LT Header install question: Studs v.s. Bolts?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 936
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From: Prattville, AL. My Dog Thinks I'm Cool!
LT Header install question: Studs v.s. Bolts?
I got in on the Stainless Works LT Header GP and now I need to know the best way to hold them on. I know about the Stage 8 locking bolts, but I was wondering if it might be better to use studs and then lock washers and nuts? The reason I was thinking about studs is that you could get more clamping force from a nut on a stud, without damaging the threads in the head, as opposed to the bolts. What does everyone think? 
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Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2003
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From: Hewitt NJ
Originally Posted by STL94LT1
I don't know if you could even get the headers on, using studs.
I have never seen anyone use studs on their C4 headers and I suspect that this is the reason. You could always hold the headers in position and put the studs on, but this is probably not worth the trouble. I got a set of these Breslin header bolts and they seem to work just fine.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: The Top of Utah
In most cases, here, we are threading into aluminum, so a 190,000# tensile strength bolt isn't going to make any difference. The initial bolt loosening comes from the gasket compressing and taking a "set" from the heat. Any garden variety bolt will do, especially if one is conscientious and re-tightens the bolts after each heat cycle, for the first few times. One thing that WILL help, is using the longest bolt possible.
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
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From: Fremont Oh
Originally Posted by Admiral94
I have never seen anyone use studs on their C4 headers and I suspect that this is the reason. You could always hold the headers in position and put the studs on, but this is probably not worth the trouble. I got a set of these Breslin header bolts and they seem to work just fine.
I'm using Breslins' too...
Mo
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From: Everyday you must choose between the pain of discipline and the pain of regret. Fredericktown, OH
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
In most cases, here, we are threading into aluminum, so a 190,000# tensile strength bolt isn't going to make any difference. The initial bolt loosening comes from the gasket compressing and taking a "set" from the heat. Any garden variety bolt will do, especially if one is conscientious and re-tightens the bolts after each heat cycle, for the first few times. One thing that WILL help, is using the longest bolt possible.
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!
As for studs vs. bolts, I tried studs once on the 406 in my Nova. I didn't care for them at all - juts a little more awkward to deal with. I bought some nice black ARP bolts and all was well. Just keep checking them every so often and you'll be fine.
Large Impressive Member
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by Admiral94
I have never seen anyone use studs on their C4 headers and I suspect that this is the reason. You could always hold the headers in position and put the studs on, but this is probably not worth the trouble. I got a set of these Breslin header bolts and they seem to work just fine.
I'm currentltly using stainless allen head bolts with stainless headers and copper gaskets and have not had any problems with loosening.
