C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

$14.99 performance improver

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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 05:38 AM
  #21  
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Absolutely as long as you prevent it to enter the box. It´s made for the contacts only. If applied, mate/demate a few times as well in order to rubb the contacts. That makes residues leave the contact surface.
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 05:56 AM
  #22  
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Nico, thanks for clarifying the contacts of a relay, I was referring to the electrical connections of the relay(s) not the actual contacts.
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 06:14 AM
  #23  
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There it´s fine, I use it as well there. Sorry for the misunderstanding
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 10:34 AM
  #24  
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From: eville in
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Originally Posted by Lone Ranger
For price comparison, Advance Auto Parts sells a 15ml bottle of Stabilant 22A, relabeled by Standard Motor Products as SL5, for $67.99

Stabilant 22A is good stuff, but very pricey.
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 01:30 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by comp
Yep. Here's the Stabilant stuff, good but expen$ive:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...partnumber=SL5
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 01:44 PM
  #26  
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Nico, its important to note that this stuff enhances conductivity but does not cross conduct between pins or terminals.

The makers of Stabilant go so far as to say that their product will make any electrical terminal/pin connection the equivalent of a soldered connection, all while not cross conducting. Apparently has to do with the unique molecular qualities and attributes of the polyphenol ethers used in Stabilant.

Caig company line on why their product is better suited in some applications than Stabilant or as they refer to Stabilant, "products containing polyphenol ethers":

http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.12/cat...2014/KB.218/.f

Same thing here, but they plug Stabilant 22 in in place of "products containing polyphenol ethers.":

http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.12/cat...1977/KB.215/.f
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 01:50 PM
  #27  
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Nico, I understand what you're saying about contacts. I am a bit of a layman so I probably mis-used the term contact when I should have been calling them pins and terminals, i.e. the pins and terminals inside the connectors for a given sensor where the pigtail from the wiring harness plugs into.

Sorry for any confusion. :o

Last edited by Lone Ranger; Dec 2, 2005 at 01:53 PM.
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 04:25 PM
  #28  
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Thanks for the reply. I fully agree that the material SHOULD not give cross conduction. I also am confident that it doesn´t under normal circumstances. But ALL materials give cross conduction, some very, very little, others more. A lot (most) materials can absorb moist in time or change characteristics due to the presence of other chemicals. I do not have information how much moist can be absorbt by polyphenol ethers, if are stable in the environment underneath the car, if they are attacked by hydro carbons and plastic weakeners etc. Most plastic insulators loose some weakeners that can attack other chemicals and plastics. The plastics become brittle and moist can enter. Than they can become very weakly conducting. Really most plastics do and all liquids and plastics have resistance, some inmensely high though. For almost all applications no problem, but for very high impedances it may become a problem in time. Reason why these applications often use special plastics like Teflon as insulator. The O2 sensor has a very high impedance. In combination with the bad environment underneath the car, fumes and temperature, I can immagine that it is not adviced to use contact cleaners there. And taking into account the very high impedance, there is no reason to lower the resistance to very low levels either. An example of change in time is the moist repellant plastic spray that is sold for ignition systems. Work great. But after a year or less, one can find a white plastic like layers coming loose that can absorb moist and hide dirt underneath. And the result is much worse than without the spray. The material has been changed in time.
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 05:19 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Lone Ranger
Nico, I understand what you're saying about contacts. I am a bit of a layman so I probably mis-used the term contact when I should have been calling them pins and terminals, i.e. the pins and terminals inside the connectors for a given sensor where the pigtail from the wiring harness plugs into.

Sorry for any confusion. :o
No worries mate, i knew exactly what you ment.
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Old Dec 31, 2005 | 12:43 AM
  #30  
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replying so I don't misplace this thread.
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Old Dec 31, 2005 | 01:27 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Lone Ranger
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

http://www.caig.com

This stuff is very similar to Stabilant 22A, but much less expensive.

I have used the DeoxIt and DeoxIT ProGold on most of the sensor terminals and sockets on my '95 with noticeable seat of the pants results, and the contacts were not oxidized to begin with-- I believe the conductivity enhancement produced by the DeoxIt products is responsible. The main sensor terminals it will make a difference on is MAF and MAP.

I also applied it to the MAF terminals/sockets on the 2003 Crown Vic I drive and it made a noticeable difference, a low end torque improvement that is apparent when accelerating from a stop every time.

I even used it on the MAF contacts of the wife's new diesel VW beetle(less than five thousand miles on the clock), and it an improvement is noticed there as well.

It does not cross-conduct. No SES/CEL lights tripped, no codes tripped. I only mention this because spraying down the interior of the sensor connector socket and the terminals in the pigtail from the wire harness leaves an oily residue, but this is how the product works. The twin pack sold by Radio Shack are small spray bottles, net weight 14g each and come each with a red spray tube that attaches to the spray nozzle to aid in directing the spray where intended.

The temperature range of the standard DeoxIt product is -34C to 200C (-29F to 392F) making it suitable for under-hood automotive use. ProGold goes a little wider @ -45C to 245C. ProGold is recommended for dissimilar metals in contact and tin plated contacts. Standard DeoxIt is more general purpose cleaner/deoxidizer and protectant with conductivity improving qualities.

