I've got the same problem on my '89 vette. Planning on tearing things apart tomorrow. I bought the complete head gasket set a couple weeks ago. They had the Felpro kit in stock at my local Kragen. I didn't however buy the head bolts, and they didn't ask me if I needed them.

Is it nessesary to replace the head bolts? If so, why?

A tip for anyone who buys parts at Kragen:

Goto www.partsamerica.com (this is the Kragen web site) to see if your local store has the parts in stock, then pay for the part online or print out the pricing for the part you want before going to the store to pick up the parts. I saved over $20.00 on this head gasket set by walking into the store with a printout of the online price. The store prices are typically higher than the online prices, and they will only price match if you bring in the online price printed out. Or you can pay for the parts online and walk into the store and just pick them up, and not stand in another line to pay for the parts.

Anyway, it looks like this problem is catching in the bay area, hope nobody else catches it...

 

[QUOTE=weo89vette]I've got the same problem on my '89 vette. Planning on tearing things apart tomorrow. I bought the complete head gasket set a couple weeks ago. They had the Felpro kit in stock at my local Kragen. I didn't however buy the head bolts, and they didn't ask me if I needed them.

Is it nessesary to replace the head bolts? If so, why?

[QUOTE]

Every once in awhile you'll find a parts counter worker that knows what he/she is talking about; but it's rare and that's why they didn't inform you. There are some cars that don't "require" head bolts to be replaced, but I haven't seen a SBC 350 5.7L that didn't at least recommend it.

Now think about it, if your heads are stock and untouched since the factory put them on, they are now going on 17 years old, they have been torqued down to somewhere around 65-85ft/lbs for the last nearly two decades, they have been through severe heat and stress all those miles along the way ... well I can go on and on, but I think you get the point ... if not, once you remove the original head bolts you surely will see and realize why you don't want to put them back in your motor and expect them to even try withstanding 65-85ft/lbs of torque, especially after all the time you spend taking it apart and put it back together, the last thing you want is for an old head bolt to fail later and you have to do the same job all over again; it's just not worth it, fork out the doe for a new set of head bolts and write it off to something you don't have to worry about going wrong with the project.

 

A lot of good advice given here, but the smoke and coolant leak could just be symptoms of other things not even related to his running problem. I know he said white smoke, but it could be oil burning due to valve seals at startup. I know oil smoke is blueish, but not REALLY blue. The coolant loss could be just a leak (outside) he can't see.
Anyway, I think you need to troubleshoot as suggested before even thinking about pulling heads, buying gaskets, head bolts, etc.
Good luck.

 

Keep us informed on this. Not trying to panic you just help troubleshoot.

 

I sometimes forget people's mechanical skills and experience vary. I can do it in an afternoon, but I've done it on various engines quite a few times. If you're new to doing it, plan on a weekend.

As everyone else has said, troubleshoot, troubleshoot, troubleshoot. Nothing worse than performing a big operation, like replacing a head gasket, and then finding out you didn't fix the problem. A lot of good advice in the posts above, follow it. Make absolutely certain the head gasket is bad before pulling the head.

Now....

In the event that you do need to change ahead gasket,and it's your first time, remember to do the following;

1. Get a notebook and pen. Write down every step you do in detail, following the procedure in your shop manual carefully. I mean every step....if you disconnect a vacuum line, label the line with a number, and write down in your notebook what that line goes to. When you go to reassemble, start at the bottom of the list and work your way up. Makes things very easy, especially on a big project.

2. Use sandwich baggies to hold all of bolts, nuts, fasteners, etc. Label each bag with a Sharpie. Don't throw all of your stuff in a coffee can, or you will have one hell of a time putting it back together. Some parts have bolts of various sizes....the water pump is a good example, label each individual bolt as to where it goes, upper right, lower left, etc. (you don't have to pull the pump on this job, just using it as an example).

3. You're getting lots of offers to help. Buy them lunch and a case of beer and take them up on it. Nothing makes the job easier than having someone who's done it helping you. Great way to learn without getting TOO frustrated. Great way to make new cruising buddies as well.

Best of luck to you ....let us know what you find out.

