C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Is a Rear Spring Compressor Needed?

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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 02:55 PM
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Default Is a Rear Spring Compressor Needed?

Hopefully someone has done this before.

I need to replace a failing U joint on the left rear halfshaft. The shop manual refers to a leaf spring compressor. I could not find a reference to this on any of the other threads here on lowering the car, swapping springs, etc. Is this part needed, or is there a better way to do this? I'll need to swing out the rear wheel/hub/bearing carrier to remove the halfshaft, and the spring needs to be disconnect to do this...Any ideas?
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 03:12 PM
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I used a bottle jack to put pressure on spring - vice-grip on long stud & take nut off (mark or measure where the nut is on the bolt). Not much of a problem if you are only taking one side off.
Do a search - you do not have to take that much off to pop the half shaft out.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 03:14 PM
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You can use a floor jack to raise the end of the spring enough to take the load off the bolt so you can remove it.

The proper tool would be safer for both you and the spring, but I doubt anybody has used that tool outside of the chevy dealer.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 03:38 PM
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I have dropped the rear spring with a floor jack just fine.

tension the rear spring at the very end, or, just inboard of the bolt, just enough to release the bolt. then, remove the bolt and lower the jack. Done. Repeat for the other side.

This is very easy and VERY SAFE.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by bogus
I have dropped the rear spring with a floor jack just fine.

tension the rear spring at the very end, or, just inboard of the bolt, just enough to release the bolt. then, remove the bolt and lower the jack. Done. Repeat for the other side.

This is very easy and VERY SAFE.

This procedure is easier than it looks! I use a block of wood on top of the jack and I lift the spring on the metal spring end plate.

Mike
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by aboatguy

This procedure is easier than it looks! I use a block of wood on top of the jack and I lift the spring on the metal spring end plate.

Mike
What he said. Don't put the jack cup on the spring.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 04:38 PM
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All are great ideas....That was the only thing that was keeping me from doing it myself.

Thanks all!!

MB
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 04:56 PM
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When I did mine, I didn't do any of the above. I just loosened the nut on the long bolt and when the nut got near the end of the bolt, the tension was off if the nut. The bolt is long enough, on my car, to release the spring tension

RACE ON!!!
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
When I did mine, I didn't do any of the above. I just loosened the nut on the long bolt and when the nut got near the end of the bolt, the tension was off if the nut. The bolt is long enough, on my car, to release the spring tension

RACE ON!!!
Not on mine!
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by aboatguy
I use a block of wood on top of the jack and
I lift the spring on the metal spring end plate.
This is important advice.

Lifting elsewhere along the spring where the composite material
could be marked may lead to premature delamination & failure.

.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Slalom4me
This is important advice.

Lifting elsewhere along the spring where the composite material
could be marked may lead to premature delamination & failure.

.

Yep, floor jack on the metal plate at the end of the spring has always worked for me
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by TA
Yep, floor jack on the metal plate at the end of the spring has always worked for me
Had it off a couple of times, no big deal at all.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
When I did mine, I didn't do any of the above. I just loosened the nut on the long bolt and when the nut got near the end of the bolt, the tension was off if the nut. The bolt is long enough, on my car, to release the spring tension

RACE ON!!!
What he said. I just did the ujoint/ halfshaft drill. No need to compress spring.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
When I did mine, I didn't do any of the above. I just loosened the nut on the long bolt and when the nut got near the end of the bolt, the tension was off if the nut. The bolt is long enough, on my car, to release the spring tension

RACE ON!!!
...depending on the spring preload. The actual I have on my car is with a "unloaded shape" similar to a reversed U.
even with very long bolts there is a so much preload ... Ask to my friend when the end of the spring slammed directly on his hand... He was luky and reported only a minimal problem on the hand...
The spring I'm installing now (a Vettebrake one) is pretty orizonthal.
-Beppe-
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
When I did mine, I didn't do any of the above. I just loosened the nut on the long bolt and when the nut got near the end of the bolt, the tension was off if the nut. The bolt is long enough, on my car, to release the spring tension

RACE ON!!!
I think I could do mine that way with the shocks disconnected.
But, with the shocks in place, I don't see mine being done that way.

Tom Piper
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 01:41 PM
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My shocks were connected. I was doing the half shaft u joints. Also, I disconnected the camber rods at the knuckle, so that I wouldn't have to mark, and hope and pray, that I was able to accurately duplicate the camber adjustment.

RACE ON!!!
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