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Got the block ready to pull the cam and as per my prior research the motor must be tilted. Has anyone ever notched the cross member ???
I guess the motor mounts bolts just have to be loosened to get the cam out. Also is the oil pan gasket supposed to be one continuous piece or is it cut.
Why do you want to tilt the block? You aren't going to try to remove the camshaft from the crankshafr main journals, are you? The camshaft should be nowhere near the crossmember. Yes. The oil pan IS one piece. Why?
Why do you want to tilt the block? You aren't going to try to remove the camshaft from the crankshafr main journals, are you? The camshaft should be nowhere near the crossmember. Yes. The oil pan IS one piece. Why?
[QUOTE=fredk]Got the block ready to pull the cam and as per my prior research the motor must be tilted. Has anyone ever notched the cross member ???
I guess the motor mounts bolts just have to be loosened to get the cam out. Also is the oil pan gasket supposed to be one continuous piece or is it cut.
Thanks
I would not notch the cross member, it would take more than just notching it a hair.
When I did my cam change I was pulling the trans at the same time, I just lowered the trans with a jack before removing it and the cam came right out. Most just loosen the motor mounts. Have fun!
If anyone would like to see a pic of the cam hitting the cross member, I can e-mail you one so you can post it.
Last edited by vetster86; Nov 22, 2005 at 08:36 PM.
Unscrew the single nut on the bottom of each motor mount. Put a board under the oil pan. Jack the engine to clear the cross member. It only needs about 3/4 of an inch to clear.
Why do you want to tilt the block? You aren't going to try to remove the camshaft from the crankshafr main journals, are you? The camshaft should be nowhere near the crossmember. Yes. The oil pan IS one piece. Why?
RACE ON!!!
I think you understand what he was talking about now. I wouldn't call it a crossmember. It's a brace. On the early cars it was way smaller and had two little removable corner braces. In those cars it was probably a non issue.
Just had to pull my cam back out after installing the engine in my '90. I had to lift the engine slightly to get the cam to clear the front crossbar. All I did is take the bolt out of the drivers side motor mount and lift with a cherry picker on that side bolted to one of the accesory bolt holes and the engine rotated on the other side's engine mount bolt. I also had to tilt the radiator out of the way.
I missed the word "gasket" the first time. Yes, it IS supposed to be one piece. I still don't make any sense out of the rest, however.
RACE ON!!!
He is pulling the cam and he is asking about the gasket that goes at the bottom of the timing cover I would assume. When you buy a timing cover gasket set it has a little piece to go in the valley between the timing chain cover and oil pan. Also I think if memory serves me correct you have an '84, and I don't know about them, but on my '90 there is a square piece of the frame that runs between the frame rails right in front of the water pump. When you try to pull the cam, it hits this piece of the frame.
He is pulling the cam and he is asking about the gasket that goes at the bottom of the timing cover I would assume.
I didn't see the word "gasket" when I first posted. I had thought he was asking if it was a one piece pan. That is why I corrected my self. I understand about the pan gasket, even if my '84 doesn't have a one piece pan gasket.
Originally Posted by hz900
Also I think if memory serves me correct you have an '84, and I don't know about them, but on my '90 there is a square piece of the frame that runs between the frame rails right in front of the water pump. When you try to pull the cam, it hits this piece of the frame.
You are right. I have an '84. The cross member is down below the vibration damper. An 8" damper will hit on the front crossmember. That puts it well below the camshaft. I didn't realize that C4 frames varied that much. Thanks.
You are right. I have an '84. The cross member is down below the vibration damper. An 8" damper will hit on the front crossmember. That puts it well below the camshaft. I didn't realize that C4 frames varied that much. Thanks.
RACE ON!!!
Just to clarify, I think you are refering to the engine crossmember or cradle as some call it. They are the same. The piece that is in the way is the bar that the cup is sitting on in the pic.
Unscrew the single nut on the bottom of each motor mount. Put a board under the oil pan. Jack the engine to clear the cross member. It only needs about 3/4 of an inch to clear.
Good luck
Been awhile...on my 90, I belive that I loosened only one motor mount bolt and jacked up the engine a small amount (which tilts it to the side). It was very easy.
Just to clarify, I think you are refering to the engine crossmember or cradle as some call it.
That IS (the engine crossmember or cradle) that I was referring to. I thought that WAS the front cross member. Didn't the original post refer to the cross member? Thank you for the pic. That support on the pic looks high, to me, to be in the way of the camshaft. I don't think I have that support. Since I've never removed my cam, I'm not sure. Either way, I have been enlightened. Thank you.
So seems that the frames DO vary quite a bit over the years. I recall reading several posts in the past where posters have had to jack the engine for the needed clearance. In my case, the 86 doesn't require the engine to be raised to remove the cam.
Just another reason why it's so important to include the year of the car in the initial post. That'll save a lot of confusion.
did not need to lift motor on mine, loosened oil pan bolts, lowered pan in front slightly all came apart easily w/only one hitch-- balancer puller hitting power steering line , loosened and removed, the rest was a piece of cake!
I Just notched mine about a quarter of an inch last week while taking out the old cam and installing the new one......I guess I could have just lifted the motor a bit, but since im sure this wont be the last cam this motor sees, I did it to make cam swaps a little easier in the future......on top of that , when I went to degree the cam, and install the degree wheel on the crank, I also had to slot the bottom section directly under where the balancer would go to give it the needed clearance......the smallest degree wheel I found was a comp cam model (9in) in diameter, and it still needed to be slotted .....
Last edited by 95NOSvette; Nov 23, 2005 at 10:51 PM.
[QUOTE=JAKE]So seems that the frames DO vary quite a bit over the years. I recall reading several posts in the past where posters have had to jack the engine for the needed clearance. In my case, the 86 doesn't require the engine to be raised to remove the cam.
Just another reason why it's so important to include the year of the car in the initial post. That'll save a lot of confusion.
Hello Jake,
It must very between production runs, mine is a late 86 vert I had to tilt the motor to get the cam out.
Well I got my old cam out and my ZZ9 in. After loosening the motor mounts and jacking the motor up it was a piece of cake. I got in on the group purchase from Exotic Muscle for headers so I had to take my 2 cats off, what a beeeatch !!!! I had to cut one of the cat mounts because there was no way you could get a wrench on it. Well I guess it's time to start putting her back together, I hope I remember where everthing goes.
Make sure you degree the cam if you want it to run as good as possible, In my experience,about half of the time their off more than a couple degrees and need adjustment
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