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What did you do with all the + side connections that are behind the battery? Did you run two lines, one to the starter and one to the + side connections behind the battery?
I can probably figure it out when I finally commit to doing it, but if you have any pointers it would be great.
Did you just connect the alternator line to this + side behind the battery?
I actually left the original + battery cable in place ( Everything that was run to the starter, is still attached) then ran a new cable from the starter to the new Oddessey battery.
I did have to use some 3/4 pieces of wood to shim up the bottom of the storage compartment. Then I reinforced the bottom w/some thick plastic although I believe the fiberglass is plenty strong enough.
I'm not a drag racer so I don't have to worry about NHRA rules, I'm an autocrosser & as long as the battery is secure I'm good to go.
Its pretty common knowledge that higher and back is better for weight transfer, which I am SURE why Neverlift is installing mackey's up in the body and back as far as possible. This give the best of both worlds. Unfortunately I am not ready to part with the gas tank....yet.
I have been looking at the area right underneath the tank though. I am seriously considering making a "box" that would mount the battery right in that area. From the rear of the car it would be visible, but few would know what is in their, and about 1/2 of the box would not be visible....Probably the best route to go for weight transfer. I will have to see. I am sure the guys at work would weld me up a nice little setup that would look pretty trick and clean looking.
On the cutoff switch, yeah their is considerable confusion with these things. What we did with Dads in his chevelle is all the positive cables need to run to the switch. One side of the switch needs to handle the power from the alternator and cut any juice that it generates from the alternator. And the other side needs to feed the accessories and to the positive on the battery.
If you do it differently then yes the car will still run with the alternator power.
One side of the switch needs to handle the power from the alternator and cut any juice that it generates from the alternator. And the other side needs to feed the accessories and to the positive on the battery.
If you do it differently then yes the car will still run with the alternator power.
Correct. NHRA requires that the master cut off switch kills EVERYTHING. There are double pole, single throw master switches that have a separate, lower amperage, circuit for the alternator, only. Otherwise the alternator can be connected to the same terminal as the battery, positive cable.