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I too put mine back together clean.The calk is to prevent corosion so
unless you drive in a salty area it is a non issue.
I do recamend the Beam plates which I did use.
I too put mine back together clean.The calk is to prevent corosion so
unless you drive in a salty area it is a non issue.
I do recamend the Beam plates which I did use.
I didn't re-apply the caulk either. No issues for the past 3 years.
I used liquid nails and the zip products c-beam plates. I still have a creak upon initial acceleration. I would suggest using a WHOLE LOT of liquid nails. Clean the area really well and slather it on. You may even 'open' up the beam a little so you can get a bunch on the contact points before tightening.
I put mine back together with no sealer like most on here have. I wonder if anyone using liquid nails have tried to seperate it after installing? I have no experience with liquid nails on a car, but on construction jobs, that stuff holds well. After it has curied, it will split the wood before the joint will break. I cant help but wonder, what kind of problems they will have pulling the c-beam in the future.
I put mine back together with no sealer like most on here have. I wonder if anyone using liquid nails have tried to seperate it after installing? I have no experience with liquid nails on a car, but on construction jobs, that stuff holds well. After it has curied, it will split the wood before the joint will break. I cant help but wonder, what kind of problems they will have pulling the c-beam in the future.
The original GM part#'d adhesive through several part# changes is now the current part# for the urethane windshield sealant/adhesive. Liquid nails is interesting as is the 3m 5200 marine stuff. Decisions decisions!!!
The front beam plate has a notch cut out for clearance. The nut size is also different (if I remember right :o )
Also, some guys have used wind shield adhesive, the black stuff, which is very close to what the factory uses.
That is what I used. I don't believe that it has any mechanical purpose except to keep moisture and crap from between the c-beam and the diff. I would have skipped it however, I drive in rain and crap!
The front beam plate has a notch cut out for clearance. The nut size is also different (if I remember right :o )
This might be true but doesn’t have anything to do with the upper plates; they look quite different. The one in the front just has a washer on top of the nuts so they won’t fall out. The one in the back has twice as much bracing welded on the plate. There must be a reason for doing this!!
Or is it just so, that no one gets the notion of reproducing these plates themselves???