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I have an 86E with cast iron heads,and stock exhaust. Can anyone recommend a header,part number, and any comments on the installation. I plan on keeping the egr, air pump ,and cat.converter,and installing something from the cat back. Any advice would be appreciated.
Hi. Roger. I have an 85 with cast iron heads. I bought the TPIS coated headers. They are quite easy to install they have installation description on their page. With these headers you can use all your stock aggregates as alternator etc without changing anything
Were there any issues with clearances on the sparkplugs or starter.
if you read my website you would know, my car is the same as yours
plugs no, starter well....youre better off replacing the starter with a 88-91 starter or other ministarter, as it will be nearly impossible to get off the 84-87 starter once the headers are bolted on, however you can leave it on.
if you read my website you would know, my car is the same as yours
plugs no, starter well....youre better off replacing the starter with a 88-91 starter or other ministarter, as it will be nearly impossible to get off the 84-87 starter once the headers are bolted on, however you can leave it on.
My only thought is to be sure to get headers that are intended for the heads you're running.
If you have straight plug heads, get headers meant for them. Then angle for angle.
A friend of mine bought headers for his early 86 which were designed for straight plug heads but installed them on angle plug AFR heads. He had spark plug clearance problems up the Ying-Yang.
I installed the same headers on my early 86 (but I had opted for straight plug Edelbrock heads) and they fit like a charm.
As to size, I believe 1-5/8" headers are best for an engine under 400 CID. Over 400, I'd go with 1-3/4". Lingenfelter has a chart listing the recommended size tubes; you might want to track it down.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Stainless Works GP is still on through the end of the year. This is a killer deal for stainless steel headers as well as connectors and cats, if needed. Check in the C4 parts for sale section for the thread with the link.
Hi Roger.
There were no difficulties with the sparkplugs. I use Rapidfires. I do have good sparkplug wires though that manage much heat. I think it is some sort of silicone. They are ones that are used for racing I don't know the brand but my mechanic said they were the best. I have had them for two years now and no problems.
The only thing I had to do extra was. Grinding a millimeter off the support rod for the alternator so that it did not touch the primaries. Very easy with a file.
Then one bolt I had to have umbraco or torx because it was too near the primary. Might have been for cylinder four or five. I cannot remember.. The starter was no problem at all. The distance from the starter is good.. If ypou want to have the air to the cat you have to make a tubing or rubberhose. i did a rubber hose that managed high temp. Everything works great.
I had some problems with the oxygen sensor working so far from the cylinders that is going into closed loop in idle after a longer time. I put in a heated oxygen sensor which made everthing great. These are my obstacles. nothing else. Just follow the installation instructions on the TPIS page on the net.
Good Luck
PS the primaries are 1 3/4". The coating has been top. I have no discolouring they only have been slightly more mat (not so shiny) where it is at the hotest. The temp is astonishing low from the headers in the engine room .
Hi Roger.
There were no difficulties with the sparkplugs. I use Rapidfires. I do have good sparkplug wires though that manage much heat. I think it is some sort of silicone. They are ones that are used for racing I don't know the brand but my mechanic said they were the best. I have had them for two years now and no problems.
The only thing I had to do extra was. Grinding a millimeter off the support rod for the alternator so that it did not touch the primaries. Very easy with a file.
Then one bolt I had to have umbraco or torx because it was too near the primary. Might have been for cylinder four or five. I cannot remember.. The starter was no problem at all. The distance from the starter is good.. If ypou want to have the air to the cat you have to make a tubing or rubberhose. i did a rubber hose that managed high temp. Everything works great.
I had some problems with the oxygen sensor working so far from the cylinders that is going into closed loop in idle after a longer time. I put in a heated oxygen sensor which made everthing great. These are my obstacles. nothing else. Just follow the installation instructions on the TPIS page on the net.
Good Luck
PS the primaries are 1 3/4". The coating has been top. I have no discolouring they only have been slightly more mat (not so shiny) where it is at the hotest. The temp is astonishing low from the headers in the engine room .
I have an 86E with cast iron heads,and stock exhaust. Can anyone recommend a header,part number, and any comments on the installation. I plan on keeping the egr, air pump ,and cat.converter,and installing something from the cat back. Any advice would be appreciated.
"Stainless Works" offers headers for the 1985-1991 L98 C4. They feature 1.625" mandrel bent primary tubes made from .065" wall thickness 304 stainless Steel & .375" thick laser cut stainless steel flanges. The headers include a 2.500" 304-stainless steel Y-pipe (requires some fabrication work to hook-up to the stock or aftermarket exhaust) & the AIR tubes & provisions for the O2 sensor. The "Stainless Works" part number is "C48591", they retail for $949.00, contact your favorite retailer/speed shop to place your order.
another thing to consider is that none of the headers offered are smog legal. those headers are smog legal on 84 to 85 vets only. if you are i state that doesn't smog then you are in luck, if not, Keep all of your old parts so that you can put them back on in case you do have to pass the sniffer test.
Hi Roger.
TPIS has changed the design so that the starter is no longer an issue. neither are the sparkplugs. I have no trouble with the. I have had them for two years without any buning and they are ok to get outeven from the cast iron heads. I have an 85 and that as far as I know is the same cast iron heads.
I strongly recommend coated headers as they keep the heat inside to a great extent. I have them coated and I was surpriced how cool the engine room were.
Hi Roger and BDSW . The TPIS heqders are normal coated steel headers. If i could have chosen I would have had stainless steel headers but coated due to the heat. Stainless steel get bue after a short while due to heat. The coating keep a nice surface even after years. But I would have chosen the stainless due to rust over years. When you drive there will be small stones denting the coating and there can be rust.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Originally Posted by 86VX1
another thing to consider is that none of the headers offered are smog legal. those headers are smog legal on 84 to 85 vets only. if you are i state that doesn't smog then you are in luck, if not, Keep all of your old parts so that you can put them back on in case you do have to pass the sniffer test.
No long tube C4 headers are smog legal in CA. Dunno about other states. Yeah yeah I know, 84-85 has no precats. Tell that to the Air Resources Board... they don't care. No manufacturer has yet paid for E.O. certification for longtubes on 84-85, even though some of the header complies in every other way.
A "smog" header and a "smog legal" header are two different things. A smog header implies it has A.I.R. fittings and an O2 bung, but doesn't mean it's certified for use in communist states.