C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Am I crazy????

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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 12:20 PM
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Default Am I crazy????

I am having my 95 rebuilt while it is out of the car for a top end package. Now my local machine shop wants 1100 bucks to hone and re ring, new bearings, seals, freeze plugs, and gaskets, and assemble the entire engine. Is this too much? It seems to me a little high. Please post your opinion.... Thanks!

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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 12:30 PM
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sounds very reasonable. Any warrantee?

Just be cautious... cheap rebuild kits will come back and bite you in the ***. Get a good cam...LT4 hotcam comes to mind.

get a good oil pump... something like a melling or something, but there is no need for high volume, it only increases the chances of drying out the oil pan and starving the engine for oil.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 02:18 PM
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Also... There is a sensor in the bottom of the oil pan. This sensor was broken when I removed the oil pan. Anyone have part numbers?
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 02:24 PM
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I have a cam and the top end is ready to go. I will be re using my pistons and rods and oil pump.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 02:42 PM
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I would spend the $60 for as new oil pump but the price for the machine work is fair.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 02:58 PM
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Several years ago, a local engine builder charged $750 labor for an engine rebuild, plus parts and outside services, such as boring and honing. I think your guys are okay on their price. Don't scrimp on parts quality. It is cheap insurance.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 95BlueBomber
I am having my 95 rebuilt while it is out of the car for a top end package. Now my local machine shop wants 1100 bucks to hone and re ring, new bearings, seals, freeze plugs, and gaskets, and assemble the entire engine. Is this too much? It seems to me a little high. Please post your opinion.... Thanks!

The Bomber
Sounds reasonable, as long as they know what they are doing and are using quality bearing and gaskets.

What made them want to redo the lower 1/2. If the lower end has a lot of miles on it, it should be completely checked for clearances, as a hone job if the cylinder are oblonged will not fix.

I would also make sure its all acceptable stuff they are putting in.

Good luck.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 03:55 PM
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I went ahead and pulled the engine to do the top end and found the normal wear and tear on the engine. Also heard the rings for the LT1 were not so good so I might as well change them now instead of later. I'll get there sometime this year. It's my resolution.

the bomber
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 04:10 PM
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if you are going to re-rings, and you are planning on keeping the car for a long time, why not drop in a better set pistons as well. Since the old piston is out. A few hundred bucks will get you a nice set forge piston. Just a thought.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 06:29 PM
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That is a resonable price for machine work, mine was little higher, because I had my crank turned down 10 and I had my cylinders cut 30 over, (aligne honed and decke) which meant I needed new larger stronger pistons. Because I needed new pistons, I was told to put in stronger Rods. I also put in stonger ARP bolts. A Better Oil pump, plus all the things your shop is doing. Then I added a better front balancer. Then with some bonus money I had LPE do my D113 heads for almost $2000 plus the LPE Cam 219. Then I added the Comp roller rockers and an AFR spring thingy under the heads, along with new roller lifters and pushrods. At this point I am wishing I had bought the $750 383 crank, instead of paying $120 to have it checked and turned down. But that would have meant clearancing the block, which my machine shop was unwilling to do. good luck with your project.

Chris
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