What makes TPIS Headers different from the rest?

 

1.) TPIS Headers are made to fit your Corvette and are not a universal fit for any chevy.
2.) TPIS Headers use the standard length exhaust bolts, thereby allowing Accessories that bolt to the Headers to be bolted too.
3.) They allow the emmission pieces to be attached.
4.) Coated they reduce the underhood heat.
5.) They stay bolted in place and do not loosen up
6.) Thick Flange at the Head, that does warp or burn out exhaust gaskets.
7.) They look cool
8.) Changing spark plugs is easy

Bad things next:
1.) The coating is so thick, you have to drill out the bolt holes before you install
2.) The coating is so thick that you have to sand some of it off at the back of the headers so that the Y pipe will fit on it.
3.) The coating is so thick that the Dimples in the headers are no longer dimples. The dimples are there so that you can thread the Head bolts in straight. You have to take a socket and Hammer and deepen the dimples to the the bolts to "not cross thread in the Alum heads".
4.) The Y pipe is not coated, only painted black. It runs real close to the Trans oil pan giving off heat to the Tranny. Wrap the Y pipe with Heat cloth or get it coated too.

Suggestions:
1.) Drill out the bolts holes prior to fitting
2.) make sure you can slip fit the headers onto the Y pipe before installing
3.) Trial fit the bolts in the Header flanges and make sure you can put them in straight, if not, dimple with hammer and large deep socket 11/16 or 3/4
4.) Leave the headers loosely bolted to the heads and then put the Y pipe on. Put a block of wood at the back of the Y pipe and bang it on.
5.) Wrap the starter with Thermo-tec heat shield.
6.) Route the spark plug wires with looms/spacers away from the headers to avoid melting (I melted an expesive wire on the first startup).
7.) Wrap/route starter and O2 sensor wires away from headers.
8.) Bend/pry Brake lines under steering column closer to frame and away from headers.
Enjoy
Chris

 

What he said.The coating still looks good after many thousand miles. My install went well. Only snag was the bolt holes at the flange. I put them on using original bolts. And they stay tight.
I wish I gad put on a mini-starter at the time. The starter does not have to be removed to install the headers, but when the starter dies, Im pretty sure the header will have to come off to get at the starter.

 

What separates them is the fit & finish mostly, you get to maintain everything as it was with no modifications. The header will need to come off to remove the starter, so do what I did and install a good one when you do it. I had bought mine used and recoated by JetHot, probably shouldve done the Y too but didnt. I also covered everything near them with thermal tape (wiring, fuel, transmission, coolant lines)

My website has more information.

Put the year of your car in your posts or in your profile.

 

Year is 90 Coupe I am buying a 383 long block with Iron Heads.

 

Wow, what a timely thread! My TPIS headers shipped out to me 2 days ago!

 

The recomendations and comments above are right on. I installed my TPiS headers about September. The only tough spots I encountered was the tight spacing of the bolt holes and the tight fit of the headers into the "Y" pipe. I took my "Y" pipe to a local Muffler shop and had them swage the ends a little bigger (header ends). I also wish someone had warned me to throw away my stock bolts and buy grade 8 allen head cap screws before I started. About half of my factory hex head bolts would not seat due to interferance from the close proximity to the pipes. I replaced them with cap screws and it was a thing of beauty. Don't forget the Anti-siese compound on the threads.