Newby questions
As you get braver and more comfortable you can give in deeper and deeper for more performance.
Some helpful suggestions are to follow proven setups and don't go out on limbs - they tend to break and expectations tend to fall short.
You can check out where I started in my website in my signiture and where I am today. Its a LOT of hard work and determination that leads to success. A lot of GOOD people helped me along the way and hopefully you can learn from some of my mistakes through reading my experience.
I have been fortune enough to have achieved all the goals I have set out to achieve with my car set each year, and hope you can do the same.
There's a lot of disagreement about thermostat temps, and you'll likely hear a lot of responses offering varying points of view on this. Others have posted data on this Forum that suggests the ideal running temperature, from the perspective of cylinder wall wear, is somewhere in the range of 175* to 180* F. I have installed a 160*F thermostat in my LT1, and have reprogrammed the ECM to kick the cooling fans on at lower temps (190*F/primary, 195*F/secondary, if I recall correctly). This keeps my LT1 running much cooler in hot weather under most conditions, and the lowest it ever runs (on the open road at ambient temps of around freezing) is 170*F, so I'm very pleased with this arrangement. Don't expect to notice any performance gains by lowering the operating temps, as you likely won't realize much, but it will give your cooling system quite a bit more headroom under most conditions before Really Bad Things happen (overheating).
If you decide to install a lower temp thermostat, be aware that the LT1 uses a specific thermostat, and it is NOT interchangeable with the far more common thermostat that was used on first-generation small-block Chevy engines. Many auto parts counter personnel are not aware of this. Make sure you get the correct part.
Also be aware that, in order for the lower-temp thermostat to have much effect, the ECM will need to be reprogrammed to kick the fans on at a lower temp. Reprogramming the ECM, on a '92 LTI, if I'm not mistaken, requires programming an EPROM, and installing it in the ECM. My '94 has flash ROM in the ECM, but I believe '94 was the first year for this.
Use Mobil 1 engine oil, as specified in your owner's manual.
If you're serious about spending any time under the hood of your new Vette, I strongly recommend you order a set of the Factory Service Manuals. You can get them from the publisher, Helm, Inc (www.helminc.com), or surf E-Bay for a good set of used manuals. Just make sure you get the ones with the red covers (the others are preliminary manuals, and will not be as complete or accurate as the final-release edition).
Welcome to the obsession.
Be well,
SJW

And yeah, also make sure it's performing as good as day 1 before you confuse the issue with aftermarket stuff.
However, here is a list of what worked for me and what did not.
1. Higher lift roller rockers and matching springs.
2. A custom chip designed specifically for your car along with a 160 t-stat. Now this one brings up a lot of controversy on this forum but let me just say. It did make a small difference for me at the track. (.10) Also, keep in mind that the factory T-stat is 180 and this is due to reverse flow of the engine. So a drop to 160 will still keep engine tempatures in the 170-180 range. The chip I used, I purchased used and it was made by fastchips. However, if I was to do it again I would go with www.pcmforless.com They are considerably cheaper, and in the future if you do other upgrades they will upgrade your chip for a miminal charge. And they are a supporting vendor of this forum.
Minor things that did not seem to show any improvement for me.
1. MSD6al box. I see no difference plugged in or not. But it does have a good rev limiter
2. Air Foil.
3. Aftermarket exhaust. I have tried Magnaflow and have seen no performance increase. Buy exhaust for the sound and looks but not for performance
4. 52mm Throttle Body. I have made back to back runs, and again, I see no improvement.
Things not so minor but really help.
1. Rear end gears. Exspecially if you have a automatic with 2.59 gears. My first change was to a set of 3.54 gears and in my opion this is one of the best bang for the buck changes to make. It makes the car much more responsive and more fun to drive.
2. A higher stall converter. This comes in very close to the rear gears as far as improving the car. IMO
3. Ported heads, a bigger cam, and long tube headers. I put these in one group since I did mine all in one step. Check out Nathans web page for a accurate, detailed, story as to the changes these make to a LT1. He does it step by step and at the very least provides some very interesting reading.
4. For drag racing, changing over to light wheels and tires. This saved 74 lbs of rotational weight on my car and seems to have helped by 1 to 2 tenths. These normally would run around 1400 to purchase new, but I got a steal on mine from forum member John Mackey.
There are a lot of other things, and I feel sure that others will wade in with them. Keep in mind that things that help the older version (84-91) dont always show the same results on the LT1 (92-96)
Good luck, enjoy, and keep in mind, the above is only my opinion!!
160 therm
oil change & tune up (it could use it anyway)
Custom chip
Upgraded differential (not sure exactly to what however)
Tires (need them anyway)
Hydraulic Clutch (could use it anyway)
Header Upgrade
I am really debating on modifying my heads. Part of me is just wanting to go for full on ***** to the wall max. power. However, part of me is in love with the idea of a stock engine, especially on a 92. Damn, descisions descisions. I am fine with my exhaust if it won't change the performance. Another thing I've thought after talking with a mechanic friend of mine is to have it straight piped. Opinions on that descision? Oh, and BTW, at this time I don't intend on racing this vehicle, just for my fun and pleasure. As if I need another hobby...
Once again I am VERY new to this and am having to keyword search half the things you are all listing
, thanks for bearing with me. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't a stall conterter only with automatic trans.? Thanks again for your help everyone.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Take your time, absorb as much info as possible before you tear into the car with a bunch of mods. Remember to always regard the car in its entirety as a complete system, rather than the sum of a pile of parts. Develop a sensible strategy that will combine modifications that complement each other, rather than just bolting on a bunch of assorted, unrelated items.
Be well,
SJW

i dont reccomend, its hard to have a conversation and youll go deaf trying to listen to music b/c youll have to turn it up so much to cover the exhaust.
another thing is keep some sort of offset mufflers on the car as this will keep your back pressure and torque. i gained a few ponies but lost performance with no torque. you can get around this with a good tune just know its gonna cost a pretty penny, about $300-600 for a dyno tune and remap
your best bang for buck for manual is HD 4.10s for your dana44 from www.ringpinion.com
Last edited by A BirdMan Converted; Dec 21, 2005 at 11:11 AM.
lt1 with all the bolts ons you can expect about 300rwhp
the most important thing is you don't want to do things twice..
ie: if you run nitrous you will have to change your spark plug and if you ran 4.10 gears it may be too much (wheell spin)...you get the idea
good luck











