C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

New Intake Coming for Yellow

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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 10:33 PM
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Default New Intake Coming for Yellow

I have been running a very heavily modified MRII since 2001 (prior heavily ported and epoxied SR). The MRII intake has been around through a D1 and then onto the D1R. I continue to have distribution issues at high RPM, therefore do not turn past 6100 on the dyno (though RWHP was still climbing). This intake has carried me from high 10s to high 9s in the 1/4 mile and more recently to a 6.14 in the 1/8th. They do not like my car at HRP anymore! Well all good things must come to an end.

I purchased a Weiand single plane intake back at the start of Novemeber. I have changed the typical fuel rail mount, revised the fuel system, and also heavily ported the runners and open area (had to cut the backside of the outer four cylinders to rework to what I had wanted). I am looking to plumb with a DP NOS system (have been running a 3 stage system; plate plus two upstream nozzles for the past decade, though haven't used in about five years). I will be running this intake with a MB (monoblade) as well.

I am hopefull that this set-up will once and for all end the distribution issues at high RPM.

Does anyone here have experience with this type manifolds? Thoughts on whether RWHP will increase, or ET will reduce? I hope this all works, as I will be sending it off this week for powder (no yellow this time, instead "infinetly wet black").

Thanks,
Aaron
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 01:51 AM
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Kinda off topic

But your mini ram had issues with boost running through it?

I heard the rumors,but never heard anyone say they had the problem. then I heard they were fine. So I bought one keeping the thought in the back of my head. I wanted to build my TT motor to rev up a bit, to maybe 6500-7000.

Maybe I should dump this thing?

I was also leaning towards the carb intake conversion, but hear there is lots to getting the elbo right, or building a plenum on it. ughhh.... getting sick of this ****.
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 12:06 PM
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I do not think the distribution problem would be as big of an issue on a lower HP engine. Unfortunately, no matter how much work I did to equalize the flow across each of the cylinders (remember I have cut the top off the MRII, spent countless hours grinding and welding), I still had distribution issues in a couple of cylinders. This is why I would not pull past 6100 on the dyno.

If you talk to TPIS, they will tell you that the MR was designed with the 400-550 HP engine in mind. It was never designed to be placed on a motor such as I have done.

You may wish to decide how far you intend to push the motor, and then decide your next step.

Aaron
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 12:01 PM
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I have a TON of experience with EFI single planes, what do you want to know, Aaron?
-Jeb
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 11:50 AM
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Hey Jeb,
In your other post "C4SP intake", I had asked where the height measurements were being taken. I had not received a response from you. I saw just a bit ago that someone has referenced 9.15" from the front china wall to the underside of a stock hood as being the limiting factor. The intake I am trying to use rises to just over 8.375" from the bottom of the front intake mounting surface to the top of the elbow.

I did decide to stay with the side mounts for the fuel rails, but utilized 1/4"-20 allen head cap screws. You were correct in that these fuel rail supports would be plenty strong. Take a look at the pics below and I would like to hear your thoughts.






Others,
These pics were before the port work had begun. I am now getting it ready for powdercoat. Anybody have thoughts on black powdercoat? I have done so much painting / powdercoating in yellow, that I was thinking black would be a nice change of pace.

Thanks,
Aaron
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Old Dec 31, 2005 | 06:44 PM
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Default RE: Mini Ram

We run a TPIS Mini Ram on our 86 Corvette, Brodix Track 1x's that flow 336 cfm, 680 solid roller, JE pistons, BME rods, Callais 4" crank, Bowtie block, Gen 7+ (DFI), single stage NOS Fogger (250-300 hit) The car weighs 3450 lbs, runs a stock style IRS, 400 Turbo trans, 325 Mickey Thompson Drag Radials. Best ET NA 10.48 @ 132 mph--------------Best ET NOS 9.107 @ 151.73 mph------ The car has gone 153.63 mph before. The engine made 738 hp at the flywheel NA, and we rev it to 7800 rpm! pictures at www.racesupercars.com Steve
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by AKS Racing
Hey Jeb,
In your other post "C4SP intake", I had asked where the height measurements were being taken. I had not received a response from you. I saw just a bit ago that someone has referenced 9.15" from the front china wall to the underside of a stock hood as being the limiting factor. The intake I am trying to use rises to just over 8.375" from the bottom of the front intake mounting surface to the top of the elbow.

I did decide to stay with the side mounts for the fuel rails, but utilized 1/4"-20 allen head cap screws. You were correct in that these fuel rail supports would be plenty strong. Take a look at the pics below and I would like to hear your thoughts.






Others,
These pics were before the port work had begun. I am now getting it ready for powdercoat. Anybody have thoughts on black powdercoat? I have done so much painting / powdercoating in yellow, that I was thinking black would be a nice change of pace.

Thanks,
Aaron
You should be plenty good for clearance...From the front block rail to the underside of the hood (the lowest point of clearance) is 9.150".

