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I just keep having one dillemma after another with what was to be a simple project. Oh well I guess I am going to eat it one piece at a time. Heres the latest.
I am using Crane gold non S/A roller rockers with guide plates.
While mocking it up it appears that for the best rocker arm geometry I need a slightly shorter than stock pushrod. However even with the stock length rod I am nearly bottoming out the rocker on the stud. I only have about 1/2 turn worth of adjustment. With the shorter length pushrod it wont even get tight against the pushrod before the rocker bottoms out on the stud. So I guess I need studs with thinner jam nuts to compensate for the height of the guideplate? This seems like the least expensive solution at this point unless someone can guide me differently.
I noticed in the summit catalog that the screw in studs for oldsmobile/chrysler have very thin jam nuts with the proper size threading above and below. Has anyone used these or can reccomend a stud with a thin jam nut? Or another solution
Thanks
Roy
I just keep having one dillemma after another with what was to be a simple project. Oh well I guess I am going to eat it one piece at a time. Heres the latest.
I am using Crane gold non S/A roller rockers with guide plates.
While mocking it up it appears that for the best rocker arm geometry I need a slightly shorter than stock pushrod. However even with the stock length rod I am nearly bottoming out the rocker on the stud. I only have about 1/2 turn worth of adjustment. With the shorter length pushrod it wont even get tight against the pushrod before the rocker bottoms out on the stud. So I guess I need studs with thinner jam nuts to compensate for the height of the guideplate? This seems like the least expensive solution at this point unless someone can guide me differently.
I noticed in the summit catalog that the screw in studs for oldsmobile/chrysler have very thin jam nuts with the proper size threading above and below. Has anyone used these or can reccomend a stud with a thin jam nut? Or another solution
Thanks
Roy
I don't think I know enough to really be of help, but those in the know will want to know, what is the rest of your motor like? All stock??
I had 1.6 rr's put in my LT1 motor when it was stock so I know that you should not need studs/pushrods/guideplates with that. I ran into trouble, though, with a new cam.
I dont think it really changes the problem but I can supply the info. Its a basically stock LT1 with a mild LPE cam, ported heads with bigger valves, screw in studs with guide plates and crane gold r/r. I am certain it is just the particular combination that has set up this particualar situation. If I was using S/A rocker arms I dont think I would have an issue at all. The extra height of the guide plates seems to have set up this problem.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
I wonder what the height of the valve tip is relation to the stock configuration? I have 2.00-1.60 valves and am still using stock length push rods w/ no geometry problems. I don't have the adjustment issue you mentioned either.
Geesh I just learned something new about building small blocks. And just when you think you have seen it all. Someone on another board suggested I use valve lash caps. I didnt even know these things existed but they are the perfect solution. Any problems associated with these that anyone knows about? http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...=400114+300358
Roy
Geesh I just learned something new about building small blocks. And just when you think you have seen it all. Someone on another board suggested I use valve lash caps. I didnt even know these things existed but they are the perfect solution. Any problems associated with these that anyone knows about? http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...=400114+300358
Roy
What do those do, exactly? From the verbage it sounds like they cover the valve stem, so that the ball wore on the new cap, but how does that help your adjustment situation?
It would accomplish the same thing as using a shorter pushrod but with an additional benefit. It would move the geometry right over the center of the valve by raising the valve stem up slightly. A shorter pushrod would do the same thing however a shorter pushrod lowers the rocker and causes me an interference problem between the rocker and the stud. This would raise the rocker, increasing clearance between the rocker and the stud. So it solves both problems, increases rocker/stud clearance and corrects the geometry while allowing me to use a stock length pushrod.
Roy