long tube header install
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
From: Lancaster CA
long tube header install
i have a set of hooker long tubes, and i am going to be installing them soon. anyone have any tips? do i have to install these from the top or bottom? it practically looks like i have to remove the engine to get these things in. any help would be appreciated.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,524
Likes: 10
From: Lufkin Texas
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Mines an L98 so there may be some differences with the LT1. On the L98 I went in from the top on drivers side. Then removed the starter and went in from the bottom on the passenger side (AC side). Here's my best advise, put the headers in loosly and dont tighten the flange bolts until you go underneath and start the collector bolts to your Y or H pipe (whichever) and dont tighten them either. Then go back up top and tighten the flange bolts good. Then do back under and tighten the collectors. You see, alot of times it's very difficult to align the collectors with the headers tightened. This gives you some slight play if needed to align.
Also, on the L98 the dreaded #8 bolt is a giant PITA. Because once the header is in place theres ZERO clearance for your hand to get the bolt started so Hooker slots this hole on the header flange so you can start the bolt (gasket in place) by hand before putting the header in place, then slip the headers into place onto that bolt. Then start all the other flange bolts. Sometimes some creativity is in order to bend cut weld or fashion a custom wrench to access and tighten the said dreaded #8 flange bolt. Often, the starter removal helps you access it from underneath.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
Also, on the L98 the dreaded #8 bolt is a giant PITA. Because once the header is in place theres ZERO clearance for your hand to get the bolt started so Hooker slots this hole on the header flange so you can start the bolt (gasket in place) by hand before putting the header in place, then slip the headers into place onto that bolt. Then start all the other flange bolts. Sometimes some creativity is in order to bend cut weld or fashion a custom wrench to access and tighten the said dreaded #8 flange bolt. Often, the starter removal helps you access it from underneath.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
Large Impressive Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 65,811
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
On an LT1, you'll have no problem sliding them up from the bottom. I've not installed Hookers but every other header I've done has slipped right up w/o a snag. Some people have had to reverse the motor mount through bolt on one side with these, the driver's side I believe, for clearance. You'll need to remove the plugs and the temperature gauge sender.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 698
Likes: 1
From: louseyville Ky
Originally Posted by Corvette Kid NC
On an LT1, you'll have no problem sliding them up from the bottom. I've not installed Hookers but every other header I've done has slipped right up w/o a snag. Some people have had to reverse the motor mount through bolt on one side with these, the driver's side I believe, for clearance. You'll need to remove the plugs and the temperature gauge sender.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,641
Likes: 13
From: Slidell Louisiana
Originally Posted by Corvette Kid NC
On an LT1, you'll have no problem sliding them up from the bottom. I've not installed Hookers but every other header I've done has slipped right up w/o a snag. Some people have had to reverse the motor mount through bolt on one side with these, the driver's side I believe, for clearance. You'll need to remove the plugs and the temperature gauge sender.
It was harder to get the old factory exhaust out than the headers in!!