 

UPDATE:
Yesterday I dropped it off at the mechanic. Here is what he told me this morning:
1) Bad coil. Says it was reading 8 when it should have read 80. He told me he can't do any more diagnostics until this is fixed, so for $180 I had him fix it.
2) The gas pump has a leak(it is hard to get the thing started), $450 to replace, but not really a problem, except he said I might get stranded somewhere at one point - leaving this alone for now

cost me $90 in labor for diagnostics-
I'm going up there in about 10minutes to see how the new coil works out. I will post when I get back.

BTW thanks a lot for the help... I don't have the time I have just skimmed over it but later I will really read it. Much appreciated.

 

UPDATE:
The car runs great now with the new coil. It does have a leaky valve seal but he said he ran compression checks on the engine and everything was working fine. When I started it up to leave it blew out a cloud of white smoke and he ran outside and let me know that was a leaky valve seal. Apparently it isn't a HUGE problem.. just a sign of aging.

the mechanic also told me that it did have a small 'loop' when idling, and he said it was most probably caused by my after market throttle plate. Anything I can do about that?



also I had a check written to me for $1250 for a very small crack in the fiberglass that happened while someone hit me earlier this month. Here's a pic of the damage.











so today has been a very good day. I guess I would only have one question left:
I know the coil has something to do with electronics, and it is funny that this problem began after the first rain of the season. Should I be concerned about the next rain? If so are there any precautions?

 

Glad your car is feeling better.

$450 for a fuel pump is way too expensive, even if it was at a dealer.

Book time on an '86 Vet Fuel pump is 1.6 hours, most places around are charging about $85 per hour; the dealers are charging around $105 an hour. A brand new AC Delco fuel pump list price is under $200. Your tab should be no more then $350 for that fuel pump job, unless of course he is doing other work along with it.

If you need a good body shop, get in touch with Capitol Auto Body on Capitol Expwy in San Jose. Talk to Roy (he's the owner) and tell him VetBoy referred you, he'll know who you're talking about ... his shop is right next door to mine.

BTW, are you taking your car to Carters' in Livermore? Just curious.

 

Subject: TAIL PIPE SMOKE ON START-UP (INSTALL NEW VALVE SEAL KIT)
Model and Year:
1987-91CAPRICE, CAMARO AND CORVETTE WITH 5.OL AND 5.7L ENGINES
1987-91 C/K, RN, G AND P TRUCKS WITH 5.OL AND 5.7L ENGINES
Source: Chevrolet Service Bulletin
Bulletin Number: 91-449-6A - (11/12/1991)

THIS BULLETIN CANCELS AND SUPERSEDES DEALER SERVICE BULLETIN NO. 89-314-6, DATED JULY 1990 AND 90-300-6A, DATED JULY 1990. THE CAUSE AND CORRECTION HAVE BEEN REVISED. ALL COPIES OF 89-314-6 AND 90-300-6A SHOULD BE DISCARDED.


CONDITION:


Some owners of the above vehicles may comment on a puff of blue or bluish white tailpipe smoke on startup.

CAUSE:


Oil leaking past valve stem seals and being deposited on exhaust valve(s).

CORRECTION:


A new valve stem seal kit (P/N 12511890) has been released to address this concern. The kit incorporates a new umbrella seal with a "viton" insert for the exhaust valve stem.

Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

Use applicable labor operations and times.

General Motors bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, not a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform those technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, do not assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See a General Motors dealer servicing your brand of General Motors vehicle for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.


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Related Forum: 1984-1996 Technical Discussion


User Comments
1987-1991: Service Bulletin: Tail Pipe Smoke on Startup

 

That's good news! But your loss of coolant is still a concern. Did your guy pressure test your cooling system?

 

Find another wrench,2000.00 labor for heads is a joke,the fuel pump is easy to do yourself invest in a manual.

 

If you have an older vette heater core or related parts to heater may cause leaking.also replace that radiator cap with a new one.I park on a hill and every gm product i bring home will give a puff of smoke because of this even my 1987 Vette convt with 58K on it will do it sometimes.
Remember when your battery keeps going dead unplug the power seats under front of each seat keep 30 amp fuse in fuse box and you should never have a dead battery again,this will save you money at the repair shop.One clue that seats are drawing current, 1 of your mirrors will keep moving when parked for a long period of time.soon after that your battery will be dead