I am currently storing my 1994 convertible for the winter. I would like to remove the battery but there is a component with some small hoses attached to it located just above the battery. I am not sure what this component is. Can the battery be removed without removing this component? If any one knows what it is I sure would like to know. Appreciate hearing from someone who has removed their battery.

 

don't remove that 'component'! That is your coolant fill tank. Instead, remove the fiberglass panel next to the battery. You will figure out which bolts to remove to get this panal off. There is a 10mm bolt at the bottom of the panl that will have to be loosened, but not removed(this bolt is kind of hidden between the panel and lower body molding, use a small open end 9mm or 10mm wrench to loosen this guy). The panel will slide off. Should only take 5 or 10 minitue to remove this panal. Then you can get at the battey and slide it out....

 

This site will help.

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2001...ttery/bat1.asp

The gizmo above the battery is the cruise control servo.....

 

 

All C4 batteries are removed by first taking off the left fender side panel. There are some special tools involved. You will need a torx bit or wrench to remove the inner fender bolts. Remove the 10mm bolt on top inside the door jamb and just loosen the 10mm bolt at the bottom by reaching up through the slot with an open end wrench. Due to close quarters in reaching the bottom bolt you might want to apply some tape strips over the edges the wrench might rub if you have nice paint.

 

..yeah, and I incorrectly said taht the gizmo was the coolant tank resevoir! You are correct, and I had a retard moment...for some odd **** reason, I was thinking about the passenger side....DOH!!

 

You've received good advice about how to remove the battery. I'd suggest you leave it in the car this winter, instead. If you keep it charged, either with a float charger (battery tender) or by connecting a regular charger for a couple of hours every week or two, it'll be ready for action in the spring. And even if you remove it, you should still keep it charged, as a lead acid battery will lose something like 1% of its charge daily even with no external load (drain) placed across it.

Recommendation: Leave the battery in the car and connected, and keep it well charged. This will preserve your radio/clock settings, keep your alarm system active, and allow you to avoid the hassle of removing the battery from the car, which is a bit of a nuisance on a C4.

The only time I'll remove the battery from my C4 is when it needs to be replaced or if I need to get it out of the way to get to something else.

Be well,

SJW

 

I would like to sympathize with you, but havibg never made a mistee ke...whay can I say.......

 

That is only suppose to happen on mondays

 

Thanks for the advice. Right now I am planning on leaving it in after reading was involved to remove it. Unfortuately the place where I am storing the car has no power. So I am planning on every 4 weeks on starting it up and let it run 20 to 30 minutes. It's either start it or remove the battery but I aggree with you it would be better to leave it in. I have disconnected the negative cable. What do you think of my plan??

 

Depending on the age/condition of your battery?

4 weeks = 30 days = 30% inherent discharge(according to SJW).....so you will have about 70% charge to work with....should be OK IMHO

You won't hurt anything by removing the neg. terminal......

Good Luck

 

The actual self-discharge rate of a lead acid battery depends upon several variables:

* Temperature (colder is better)

* Metallurgy of the plates (antimony is often added to enhance the mechanical strength of lead plates, but it increases the rate of self-discharge).

* The physical construction of the battery.

It's really not possible to speak in generalities (with any accuracy) about the self-discharge rate of lead-acid batteries. I tossed out 1% per day more to illustrate the point that batteries will discharge even with no external electrical connection, than to offer a specific number. Please don't take that 1% per day rate literally. The actual number could be anywhere from around 8% to 40% per month.

The relevant facts regarding storing lead/acid starter batteries are these:

1. They will discharge at some rate without any external load (drain) placed across them.

2. They will self-discharge far more slowly if stored at colder temperatures. Lead acid batteries will function better (deliver more current) when warm, but will last longer when stored cold.

3. They will discharge more quickly if there is an external load placed across them. For this reason, if it's not possible to keep the battery charge maintained during storage, it's better to disconnect any external loads from the battery.

4. Lead acid starter batteries will suffer from greatly reduced lifespan if they are allowed to discharge deeply. As few as ten deep-discharge cycles can render them useless. For applications where deep discharge cycles are expected, a deep-cycle battery is recommended, but deep-cycle batteries are not as well suited for starting duties (running starter motors), as they can't deliver high amounts of current as well as starter batteries can. Automotive batteries are starter batteries. Deep-cycle batteries are often used in marine applications such as for starting and running outboard engines that do not have charging sytems, or for running trolling motors.

5. Sulphation will occur in the battery if it is not kept charged.

6. The concentration of the electolyte weakens (turns to water) as the battery discharges. Consequently, a battery that is sufficiently discharged can freeze, which will destroy the battery.

In summary, it is best to store a lead-acid battery in a cold location with a float charger (battery tender) connected to provide a continuous maintenance charge.

In this particular situation, where a source of power is not present to run a charger, it would be preferable to remove the battery and store it in a cool location where a maintenance charge can be applied. Alternatively, it might be worth investigating some of the commercially available solar powered chargers. Just make sure the unit is in fact a float charger, and will not overcharge the battery.

If the battery is left in the vehicle while stored, and no maintenance charger is used, a charge could be applied using jumper cables from another vehicle, or the stored vehicle could be started and run periodically.

Starting the stored vehicle would cause some amount of additional drain of the battery prior to it being charged by the alternator -- this would be avoided by charging it from another vehicle via jumper cables.

If the stored vehicle is started for the purposes of charging the battery, it should be allowed to run long enough to bring the battery to a good state of charge, and to allow any condensed moisture to be vaporized and evacuated from the exhaust system, crankcase, etc.

Varying the engine speed occasionally while running the engine would probably also be a good idea, to enhance camshaft lubrication, rather than allowing the engine to idle for extended periods of time.

Be well,

SJW

 

Thanks to everyone for their battery replacement insight. I had no idea the work involved. I too need to replace my battery but I will wait for warmer months to get this done.