Hah!! Using a damned Frod t-stat housing too I see... That's how I did my first one. I plugged the top water housing and welded a new flange on the front of the crossover and used the SAME t-stat housing. Good on ya! BTW: if you break one of those tubular stanchions I'll kiss your *** at 5th and Main in rush hour traffic. I had one guy (guess who?) tell me that those would break in a heartbeat... I've used them to prise the manifold up off the heads!!!
-Jeb
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by jburnett
You should be plenty good for clearance...From the front block rail to the underside of the hood (the lowest point of clearance) is 9.150".

Hah!! Using a damned Frod t-stat housing too I see... That's how I did my first one. I plugged the top water housing and welded a new flange on the front of the crossover and used the SAME t-stat housing. Good on ya! BTW: if you break one of those tubular stanchions I'll kiss your *** at 5th and Main in rush hour traffic. I had one guy (guess who?) tell me that those would break in a heartbeat... I've used them to prise the manifold up off the heads!!!
-Jeb
Jeb,
Thanks for the comments. I previously had 10-28 x 2.5" screws holding the fuel rails. The injectors did not line up well with the injector bungs, so I welded the holes shut then redrilled and tapped the holes for 1/4-20 allen head cap screws. I also had to re-machine the rails to accept the larger cap screws. You were right, in that the rails will easily lift the manifold, and are a very stout part of the manifold now.

The next question is: If you were mounting a NOS Sportsman Fogger on this manifold, how would you go about doing that? Do you have any examples? This was my next thought, as I have completed nearly all of the machine/port work except some of the revisions to the coolant passages. Once this is finished and if I decide to drill for the foggers, then I will send off for powdercoating. I am still considering the "infinitely wet black". They also have a yellow which is nearly identical to Competition Yellow.

Thanks again for the reply,
Aaron
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 10:55 AM
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I lathe turn the stanchions using 1/2" aluminum rod stock and center drill them on the lathe, then tap them for 1/4x20 1.5" allen-head bolts. I countersink the heads in the fuel rails as well.

I don't have any pics of Foggers I've plumbed into these manifolds but I generally drill and tap right under the injector bungs. If you have them mounted too low to do that you can drill and tap the corners of the runners and install them there. Since you have to bend all the hardlines anyway you can put them where they interfere with stuff the least.
-Jeb
PS- Black looks good...But I've always had a thing for raw aluminum and pretty TIG welds...
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 01:38 PM
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here are some pics I found on this forum a while back of the corner mounted fogger idea.





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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by bill mcdonald
here are some pics I found on this forum a while back of the corner mounted fogger idea.





The nozzle on this intake are placed very close to the nozzles on our intake! Check out the pictures at www.racesupercars.com (National Trail race)
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 07:20 PM
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That's exactly how I do it... Great find, Bill... Dennis' is like that too.
-Jeb
PS- BTW, Dennis, I already have a D44 case coming for you!
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jburnett
That's exactly how I do it... Great find, Bill... Dennis' is like that too.
-Jeb
PS- BTW, Dennis, I already have a D44 case coming for you!
Glad to hear that! Febuary 24 is coming soon Thanks Dennis, Steve
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by jburnett
If you have them mounted too low to do that you can drill and tap the corners of the runners and install them there. Since you have to bend all the hardlines anyway you can put them where they interfere with stuff the least.
-Jeb
Jeb,
I believe that mine are too low to allow ample space for the fogger nozzles. I do like the way that those pics bill posted show them in the corners. I am concerned about the great angle that is required on the nozzles going into cylinders 3,5,4,6 due to the single plane 4 bbl intake. Have you seen this type manifold plumbed with the corner mounts? Do I have reason to be concerned?

Bill,
Thanks for digging up those pics.


Thanks to all for all of the help.
Aaron
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 11:59 AM
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Yup...I've done them that way on SP's...It will work just fine.
-Jeb
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 01:17 PM
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Here is a post I ran acros the other day that may give other options for a fogger system.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=417316

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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 02:38 PM
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there is also this system, which I would asume would destroy your fuel rail work if they raise the injectors.
Also the fact that when they came out, I heard all sorts of reports that the were a bad design. Dont know if it was refined, or people did not know how to set them up. but something to maybe look into.
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by FD2BLK
Here is a post I ran acros the other day that may give other options for a fogger system.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=417316


sweet!!!
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 08:31 PM
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Bad news!

I went to the local machine shop to see what their thoughts and costs were on drilling the fogger nozzle holes at the correct matching angles. He says that there is not enough space to effectively plumb the system on the drivers side. It seems that the single plane intake carb flange is actually closer on the drivers side by ~5/8" than on the passenger side.

He suggested the NOSsle system as well for a solution, but reminded me of the interupted flow pattern on high flow injectors (I run 84 lb/hr injectors). I could easily do the angled corner mount on an LT1/4 (MRII) type manifold, but the SP is different.

Does anyone have pics of a DP nitrous system on a SBC single plane intake?

THanks in advance,
Aaron
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 08:47 PM
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Aaron, have you given any thought to mounting the fogger nozzels and plumbing on the bottom/valley side of the intake? I have seen it done that way a few times. Makes for a clean install, just have the solenoids on top feeding 2 bulkhead style fittings on the intake going to the distribution blocks on the under side. Seems like that would work fine??
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