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didnt check tps voltage how do you do this?
also how do you reset the change oil light
got so much in this car I am ready to sell it to many head aches ;}
trade it in for a honda lol
From previous posts , you said after the vehicle ran and died, you checked the plugs and were clean? Were they black and sooty? this is a sign of rich fuel mixture. If they are dry and tan or white, this is a normal combustion. Do you have a manual , it explains better how to check the tps. You jumper two wires at the tps and measure the voltage at closed throttle. I think its .54 vots at closed throttle.. Im still tryin to figure out if its flooding or not from previous posts.
the plugs I took out were black
after I changed the #3 plug and ran the car some took this #3
plug out and looked like it never been used clean and dry
as I said before the pipes at the heads for #s 3,5,7 dont get hot when running so I think it is droping the 3 cyl on this side
and one on the other side it runs on 4 cyl
so rough the tensioner on the belt makes alot of noise jumping around
injector on # 3 was low ohms was going to get some new ones
but didnt know what size to try
If your looking for a set I believe the FMS pink tops (18# I think rated a lower fuel pressure)are the ones for your car.Some run the blue tops #24 and use a AFPR or tune to get them perfect as they flow a little more than GM.
You could also send yours out to crewzin performance to get them cleaned and flow tested.The FMS injectors are available on eBay for a good price.
ok I know its about time but got new injectors in
the car runs and not too bad drove it about 20 miles
needs the downshift adjusted
need to know how to shut off the change oil light
and have a code 72 that comes on after driving it a bit
you guys have been more then great
I have taken this car to so many shops before and it just never got fixed
feels good to have put the parts in myself
have to say the injectors are no fun to get too
ok I found this for the oil light
now code 72? how to make go away
1.Turn the key to the "ON" position, but don't start the engine.
2.Press the ENG MET button on the Trip Monitor and release it.
Then, within 5 seconds, press and release the ENG MET button
again
3.Within 5 seconds, of Step 2, press and hold the Range
(1990-1991) button or the Gauges (1992-1996) button on the
Trip Monitor. The CHANGE OIL light will flash.
4.Hold the RANGE or GAUGES button until the CHANGE OIL light
stops flashing and goes out. When the light goes out, the
ENGINE OIL LIFE is reset. This should take about 10 seconds.
If it doesn't reset, turn the ignition "OFF" and repeat the
procedure.
ok I can make it go away but after driving about 12 miles the check engine light is back on and the code 72 is back
I think is a netrual safty switch might explane why some times
it will not crank over with the key but come back later and it will
where is this and how do I check it
but all said I am just happy to drive it after 2 years looking at it and having it to every shop around and yes spent about 2500
on it and could not take it out of the drive
never ran this good till I can here
thanks agian to all
just thought of one more thing to ask
what makes the tach read more rpm then its going
its at 4000 at 60 and if you kick it down some it just goes past the end
From what I have found a code 72 on a 91 is the gear selector switch you may have to replace it.Good to hear you got it running.It does give you a good feeling to DIY it.That is colored by the $2500 that others took from you and never fixed it.Get you Helm manual and join the rest of us that do not trust others to work on our cars.
its real nice to drive this car after all this time
got some bugs to work out
only seams to run smooth about 65 to 70 before that it kinda lunges
the only part of the shops that realy burned me was the one that charged me 550 for changing the fuel pump
doing all this I put in a fuel pump
it only took about half and hour
and got the pump from summit racing for 120