I use the right stuff and it works great. Just get all surfaces extra clean then wipe them down with brake clean to ensure there is no oil or grease. Place your new intake gaskets in place; I use a little spray tach just so they will stay in place. Once the new gaskets are in place I lay down a bead of the right stuff on the front and rear of the block and let it sit for about 7-10 min, just to firm up a bit. Then gently place lay the intake down in place, try to align it prior to setting it down to avoid sliding it back and fourth. Then Install the bolts and Tq to spec following the proper sequence. I have had great success with this method.
Chris is correct about the fuel rails and injectors staying in place. Just pop off the fuel lines with a quick disconnect wrench and the rails can stay in place. They do not get in the way so no need to pull them. But if for some reaon you do it is a 10 min job, clean around the injectors so gunk doesn't drop in, pull the four retaining bolts and pop the injectors out of the intake and it is done that simple.

 

Bogus, is C4 Guru a work in progress? I keep checking there but can't seem to find many articles or tech articles. I've only seen the three on the left side bar, is that correct or am I looking in the wrong location?

thx

 

I enjoyed the project of replacing the intake gaskets. Here something different, I used GM's Assembly Adhesive 1#12346141 to seal the ends. I removed the injectors and also replaced all the O-rings (preventive type maintenance). Use a good high temp anti-seize compund on your intake bolts and make sure you clean the threads. The idea of "dimpling" the ends sounds interesting, but since my job of over 2 years ago, I don't have any leaks; kinda rare, a LT1 with no oil leaks.

 

I have a container of NAPA copper anti-seize lub, which goes to 1800F, I suppose that is ok to use. Same what I use on my spark plugs.

Yeah I'm quite hesitant to be dimpling the surfaces. Good idea but not for me no cajonies for that.

I was thinking the same thing hopefully the parts dept will have some o-rings in stock when I get there today. I'm very pro-maintenance.

 

Well getting close to D day... I'm at the assembling parts phase. So I picked up the IM gasket set (pretty kewl they have little studs in them to locate, center and hold them in position), secondary air pipe gasket, EGR gasket, bag of red wrags, The Right Stuff, throttle body cleaner, degreaser, lacquer thinner, anti-seize compound, throttlebody gasket, new set of injector O-rings and coolant. All my hoses and vacuum assemblies are new so they shouldn't be a problem.

Probably either tomorrow or Friday I'll tear into it. Wonder if I should reserve a rental car (grin).

How much cleaning on the intake manifold should be done? Is there anything to watch out for on it?

 

one more thing, i dabbed black RTV (not the Right Stuff - too tenacious) on the threads of the intake manifold bolts before installing. the bolt holes (forgot if it is all or some) are drilled through the deck into the lifter valley, so there is a slight chance of oil wicking up the threads.

have fun.

 

I thought they get anti-seize? Are you saying both or just one?

 

I would use one or the other, but not both. Sounds like a personal decision......

I used anti-sieze when I did mine since I was bolting into Al heads. I think this is safer in the long run. The anti-sieze should also assist in NOT letting oil wick up through the threads. Gravity is also our friend here, and the oil will have to fight this too to travel up the bolts...

 

Hey one last thing, don't hurry. I find that when I put the clock into the equation, I usually get in a hurry and bypass something. Take your time! Good luck

 

Yeah I with you on this.

 

Oh trust me that I will do. Besides taking my time I usually photo document the process for tech tips later. First time I've pulled a manifold if my memory is any good. Some processes like coolant draining and throttle body removal will go fairly quickly as I've done them so many times now.

I get the sense that these manifolds won't just pull free once the bolts are removed. I suppose it will take some taps with a rubber mallet, is that pretty much expected?

 

Put anti sieze on the threads and a dab of RTV on the part of the bolt without any threads or do like me and put the anti sieze on the threads and put extra RTV around the holes. When the parts are mated the extra RTV will go into the bolt holes and not mess with the anti sieze.

 

...any minor warpage could cause a leakage problem. It is a good insurance policy to smear a very thin coating of black RTV on BOTH sides of your intake gaskets. Believe me, you don't want to get everything buttoned up, and then have an experiance like tempest. Most folks, including myself, recommend FelPro intake gasket kit. Kit also comes with small tube of black RTV and EGR gaskets...

 

I only have Permatex Hi Temp RTV (red)?

Are you coating the entire surface of the gasket or just some areas? What prevents it from oozing when you torque down on it?

I recall reading a precaution not to install the manifold when either or the parts are warm or hot as it causes warping and it won't seal up. But my plans are to work on a stone cold engine.

 

1) yes, I coated entire surface, front and back
2) such a thin layer will not ooze, and if some does it will be negligable.
3) stone cold engine, yes. Couldn't imagine anyone who could tear the intake down, clean off all the old RTV, and re-install why the engine is still warm!!!!

 

No need to drain the coolant. The LT1's intake is dry.

 

Well it appears we have a successful repair! yee haw!

Took me about 8 hrs from start to finish.

So far looks good no leaks and started right up. I guess I have to change my oil again tomorrow. I say again because I just changed it two weeks ago. I was really careful not to get anything inside the valley, but on the side of caution I'll do the oil again.

Thanks to everyone for all your help and insight.

 

Congrats!! Just curious, did you smear RTV on your intake gaskets, or install dry? Heh-heh, After I installed my intake, I forgot to remove a large plastic garbage bag from the "valley"....luckily I remembered before I completely buttoned everything up and fired her up...

 

I debated that for quite awhile, but since my service manual and my LT1 Rebuild manual only talked about installing it dry, I decided to go that way. Yeah I completely stuff the valley with rags to keep any material out of it. I was very surprised at how easy it came off, I was expecting to have to tap it some with a rubber mallet but one tap with the heel of my hand and it popped free.

I liked using the Right Stuff, fairly easy to dispense and it allows the vehicle to return to service immediately rather than waiting 18 hrs to cure. Since I finished about 10pm last night I only ran it a little bit and then down to the store for a few items. Then it rested over night. I sure hope it holds up well, it was kind of pain since you have to disassemble a lot of stuff to do this.

Installed all new o-ring on the injectors so that was some good preventative maintenance. I bought a fuel pressure gage with relief tubing, but didn't really need as it sitting all night before I started, there was no pressure in the system. But I'm sure it will come in handy one day. Wish I had had it when I changed the fuel filter though.

You have to drain the coolant system because when you disconnect the two hoses to the throttle body it would drench the opti. That's not a big deal though, I've drained it so many times with different repairs it's really a few minute task. My only error this time was not checking the two jugs of coolant I had, I thought they were new but it was recycled coolant from the last time. Duh! So since the coolant was fairly new and I drained it into a clean container, I was able to re-use it. I'll have to drain it again on an upcoming AC evaporator replacement so I put fresh coolant in then.

It helped a lot I think having all new hoses and vacuum components, everything was flexible and not brittle.

Again thanks everyone.

 

Can I ask why it was necessary to drain the coolant?Can't you just remove the TB and move it forward pull it?