Hey all, I've almost got my 96's water pump off.

What's the trick with the last water pump bolt...the middle driver's side one? There are two wires/hoses in the way, tight against the housing. Am I supposed to disconnect them? Should I stick the socket through the PS pulley openings, or go from above or below the pulley?

Also, on many of the hoses, GM used those annoying clamps that you need to remove with needlenose pliers. Is it okay to replace these with regular hose clamps, or is not recommended? It would make future removal much easier.

Last question, should I apply RTV to the water pump bolts when I reinstall?

Thanks in advance!

PS. I must be a sucky mechanic because it took me a while to get to this stage, and I've already had three cussing fits! At this rate it's gonna be a while before I get the new opti on... :(

 

janson....when i did my waterpump on the 94 i inserted the socket through the pulley...and while i was at it...i also replaced the clamps with regular hose clamps...... i dont know about using RTV on the bolts ....i used threadlocking compond for that..and if u need to remove the two wires/hoses....go ahead....just remember where u took them off from...its no big deal...btw congrads on replacing the opti yourself . :cheers:


[Modified by Dualnic, 2:13 AM 8/5/2001]

 

You should be able to sneak the socket through with just pushing the 2 vaccume lines to the side. Use a liquid teflon type sealer on the bolts when reassemling it or coolant might leak out the threads. Make sure you bleed the air out when refilling the coolant also.

 

Thanks guys! Managed to pull the vacuum hoses forward enough to sneak the socket by, and loosen the bolt. Got the water pump off the car now.

I'll use hose clamps and some teflon sealer when reinstalling the pump

 

No your not a sucky mechanic. It takes a lot of time to work on LT1s in C4s. Way more than what it took on other cars I have worked. I used to think a cam swap in my 73 Mustang was a big job. I can do that in 1 day. The vette took me 4. :eek:

 

I just worked on this replacing my waterpump this weekend. I got to the middle screw on the drivers side out by using a u-joint socket adapter with a 3" extension. Loosen the bolt by ratcheting it out a little bit with u-joint socket adapter with a 3" extension. Don't come out too far because the u-joint socket adapter will come up against the power steering belt pulley. I got the bolt all the way out by using the 14mm open end wench and turning the bolt from the top. I stuck this 14mm open end wrench thought the power steering pulley to get to the belt. Just be patient. Other waterpump gotchas are there a coupling that goes between the waterpump and the camshaft. This coupling is a 2'' pipe with groves at each end for the water pump spline and camshaft spline. When I removed my old waterpump I didn't notice the coupling and put the new one on. I actually ran my car like this and unforturnately overheated my block, and had to get a tow home. If you can't remove this coupling from theold waterpump a new one cost about 55 from your local Chevy dealer.

 

Yep.. I just got done replacing my waterpump and opti last night. The middle passenger side bolt just needs a U-joint adapter or a "wobble" adapter to get it out. I used both.. and stuck it through the pulley area.

Jason, while you're in there.. I would replace your wires. I put new MSD 8.5mm's in while I was doing all this.

And, yes, it does take a while to do the swap on these. The LT-1 is not the easiest engine to work on (compared to other cars I have worked on). If you need any help with it, feel free to shoot me an e-mail and I'll give ya my phone number. I have the entire job in visual memory still, so I'm sure I could help ya out with anything you need.

The biggest problem I had was backing off the harmonic balancer. You only have to losen the 3 bolts in the triangle holding on the balancer, not the center hub bolt. The way I did it, was I used my huge 1/2" torque wrench and held the hub bolt steady while using another large wrench to losen the three bolts. They are all 16mm bolts, so BE SURE YOU HAVE TWO OF THESE SOCKETS!! I had to go to the auto store to get another one.

Besides that, it's fairly straigt forward. Just takes some patients and having the right tools and parts. I didn't have the parts when I wanted them, so it drug out over 3 days. I could have done it in 1-2, but helps having your replacements when your replacing something.


