steve
just trying to give the guys some good infor. the guy dose some of the best work you will ever see. if your going to spend your hard earned money, spend it right or dont waste your time. sorry you cant seem to handle that. regards

 

steve
just trying to steer the guy right and not hear some of stories about guys getting sh** for their money. if your going to spend good hard earned money then get good work for it. sorry you dont get it.
regards

 

I know I'll need a new chip, but will the stock ecm be up to the task? Or will I need a newer one?

 

If u use ur own block than its a hyd flat tappet and to add 219 cam u need retrofit lifters, shorter pushrods, etc... cost $$ Retro itself will cost u 400 bucks, and now for that power u need true dual exhaust period, oh u need to upgrade chip and transmission without a second thought. Hmmmmm 4500/- for 383 along with cam/heads/headers/383 block hone and labor, its not enough.

 

I can get my hands on a newer 1 piece rear main, roller lifter block for 50 bucks. That should help reduce the retro cost. I would like to build the motor and once its done, pull the current one and slap the new one in.

 

I have built a few 350's and a few 383's for my 87. In my opinion, it is well worth the few extra dollars to go 383. I love driving the extra torque on the street, and the timeslip makes it worthwhile too.

 

What's so unusual around here about someone extolling the virtues of a builder or some other service provider that they've had a good experience with? I think to a member we evaluate the experiences passed along by word of mouth here to help each other choose and spend wisely.

 

My brother and I built this combo back in the day and have moved on to Turbo Buick V6's, so we have alot of TPI L98 goodies For Sale if you are interested. We do have a Super Ram with a 58mm TB, a few chips burned for the combo you mentioned, and other stuff. Let me know what your looking for and I will see what we have.

NationalDents@aol.com

Jason

 

thanks corvette kid
well someone understands
regards gene

 

No one responded to your question about the $50 roller cam block. As long as it will clean up at .030, I would buy it for sure.

For your uses a cast crank will work fine. You can get an aftermarket, cast 383 crank for the one piece block for less than $400. Since you will be buying pistons anyway, that is really the only added expense for the 383 build over the 350 build. To me, it's a no brainer.

For your purposes and budget I would stick with 5.7 rods which you will have from your original engine. With all the little pieces you will need to build an engine, you would be better served if you could have it down for the build. If you had a beater to drive in the interim it will save you lots of parts chasing for little pieces that you haven't even thought of yet.

When you say 219 cam, I assume that you are talking about the Lingenfelter cam. If you are NOT, make sure that the cam is, of course, the hydraulic roller cam and is a grind that is well suited for TPI. The Lingenfelter 219 roller is well suited for your purposes, but make SURE that you take the added lift into account when doing your heads. You will need some machining for the necessary springs and added lift.

I'm envious of this build. This is exactly what I want to do with my 4+3 '88, but with my youngest still in college I am a few years away from it.

Merry Christmas,

 

Gene, most of us understand. Personal recommendations (in my opinion) are better than advertising.

 

That is the best way to do it. Build a motor and swap it in.
Otherwise you could be down for 6-9 months.

I am in the process of tearing down my motor right now and adding a few items. I am sure the 350 can do 11's.

Vic

 

how much for the machine work to let the crank fit? i had some high quotes for that. thats what was steering me back toward a 355. i have heard of 377's that would be a between the two better gas milage right.

 

My engine builder charges $75 to clearance the block for a 3.75 stroke crank.

 

I think 377 is std. bore and 383 is 30 over.

 

With some blocks and 5.565 rods there is no machining necessary at all for the 383 crank. It's that close. So with 5.7 or 6" rods, a light touch with a die grinder at the very base of the cylinders is all that should be required.

I have never built a 6" rod 383. In that case there may be camshaft issues, but these are not serious enough problems that you should let it chase you away from a 383. To me the bigger concern is modifying the frame member ot accommodate the 400 balancer.

Good luck,

 

That price sounds pretty standard, dont let your machinist tell you it would cost much more than that.

 

I used my original balancer since my 383 is internally ballanced (I had a shop check and balance it) and I had no problems. No modification to the frame was necessary.