stiff brake pedal
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 470
Likes: 1
From: Kingwood TX
stiff brake pedal
My brakes while functional are very stiff- I am 21 years old and holding the brake down at a long light gets tiring thats how much effort must be applied some of the time for a full/sustained stop. Depressing the brake while moving is also takes much more effort than in my dad's '92. This past summer we replaced the brake booster and just today bled all 4 brakes which seemed to have almost no benefit. Also, some of the time NOT all of the time there is a distinctive "whooooosh" sound coming from under the hood. Does it sound like a bad master cylinder or what might the problem be?
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,923
Likes: 0
From: GA
Originally Posted by WEH 2000C5
Also, some of the time NOT all of the time there is a distinctive "whooooosh" sound coming from under the hood. Does it sound like a bad master cylinder or what might the problem be?
Former Vendor
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,204
Likes: 6
From: St Marys PA
looks like you have the common cracks brake booster problem. Good new is its not real tough to fix yourself.
I highly recommend that you go to NAPA and get a METAL brake booster. I did not the first time and replaced the booster with a plastic one that again cracked a year later. This time I put a napa metal one on the car and the brakes have NEVER been so good....its amazing the difference between the plastic and metal one. And I only pull about 7" of vacuum at idle with my car! Can't imagine the brakes if I had more.
The booster unbolts from under the dash, two nuts that are kinda tricky to get at, but you can with a long extension and a swivel. Think they are 13mm. The master cylinder unbolts from the booster with again 13mm bolts if I am not mistaken and you can just pull it gentle away to create enough clearance to remove the booster.
Hope this helps.
I highly recommend that you go to NAPA and get a METAL brake booster. I did not the first time and replaced the booster with a plastic one that again cracked a year later. This time I put a napa metal one on the car and the brakes have NEVER been so good....its amazing the difference between the plastic and metal one. And I only pull about 7" of vacuum at idle with my car! Can't imagine the brakes if I had more.
The booster unbolts from under the dash, two nuts that are kinda tricky to get at, but you can with a long extension and a swivel. Think they are 13mm. The master cylinder unbolts from the booster with again 13mm bolts if I am not mistaken and you can just pull it gentle away to create enough clearance to remove the booster.
Hope this helps.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 506
Likes: 12
From: Savannah GA
Don't go for the cheap AutoZone, Advance Auto parts they look like crap.
If your handy enough you can see if the diaphram is just split somewhere. The booster is only held together by the two nuts under the master cylinder studs. You can replace the diaphram for less than $50.
JS
If your handy enough you can see if the diaphram is just split somewhere. The booster is only held together by the two nuts under the master cylinder studs. You can replace the diaphram for less than $50.
JS
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,036
Likes: 13
From: Edmonton AB
Originally Posted by WEH 2000C5
This past summer we replaced the brake booster
and just today bled all 4 brakes
and just today bled all 4 brakes
ago.
I think we need more info about
- what prompted the initial replacement
- what booster was used then
- what the result was
and ect.
.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 470
Likes: 1
From: Kingwood TX
We replcd booster with new metal can ,problem solved. Now we have to shorten booster stroke. See next posting. Learn something new & pertinent here everyday . The wonders of the forum & the people who make it so.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 145
Likes: 0
From: South Florida
How did you guys get NAPA to order you a metal booster? Was it a NAPA brand? I just called my local NAPA guy and he said he could only order an OEM rebuilt replacement from NAPA united and they would only send the OEM, so if it is plastic that is what he would get. Did you get a rebuilt unit? How much was it?
Thanks
Thanks
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,592
Likes: 13
From: USA
Originally Posted by jsinga
Don't go for the cheap AutoZone, Advance Auto parts they look like crap.
If your handy enough you can see if the diaphram is just split somewhere. The booster is only held together by the two nuts under the master cylinder studs. You can replace the diaphram for less than $50.
JS
If your handy enough you can see if the diaphram is just split somewhere. The booster is only held together by the two nuts under the master cylinder studs. You can replace the diaphram for less than $50.
JS
Former Vendor
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,204
Likes: 6
From: St Marys PA
Originally Posted by 88 Coupe
How did you guys get NAPA to order you a metal booster? Was it a NAPA brand? I just called my local NAPA guy and he said he could only order an OEM rebuilt replacement from NAPA united and they would only send the OEM, so if it is plastic that is what he would get. Did you get a rebuilt unit? How much was it?
Thanks
Thanks
Tell them to get it in, its not metal, don't pay for it. They will send it back.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,204
Likes: 6
From: St Marys PA
Originally Posted by WEH 2000C5
We replcd booster with new metal can ,problem solved. Now we have to shorten booster stroke. See next posting. Learn something new & pertinent here everyday . The wonders of the forum & the people who make it so.
WHen you have the booster off, there is a small threaded nose on the rod that comes through the firewall. You need to play with that so you have "a little" play in the peddle when its first touch it, before it starts moving the cylinder in the mastercylinder.
Its tough to get it set and if you extend it too far, your brakes will be on all the TIME! NOT GOOD> After you think you have it where it needs to be, then jack up a corner of the car and make sure your wheels can be freely spun. If there is resistance, then you have it too far out.
You want around 1/8 to 1/4 inch play(movement) in the brake peddle before it start feeling resistance. Its really a preference thing, as long as its not loading the brakes at rest.
To the rest here, telling you now, my brakes were NEVER as good as they are now even with the little bit of vacuum I make iwth my motor as when I changed to the metal booster. Its a MILLION times more touchy. I drove Jerkyboys vette with the C5 brakes and about died how good they worked, he too has a metal booster. Shortly after driving his I changed mine to a metal can, and to be honest, feel wise they felt the same! Now not saying my car from 60mph to 0mph would stop the same, but it was a HUGE improvement. HIGHLY RECOMMEND the conversion.
Last edited by ski_dwn_it; Dec 21, 2005 at 10:26 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 14,604
Likes: 3
From: Glendale, AZ
Originally Posted by 88 Coupe
How did you guys get NAPA to order you a metal booster? Was it a NAPA brand? I just called my local NAPA guy and he said he could only order an OEM rebuilt replacement from NAPA united and they would only send the OEM, so if it is plastic that is what he would get. Did you get a rebuilt unit? How much was it?
Thanks
Thanks
http://www.hotrodsusa.com/store/boosterchev.html
this thread has more info
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...27&forum_id=48