The only contacts it should NOT be used on is oxygen sensor contacts. I don't know why, but I have found several admonishments not to use a conductivity enhancer like Stabilant, OxGuard, or DeoxIt on oxygen sensor contacts while I was researching this category of products.



Some will call BS, but I know how well it has worked on the three cars I have used it on.
No BS deoxit in the pen form really works on desolving oxidation and this all make perfect sence to me. Im going to clean those contacts tomorrow for the heck of it as I already have the deoxit pen.
Excellent Tip!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old Dec 31, 2005 | 02:52 PM
  #32  
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There are two reasons why deoxit says to not use their product on oxygen sensors. Deoxit leaves a residual oil on the surface and if used in a high oxygen environment, oil will ignite in the prescense of oxygen. Second, if used on engine oxygen sensors, the sensors are in contact with the exhaust manifold and run at a high temperature. This high temperature on the sensor contacts will carbonize the residue oil left and degrade the electrical connection. I have some deoxit and I am going to measure the connection resistance of some 20 year old connectors before and after deoxit. I will report my measurements. I have a 4 wire ohmeter and I can measure easily to a milliohm (.001 ohm). Be back in a little bit.
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Old Dec 31, 2005 | 03:07 PM
  #33  
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I'm fairly active on FerrariChat, and the 348's well known to be riddled with electrical gremlins. Owners who've used the Stabilant 22A on all of their electrical contacts report -Zero- problems after...a night and day difference. That said, if a product works for them, it should work for us. If this is a cheaper alternative to Stabilant 22A, it's worth a shot. FWIW, if anyone is interested in S22A, I believe I know of a place (Fchat Supporting Vendor) where it can be had for less than at Advance Auto.

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Old Dec 31, 2005 | 04:17 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by jfb
There are two reasons why deoxit says to not use their product on oxygen sensors. Deoxit leaves a residual oil on the surface and if used in a high oxygen environment, oil will ignite in the prescense of oxygen. Second, if used on engine oxygen sensors, the sensors are in contact with the exhaust manifold and run at a high temperature. This high temperature on the sensor contacts will carbonize the residue oil left and degrade the electrical connection. I have some deoxit and I am going to measure the connection resistance of some 20 year old connectors before and after deoxit. I will report my measurements. I have a 4 wire ohmeter and I can measure easily to a milliohm (.001 ohm). Be back in a little bit.
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 11:09 AM
  #35  
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I couldn't find the female connector last night, but I found them this morning. Also, my detector for the 4 wire ohmeter is apart, so maybe today I'll be able to make some measurements, otherwise I'll make this measurement at work on Jan.3, 2006 and post my results. Stay tuned!
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 12:26 PM
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 04:05 PM
  #37  
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Umm... where the pins connect to the O2 sensor pigtail socket is well away from the exhaust pipes, over 6 inches from it if I remember right, and the pigtail on each is secured to the a mounting bracket to keep it from flopping around. The mounting brackets are secured to the engine block (again, if I remember right).

Where the connectors are mounted shouldn't exceed the max operating temp of the DeoxIt which is stated to be 240 degrees Celcius (464 degrees Fahrenheit).

There is the potential issue of heat xfer along the sensor wires to the pins that way, however, but I doubt it gets the sensor wiring in excess of 464 degrees Fahrenheit.

Originally Posted by jfb
There are two reasons why deoxit says to not use their product on oxygen sensors. Deoxit leaves a residual oil on the surface and if used in a high oxygen environment, oil will ignite in the prescense of oxygen. Second, if used on engine oxygen sensors, the sensors are in contact with the exhaust manifold and run at a high temperature. This high temperature on the sensor contacts will carbonize the residue oil left and degrade the electrical connection. I have some deoxit and I am going to measure the connection resistance of some 20 year old connectors before and after deoxit. I will report my measurements. I have a 4 wire ohmeter and I can measure easily to a milliohm (.001 ohm). Be back in a little bit.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 12:50 PM
  #38  
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I measured the resistance of a pair of Cinch Jones S404 (socket) and P404(plug) connectors that I have that are 20 years old and never plugged together, with and without DeOxit D5 applied. I have a 4 wire ohmeter and can measure below one milliohm, .001 ohms. These connectors are rated at 15 amps and have 4 pins. I measured one pin plugged together and then sprayed DeOxit D5 on the male pin and the female socket and plugged them back together. I also measured the other three dry pins and then sprayed those three and measured them again. I also unplugged the connectors and replugged them together, measuring them each cycle to determine if their connection resistance was repeatable.
Here is what I found. First pin dry measured 1.6 mOhms (milliohms) and after spraying, 1.0 mOhms. The dry pins measured 2.0, 2.3, and 2.4 mOhms and after spraying, (in the same order) 0.9 mOhms, 1.1 mOhms, and 1.2 mOhms. All resistance measurements were repeatable within 0.1 mOhms.
I conclude that DeOxit increases connection conductivity (lowers resistance). If it helps your driveability, you got your moneys worth and I am happy that their advertising (which is why I bought their brand) agrees with measured performance.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 06:25 PM
  #39  
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Great info. thanks. I`ll be off to RS in the AM
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 01:52 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by JrRifleCoach
What the heck. I got acetone in the gas..... I'll give it a try.
acetone? aint that the same stuff in my daughters finger nail polish remover? is everybody saying the air foil trick has been tricked? all bull aside i will be in line at radio shack. thanks for the info.makes sense to me.
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