C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Thermo time switch questions

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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 07:55 PM
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Default Thermo time switch questions

I'm having probelms with a sensor on my '88 engine. I have a few question.

Of the two water temp sensors on the front of the intake manifold under the throttle body the one on the outside (it has a connector like a fuel injector) is a bosch sensor #0280130229 I *believe* this is a thermo time switch. Can someone confirm this?

If it it is the thermo time switch where can I find one? My local parts stores have no listing by that application. Crossing the bosch number yielded no results either. I do not have a GM part number for this part. If it is a dealer item I would like to order it from GMpartsdirect.com as it is not convenient for me to travel to our local dealer. Could someone give me a GM part number for this sensor?

Finally, if it is not the thermo time switch could someone tell me what it is? The connector receptacle is broken off mine so I need to replace it.

One more thing - does a 1986 car use this sensor? I think I see the connector for it but the colors in my HELMS are not showing as the same colors in the car. This is not the first time I have run into this on this project.

Thanks once again everyone,
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 09:02 PM
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At the front of your engine, facing forward, there are two devices that screw into the intake manifold. One is the engine coolant temperature sensor that reports the engine temp to the ECM and the other is the cold start fuel injector switch. The ECT sensor is a 25036979. The cold start switch is a 14084318. With your 1985 car, 1986 wiring, and 1988 engine, you might appreciate knowing that both of these parts fit 1985 through 1988. Not only should they fit the engine, they should plug into the harness, too.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 09:06 PM
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Once again CFI-EFI thank you very much for the info. A quick search of Ecklers reveals it is the cold start switch. Unfortunatley they get $60.00 for it. It seems someone selected the most expensive parts to damage on this engine when they removed it from the car.

Always appreciate yours and everyone elses help here as my basket case gets closer and closer to completion.

I see in your profile you are in upper Utah. I was in Park City the week between Christmas and New Years. That area is absolutley beautiful.

Last edited by VtVette; Jan 9, 2006 at 09:09 PM.
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by VtVette
I see in your profile you are in upper Utah. I was in Park City the week between Christmas and New Years. That area is absolutley beautiful.
Beautiful, indeed. That is where a lot of the 2002 winter Olympics events were held. I have a good friend that lives there. Interestingly enough, he is from Vermont.

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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 09:52 PM
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I just finished (Nov) putting a basket case together too...86 body, 87 eng. 85 A4. Eng. wiring is 87, with el. climate control, body wiring is 86 with man. heater..could not get high sp. fan to work correctly. Each time I connected its feed to back of starter, the hi-sp fan would kick in and not go off..
Re cold start sw....I had to use its location for my inst. temp. gauge sendor, so I took a chance and didn't refit it...car starts a treat without it, and runs fine in open loop.
Good luck with the build...you must be getting close..
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by CorvAdel
Re cold start sw....I had to use its location for my inst. temp. gauge sendor, so I took a chance and didn't refit it...car starts a treat without it, and runs fine in open loop.
Good luck with the build...you must be getting close..
Thanks for the info. This idea did cross my mind. Does it throw a code? Where are you located? What is the coldest temp you drive your car? I will be only driving the car in the summer. If I could get away without it I wouldn't loose any sleep. It's not the cheapest device out there.

thanks,
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 10:14 PM
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Hold the phone - Just for grins I went and tried plugging the switch in. The two contacts on the switch are unharmed, the plastic recepticle is cracked off. Apparently there is enough base left as the connector fits tightly on the switch. The thought to try it didn't even cross my mind. I figured I'd just replace it. Considering the cost I think I'll run the one I have and if I notice any problemsI now know the part number to replace it in the future.

Thanks for all the help guys, this should take care of this issue.
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