Can the damper be removed with a regular wheel puller? I understand that installation requires special care and proper tools.

 

I mean gear puller not wheel puller. SORRY

 

What engine? L98 or LTx? What are you trying to accomplish?

If it's an LT1/LT4, the damper is a two-piece item. If you're trying to get the Opti off, you can remove the damper, but leave the hub in place. If you're trying to remove the timing cover or front crank seal, you'll have to remove the hub also.

To get the damper off of an LT1/LT4:

1. Raise the front of the car high enough that you can get under it.

2. Remove the three bolts that secure the damper to the hub. Leave the large center bolt in place.

3. Mark the damper and hub so that you know how it came off, if it's not visibly marked already.

4. Get under the car with a long steel rod, wooden dowel, or some such item (I use a long pry bar which is actually a huge Snap-On screwdriver), and a large rubber mallet.

5. Place the tip of the rod/dowel/bar against the rear face of the damper, as far toward the center as possible (place it so that the tip is resting alongside of the damper hub, but not on the back of the hub itself). You do NOT want the tip to be on the outer ring of the damper.

6. Whack the free end of the rod/dowel/bar with the mallet, and you should be able to get it to pop loose.

It may help to apply some penetrating oil to the damper/hub interface before you try to drive it off of there. If you can soak it a few times, over the course of a few days, it'll help.

After you get the damper off, clean the rust and crud from the damper and hub's mating surfaces, and apply a very thin layer of anti-seize compound before you re-install the damper. This will make it much easier to remove the damper next time.

If you're trying to remove the hub also, there's a special Kent-Moore tool for the job. If you try to do this without the Kent-Moore tool, be extremely careful to ensure that you don't damage the internal threads in the snout of the crankshaft, or you'll have bigger problems than you have now.

If it's an L98, I can't help you. I don't have one of those.

Be well,

SJW

 

Thanks for the info but I should have posted also that it's a L98

 

You REALLY should post the year when asking questions. On a GEN I engine, NO. I am assuming that gear puller has jaws that grip the O.D. of the gear (damper). The outer ring of the damper is retained by an elastomer (rubber) ring which is what allows for the dampening of vibrations. Pulling on the outer ring is like to pull the non-removable ring off of the damper assembly. You MUST use the three puller holes, drilled and tapped into the hub of the damper, for pulling.

You can "rent" a proper puller from one of the chain, auto parts stores for $0.00, or buy one for $15.00 or less.

RACE ON!!!

 

Also, depending on the year of the car, you may have to unscrew one of the power steering lines that connect to the rack directly in front of the damper.

Sometimes there is interference between that line and the puller when you try to connect the puller to the damper. Unscrewing the line and moving it a little results in the clearance you need.

Make sure you have something to catch PS fluid in since that line will drip fluid while it's disconnected. Don't forget to top off.

Jake

 

i bought a damper puller in the early 70's and have definately got my moneys worth out of it. the box it came in, and several replacements have come and gone, but the puller and bolts are still as good today as then. one piece any gearhead should have in their tool box.

 

Thanks guys. Will pickup a puller today.

 

[QUOTE=The Bus]Thanks guys. Will pickup a puller today.[/QUOTE

AutoZone rents them for free also. You just leave a deposit and it's refunded to you when you return the puller.

BTW, you should use an installer to put the damper back on.

Jake

 

I have a 95 LT1 with a leaking front seal. It looks like I have to raise the engine to clear the frame crossmember so I can use a puller. My question is how do I raise the engine high enough without having to disconnect the trans and everything else. It looks like it would be wise to go ahead and pull the motor?
Any comments or sugestions are greatly needed.

Allen

 

I dont think you need to raise the engine at all.It looks close but the frame is not in the way.If Im wrong,someone correct me.But as far as I know from the forum,you dont need to do that to pull the damper off.
Ill let the LT1 guys chime in...also Ive seen them say they knocked the damper off with a hammer and block of wood after removing the pulley and etc.

 

[QUOTE=JAKE]I agree...I ended up buying an installer tool to keep in my tool box.NO ONE in my town had a installer tool for rent,sale or etc.They try to tell you to use the large washers and single bolt to screw/press the new damper back on.
That wasnt gonna do it for me.

The damper Installer I bought is made by moroso.Its about 30-40 bucks in most racing/engine catalogs but is the perfect tool to have for that kind of job.
It allowed me to press the new damper on with super ease.Im also a tool guy and like to have tools just in case down the road I ever need to use it again.Also,many tool kits like these give you hardware to use on other engines such as ford,chrylser and etc.

 

I just ordered a 95 shop service manual from zip products. Then I noticed the thread from bogus about helm. Is the one I ordered the same? Maybe I should cancel it and order the helm version.

 

You need a standard crows foot puller to get the balancer off a gen1 chevy. Bolts in the kit thread into it in 3 places. I can't speak for the later years, 87 up.

Remove the center bolt and washer first.




You can rent it free at autozone or kragen.

 

Harbor freight has the puller for $10.99. And my damper is off!

 

I made my installer for about $7.00. I started with a truck spring, center bolt.

RACE ON!!!

 

Good point bringing up the install... most people use a BFH or pull it on with the crank bolt.

The install tool consists of a long bolt or alllthread screwed all the way into the crank hole, and another nut with washers/bearings between the nut and the balancer... you turn the nut to pull the balancer back onto the crank. Do NOT turn the bolt/allthread in the crankshaft, as you can damage the threads or strip it.

They don't usually sell this tool at autozone, but you can put it together yourself easily at the hardware store.

 

This is the way to install ! Mine is exactly the same except it came w/various thread adapters and a big steal socket looking piece to install crank sprockets/dampners with, this is one of the best investments I have made.

 

I agree with CC and mseven as well...that also looks like the one I bought but mine had more hardware in the package for other engines.I did have to disconnect one of the metal PS lines on the top of the steering rack to gain a little clearance to use the tool.Wasnt a problem to do that either.

One good thing about the proper tool,the tip part threads into the crank snout and then stays put.The fatter end allows the bearing race simply screw/push against the damper and it slides on super easy.Theres really no chance of messing up the crank snout threads.

Alot of engines get some rust in there and I had a problem with another car with a similar set up for the power steering pulley.The pulley was pressed on (similar to the damper) and the bolt/washer install piece that came with it stripped the threads out rendering the pump useless since I couldnt get the pulley pressed on.

Did NOT want to take a chance stripping the threads inside the crank snout.

Btw I like CFI's home made damper idea with the spring.Thats making one super cheap and sturdy too.