[Modified by Glock'94, 1:24 PM 8/6/2001]

 

Are you referring to the adapter that connects the gears from the cam gear to the propeller of the waterpump?? That shouldn't be $55, it's just a small piece of pipe with grooves in it for the gears! :crazy: Wow... I'm glad I remembered to put mine in there, as the waterpump wouldn't spin at all!

 

Hey Jason,
How is the project? I am just over the hill in Pacifica if you need any help.

dave

 

Thanks again guys!

For the record, for the water pump bolt, I used a short 3" extension, a U-joint, and the socket. And a flashlight. It's amazing how much easier things are when you can actaully see! I've set the splined coupling by the new pump so I don't forget.

Current status: I loosened up the three balancer bolts yesterday. It was actually pretty simple for me. Soak with Liquid Wrench, put one ratchet on a balancer bolt, and put a 2nd ratchet on a 2nd balancer bolt, and turn in opposite directions. Not sure if the same technique will work when tightening the bolts, but we'll see. I think using the center hub bolt might work better.

Haven't decided how to move the balancer yet though...PurpleC4's procedure says hit the backside with a dowel rod and hammer, I may try that but it looks kinda tricky. Any other suggestions are welcome! :D I have a 2-jaw gear puller but it's got a pointy tip, and supposedly the jaws may damage the pulley.

Curtis, 2dogs, thanks for the offers of help! Much appreciated. I can only work on the car on weekends since it's at a relative's house. 2dogs it would be quite a drive for you I think, otherwise I think I would probably take you up on that offer :D Things are getting better though. With each minor step I gain lots of confidence.

I love this forum!

PS. Summit sent me the wrong Taylors so I need to send them back...argh.

 

So you are going for the Opti-Crap. Maybe I should reconsider my offer of help.....JK
I'm out of town this weekend (convenient?) but am willing to help :smash: and :cheers:

Where do you spend your days - I would like to check out your car when you get it on the road.

Dvae

 

Jason,

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Haven't decided how to move the balancer yet though...PurpleC4's procedure says hit the backside with a dowel rod and hammer, I may try that but it looks kinda tricky. Any other suggestions are welcome! I have a 2-jaw gear puller but it's got a pointy tip, and supposedly the jaws may damage the pulley.
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I just removed my balancer yesterday. I also referred to PurpleC4's article (excellent article). I used a "Harmonic Balancer Puller" that I purchased from a local auto part store (Checker) for $14, to remove the balancer. It came right off without any problems. Tools make all the difference. I did have a few struggles removing the center hub, but it finally came off. I plan on replacing the the opti, front seal and timing chain. I must admit that I did cheat. I have the engine on a stand in my garage, it must be a B!#$&H doing this job with it in the car :lol:

Chris - 1996 LT4

 

Be careful with the water temp sensor. When I replaced my Opti I accidentally smacked it with a ratchet and broke the plastic part of the connector off. A careless mistake that cost me $20...

Not a big deal, but something to keep in mind.

 

ScaryFast, too late...I already broke off the temp sensor. Fortunately I had already purchased another one. I just need to be careful during reinstallation.

2dogs, I'm over in Sunnyvale; I'd be happy to meet up once I get the bad-boy running again :D

 

I hit BEA in San Jose about twice a week. Send me an email when you are done.

 

Bummer! :(

But amusing nonetheless.

 

I'm telling you Glock'94 I tried to pull the old coupling off the old waterpump and it wouldn't come off. Went to Ray Huffines Chevy in Plano to order a new one, price $54.86. :(


[Modified by ce_me_vette, 9:08 AM 8/9/2001]

 

Jeez.. that is NUTS!! :crazy: :crazy: :crazy: :eek: :eek:

 

I got mine from http://www.paceparts.com for about 12 bucks.

 

Now you tell me. Normally I get my parts from the Last Detail http://www.tld-corvette.com. However I was trying to finish up the job ASAP and in light of your post I got screwed. :(