it has any mechanical purpose except to keep moisture and crap from between the c-beam and the diff. I would have skipped it however, I drive in rain and crap!

Happy Thanksgiving everybody!!!!

Mike
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Old Nov 24, 2005 | 06:13 AM
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From: Lengede
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Originally Posted by Strick
The front beam plate has a notch cut out for clearance. The nut size is also different (if I remember right :o )
This might be true but doesn’t have anything to do with the upper plates; they look quite different. The one in the front just has a washer on top of the nuts so they won’t fall out. The one in the back has twice as much bracing welded on the plate. There must be a reason for doing this!!
Or is it just so, that no one gets the notion of reproducing these plates themselves???
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