C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Before and After Alignment Specs. Expert Opions?

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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 07:22 PM
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Default Before and After Alignment Specs. Expert Opions?

[img]http:www.members.aol.com/meyre1/alignment.jpg[img]

Last edited by GS057; Jan 15, 2006 at 07:29 PM.
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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 07:26 PM
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No worky....
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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 07:36 PM
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QUOTE=Corvette Kid NC]No worky....[/QUOTE]

Here you go Chris

[
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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 08:13 PM
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Looks good from here.

Toe won't cause abnormal wear, good camber, don't want too much more on a streeter trying to avoid abnormal wear and cross caster will keep you tracking straight on crowned roads. Might pull slightly left in the left lane, but that is not unusual.
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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 11:31 PM
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http://www.vbandp.com/instructions/h...ruct/align.htm
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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 11:58 PM
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Your front caster and camber were fine before the alignment and by adjusting toe they threw them out? That's just

By their own specs most of the numbers are out of range. They should be able to do better. Heck a blind monkey should be able to do better.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 12:13 AM
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I used these specs from VBP.

Daily Driver Settings: These are designed to minimize tire wear and the dynamic forces on the front-end parts such as steering and ball joints. Driver effort should be minimum and the vehicle will steer very light. The downside is that the car may wander or could be “darty” on roads with wear ruts. To eliminate this feeling, you can get your alignment specialist toe the vehicle in up to a maximum of 1/8” total toe-in.

Front: Toe 1/32 inch
Camber 0 degrees negative
Caster 5-7 degrees positive

Rear: Toe 1/8-inch toe-in
Camber 0 degrees negative
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 01:35 AM
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Originally Posted by GS057
I used these specs from VBP.

Daily Driver Settings: These are designed to minimize tire wear and the dynamic forces on the front-end parts such as steering and ball joints. Driver effort should be minimum and the vehicle will steer very light. The downside is that the car may wander or could be “darty” on roads with wear ruts. To eliminate this feeling, you can get your alignment specialist toe the vehicle in up to a maximum of 1/8” total toe-in.

Front: Toe 1/32 inch
Camber 0 degrees negative
Caster 5-7 degrees positive

Rear: Toe 1/8-inch toe-in
Camber 0 degrees negative
That is what I thought how does it drive? I am pretty close to that and am considering adding 1/16 front toe.It gets a little tedious constantly adjusting on a straight road.Of course it corners well but I don't have enough of those roads around here.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Vis Croceus
Your front caster and camber were fine before the alignment and by adjusting toe they threw them out? That's just

By their own specs most of the numbers are out of range. They should be able to do better. Heck a blind monkey should be able to do better.
I agree that the after are "out of spec" but personally I think the specs suck. If anything is from a blind monkey, it's the specs. BTW, to say they are from GM, the maker of the car, is to prove my point. Of course, the positive camber is a good band-aid for the "rut-following" many C4 owners complained about.

Other than that, I can't imagine why someone would want as much as 1* positive camber on both fronts of a performance car or a cross caster (spec allows for +.7) that could cause the car to pull hard right on crowned roads and the whole time in the right lane (travelling lane) of an interstate.

Most street car alignments call for the front camber and caster settings to be adjusted to slightly different specifications on the right side of the vehicle compared to the left side. These slight side-to-side differences are called cross-camber and cross-caster.

For vehicles set up to drive on the "right" side of the road, the right side is aligned with a little more negative camber (about 1/4-degree) and a little more positive caster (again, about 1/4-degree) to help the vehicle resist the influence of crowned roads that would cause it to drift "downhill" to the right gutter. Since most roads are crowned, cross-camber and cross-caster are helpful the majority of the time, however they will cause a vehicle to drift to the left on a perfectly flat road or a road that leans to the left.
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