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Cant get 89 l98 to start. Has and holds 40 psi fuel pressure. Has spark, noid light flashes. ECM OK. Any thoughts? thanks
Does the car crank? Is the car manual? If it will not crank, and it is a manual, I would suggest "jumpering" the clutch safety switch and seeing if it will crank. I went through this about a month ago on mine. If auto, the neautral safety switch can cause the same issue.
Pull the hose off the MAF to ensure the engine is getting air. Check the spark timing with a timing light while someone cranks. Does the fuel pressure hold up while cranking? It should drop because the pump only runs for 2 seconds and turns back on when the oil pressure switch closes when the engine runs. Pressure should drop because the injectors are being pulsed and the fp is off. You can jump 12v to the fuel pump to force it to stay on while you crank which may allow the engine to start and run.
Thanks for everyones help. Disconn3ected MAF, TPS voltage is normal. How would the timing be off if dist not taken out and car ran before put away fora year. What about the EGR valve? Thanks again
Does the fuel pressure hold up while cranking? It should drop because the pump only runs for 2 seconds and turns back on when the oil pressure switch closes when the engine runs. Pressure should drop because the injectors are being pulsed and the fp is off.
Continued cranking, especially in a cold engine will build oil pressure to trigger the oil pressure switch and power the pump after a while.
Originally Posted by kopbet89c4
I'd check to see if your injector fuses are blown. That would definately cause a crank-but-no-start problem.
It would also cause a crank-but-no-noid light problem, too.
Originally Posted by david srour
Cant get 89 l98 to start. Has and holds 40 psi fuel pressure. Has spark, noid light flashes. ECM OK. Any thoughts? thanks
It isn't the EGR valve. If nothing has been touched since it ran last, and the timing light flashes indicating it has spark, I suspect that the fuel may have gummed up or gelled in the past year. Try squirting some gasoline into the TB to prime it and see if it doesn't at least pop, and try to run, on that limited amount of fuel.
Does the fuel pressure hold up while cranking? It should drop because the pump only runs for 2 seconds and turns back on when the oil pressure switch closes when the engine runs. Pressure should drop because the injectors are being pulsed and the fp is off.
When the ECM "sees" pulses from the HEI indicating that the engine is turning, it reativates the fuel pump relay. Besides, continued cranking, especially in a cold engine will build oil pressure to trigger the oil pressure switch and power the pump after a while.
Originally Posted by kopbet89c4
I'd check to see if your injector fuses are blown. That would definately cause a crank-but-no-start problem.
It would also cause a crank-but-no-noid light problem, too.
Originally Posted by david srour
Cant get 89 l98 to start. Has and holds 40 psi fuel pressure. Has spark, noid light flashes. ECM OK. Any thoughts? thanks
It isn't the EGR valve. If nothing has been touched since it ran last, and the timing light flashes indicating it has spark, I suspect that the fuel may have gummed up or gelled in the past year. Try squirting some gasoline into the TB to prime it and see if it doesn't at least pop, and try to run, on that limited amount of fuel.
David: Assuming you have the stock GM Multec injectors, I would recommend you check the resistance of each injector with a good ohm meter. Check them cold and warm the engine up and checke them again. Each injector should be between 16 to 17 ohms. If an injector reading is below 15, you have a coil that is shorting out. The 89 model has a high failure injector rate due the fact the injector coils are cooled by the engine fuel......and the coating on the coil wires breaks down and creates a short. A shorted injector will inject a reduced amout of fuel regardless of the fuel pressure. My 89 had three shorted injectors at 40k miles. Shorted injectors can also create problems in your ECM due to increased current flow.
SAM
An update on my problem. I said I had spark, but when I used spark checker instead of old plug I didnt have a spark. When I disconnect 4 wire connector I have spark. According to flow chart this means bad pick up coil. Does this sound right. Do pick up coils go bad frequently.
thanks for eveyones help
They do go bad, like anything else-and if the trouble shooting flow chart says it's bad-that should answer your question. Lots off guys here have had to replace it after pulling there hair out.
OK, Still can't get this puppy to start. Just to refresh everyones memory car was parked in running condition about a year ago-outside. Fuel tank was full of water. This was cleaned out and pump, screen and filter replaced. Also had a ruptured fuel line from water freezing in line-fixed w/ patch. Good fuel pressure at rail schrader. Has good spark, timing seems right. No codes showing. Anything else I should look for? Fuel pressure holds at 40 PSI. Power to injectors and resistance check is good.
thanks for the help!
Is it possible to remove one injector leaving it pluged in and disconnect coil wire, then crank the motor? Just to verify spray.
I did this on a Honda Accord once, I could see how the injectors were spraying.
You are going to have one hellava time removing an injector from you 89 Vette to do a test! You are either not getting fuel into the cylinders or the ignition timing is not correct. It would be interesting to understand how the fuel tank became filled with water??? This may be a clue to your problem!
Here are some things to try as you seem to have covered the bases:
1. Remove the MAF from the throttle body. Have someone sit in the car. Take a teaspoon of gasoline and dump it into the throttle body (with butterfly valves open). Have the dude inside the car attempt to start the engine. You may want to hold the MAF to the throttle body while this is happening. If it starts , runs for a few seconds and dies, you are not getting fuel to the cylinders. If it does not start for a short time, you have the ignition timing off location as you stated you are getting a good spark....and I assume this is to all 8 cylinders.
2. Check the timing while cranking the engine.
3. Check the plug wires for proper placement into the distributor cap. If the #1 cylinder plug is not in the correct position on the dist cap, you timing cannot be correct.
SAM
Unplugged MAF- no start
TPS voltage check good
EGR checks out
Timing is right.
Would VATS problem cause this and not throw code?
It seems like its not getting fuel.
Havent tried dumping gas in air horn.
Thanks!