C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Bias spring for new master cyl?

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Old Nov 22, 2005 | 01:01 PM
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Default Bias spring for new master cyl?

Replaced the master cylinder on my 94 with a new GM unit and when I attemted to swap over my aftermarket bias spring I discovered the proportioning valve assembly on the new unit is a different design. The bias spring is almost twice as long as the old design. Anyone have experience with this issue and maybe know where to get a replacement spring for the new design that improves rear braking?
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Old Nov 22, 2005 | 06:07 PM
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Someone could have replaced it with one from DRM. They have one that will give the braking even braking from front to back. Makes the car stop loevel, less nose dive. Here is a thread where Jim changed his out:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...25&forum_id=23

Its called a bias spring: http://www.dougrippie.com/
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Old Nov 22, 2005 | 07:45 PM
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Can you post pics of the new & old proportioning valves, M/C's
and their respective proportioning valves.

Also count the coils (full and partial, starting from the end) on
the springs.

.
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Old Nov 29, 2005 | 10:45 AM
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I've been out of town for the holiday. Will take some pics this week and try to post them.
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 04:57 PM
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Finally got to taking and uploading some pictures.



The top assemblies are from the original master cylinder which had a DRM bias spring installed by the previous owner. The bottom pieces are from the new GM master cylinder. The length of the spring is significantly different but the bodies are very similar in size. I'm really stumped. Any light that anyone can shed on the issue will be greatly appreciated.
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 05:35 PM
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I don't think you'll have any problem. I believe my DRM spring was longer than stock too but it works fine. It can be a bee-otch to get back together. I drilled an appropriate sized hole in a block of word to hold the valve while compressing and clipping it. Be ready to chase flying parts!
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 10:54 AM
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The DRM spring is the shorter one that is pictured on the top. I expected it to be longer also but that's not the case when compared with the new assembly.
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 11:47 AM
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The principal problem I see is how to reassemble the new PV without
damaging the disk and plastic mechanism which I assume from your
positioning of them, fit between the spring and the c-clip retainer.

I considered suggesting installation of the old PV but at least one orfice
in the new design is decidedly larger in dia.

Looks like the new PV has a coating applied to the barrel segments
between the o-rings. Anti-corrosion? It is a non-contact region.


.
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot2
The top assemblies are from the original master cylinder which had a DRM bias spring installed by the previous owner. The bottom pieces are from the new GM master cylinder. The length of the spring is significantly different but the bodies are very similar in size. I'm really stumped. Any light that anyone can shed on the issue will be greatly appreciated.
Your new valve body looks like the one that came out of my '96 (which is the original), so it would appear GM made a design change. The DRM spring is shorter than the OEM spring as you metnoned. Take the old DRM bias spring and install it in the new body. Here's how I compressed the spring:

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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 96GS#007
Here's how I compressed the spring
Are the disc w/ 4 holes and the plastic device parts that come from the
forward end of the PV? (I did not disassemble the components in the
nose of my valve so I am not familiar with what they look like. My
'89 did not have parts like these at the rearward end.)

If not, how does he apply pressure with the hex drive? Your technique
would work on my PV because the hex drive would bottom against the
inside end of the valve.

.
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 02:39 PM
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96GS#007
Knowing the assy out of your 96 looked the same as the one from my new master cyl makes me feel a little better - I suspected a design change. My concern though is that the DRM spring is not going to provide the desired change in brake bias if I put it in the new PV given the shorter length and consequent decrease in spring pressure.

Slalom4me
Yes, the disc w/ 4 holes and the plastic piece (looks like a valve) came from the forward end of the PV, in the same sequence as shown. I had also thought about putting the old PV in the new master cyl since they are the same diameter and length. Also noticed the difference in the orfice dia. Part of my quandary.
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 02:49 PM
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I would not use the new spring until checking with DRM. (I presume you got it from them). I just ordered one for my '85 two weeks ago and was told that there are two styles; a long one and a shorter one, and the DRM spring could not be used if I had the longer style. Unlike yours, my original was very close to the size of the DRM spring.
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Slalom4me
Are the disc w/ 4 holes and the plastic device parts that come from the
forward end of the PV?
.

Yes
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 01:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Slalom4me
The principal problem I see is how to reassemble the new PV without
damaging the disk and plastic mechanism which I assume from your
positioning of them, fit between the spring and the c-clip retainer.

I considered suggesting installation of the old PV but at least one orfice
in the new design is decidedly larger in dia.

Looks like the new PV has a coating applied to the barrel segments
between the o-rings. Anti-corrosion? It is a non-contact region.


.


the shorter spring looks like it is a larger (heavier) diameter than the longer spring. they may both have the same pressure rating, and they may also be using a shorter thicker spring to increase longevity and consistency.



frog.

Last edited by parafrog; Feb 8, 2006 at 01:25 AM.
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 03:21 AM
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This is a combination valve.

The DRM spring is shorter and stiffer, but should take about the same amount of force to compress to the installed length of ~0.9"

The preload of the spring 20-25 lbs, I believe determines the 'crack point' where it begins reducing pressure to the rear brakes.

The DRM spring is stiffer, but with about the same crack point, so it doesn't reduce rear brake pressure as much. Should be about 50% stiffer.

The spring I used is even shorter than the DRM spring and stiffer, but with the same preload.

In short... just stick the DRM spring in there and you're done.

Last edited by CentralCoaster; Feb 8, 2006 at 03:30 AM.
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 11:27 AM
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Some good info - seems like doing a stiffness test on both springs at the .9 in. compressed height would be smart. I'll try to get that done.
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 11:31 AM
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I lucked out with the install as I picked up the brake cylinder with the DRM spring in it
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot2
Some good info - seems like doing a stiffness test on both springs at the .9 in. compressed height would be smart. I'll try to get that done.
The DRM is a 45 #/in spring with 25 lb of preload at the installed length. Free length is 1.5".

If you're done with the stock spring, can you send it to me? I think GM changed the bias a bunch of times through the years, I'm trying to compile all that info.
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 10:42 AM
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You guys are on the right path. I don't know anything about that long spring. You and one other guy are fighting it. My other customer just put it in and said it worked great. But I can't advise that it will work, because I don't think he is the best driver in the world. But he said there was a better change.

I could measure the springs too, if you guys need me to,

Randy
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 02:50 PM
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Randy
Glad to see you in the conversation. Any data you could provide would be a great help - especially on the original GM spring (short version) since I don't have one. Don't want to get into anything that might be of proprietary nature though.

CentralCoaster
I can give you the GM spring when this gets sorted out.
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