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What's this fastguy method ???

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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 12:54 PM
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Default What's this fastguy method ???

Several of you mentioned a "fast guy method" when giving me advice on replacing my heater core. What is it? Where do I go to find out more about it??
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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by funkee
Several of you mentioned a "fast guy method" when giving me advice on replacing my heater core. What is it? Where do I go to find out more about it??
Thanks
You can do a search for the details, but basically it involves removing the pass seat and not the dash pad. He works solely from below, if I recall. I used the FSM method, as I did mine before he did. The JBurnett method is still the most expedient.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 01:30 PM
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http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...m_id=48&arch=1

you will find it here - just look through the post
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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 06:55 PM
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This is from that page.....

I agree, do it yourself. I did mine last week using the "fastguy method". Remove the passenger seat, hush panel, ecm, door motor (good advice about not breaking the white plastic clip), and support bar. The top bolt on the support bar is very difficult to get to. Its a 13mm bolt and I had to use a stubby wrench and then used a 1/2" ratchet with extension to turn the stubby wrench. (That bolt is in pretty tight and I couldn't get enough torque on it to losen it otherwise). I then removed 2 7mm screws that held some duct work on the front of the heater core box and disconnected the duct from an accordion style duct. Then I removed the 5 7mm screws holding on the cover. The top two were especially difficult to remove since they can't be seen. I had to sit on the ground and reach up on top of the cover. There is one on each side, you'll be able to touch them with a finger, but just barely. I just pretended I was blind and was eventually able to get a socket and extension on them. I didn't put the top left one back in when I put it back together! After the cover is off, you can see the core. It's held in with 2 7mm screws on the bottom. Remove the screws, disconnect the heater hoses in the engine compartment and pull out the core. You may have to cut the hoses if they've been on there a while. It took me 4 hours to get everything apart and 2 hours to get it back together. Now that I know what I'm doing, I'm sure I could do the whole job in about 4 hours, which is what the local mechanic quoted me for labor. He also said it'd come to about $350 total which is what gave me the courage to do it myself. I spent $70 on the core and about $30 on different size extensions, u-joints, etc. I didn't end up using all the tools I bought, but I like buying tools and I still saved $250. The job wasn't nearly as bad as I expected. Different years may be harder. It took me longer to replace my water pump or intake manifold gaskets.

Good Luck,
Ron
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 06:33 PM
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Bump for Ron
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 11:34 AM
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Just used this method and it worked very well. here are a couple of things I found out:

You will need: 13 MM Universal socket - for support bar top bolt - don't even start the job without it - with it, this step is a piece of cake!

1/4" drive ratchet, 3-inch extension for same, 6-pont 7MM socket...

Remove the heater hose from the core within the engine comprtment completely before trying to finally remove the cire - it's very hard to remove it AND pull it out of the hoses at the same time...

VERY good advice about not breaking the white plastic clips, BUT I broke both anyway - I think they are just old and brittle. If you do break these, the replacement part for the inner clip can be made to work on both ends - that's what I did...

Check for leaks when you got the core in but before you put everything else back together.

Use a good quality replacement core - I used a ready-aire from Autozone, and although everything fine so far, the one tube was not in quite the right location, and I had to bend it some to make it fit...

Good Luck - I'm an accomplished car guy and this took me 6.5 hours total taking my time. :-)
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