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I am going to install a shift kit in the 4L60 this weekend and have a couple of questions.
Does the valve body come out as a complete unit? Anyone got a diagram of the valve body or a link they can post for me? Tranny fluid only has 6K miles since the last change, can I reuse it or would you recommend new fluid?
The valve body does come down as a unit. In between the valve body and case is a seperator plate. Both sides of the seperator plate contain check ***** that will bounce down the driveway when you lower the valve body. Have Vaseline and fresh fluid (and filter) handy.
The kit come with the car uninstalled. Its a B&M unit. It has directions but they are really general to me and I was wanting to arm myself with more info before I tackle this project this weekend.
I will see if I still have my diagram at home. If so, I will scan it for ya.
Also, to answer your other question, yes put new fluid in it. No matter how careful you are, you could contaminate the old. Just get new and a new filter.
The B&M instructions are great. They will not let you down. You will see that there are many check ball location possibilities based on model year and mid year changes. You must know the year of the trans in your car. The year of the car itself is not important. If you get in any kind of jam during the install, let me know. I can help you with it. I have done a bunch of them. I can also id the trans if it is not origional to the car.
I put a B&M shift improver kit in my car last fall.
The instructions that came with it worked quite well. Hard to read now with all the finger prints all over them but they worked.
I took the lower half of the valve body off and did the work on the bench. If I remember I had to make one change under the car that had a small snap ring that was real tough to get out. Finally after over an hour of fighting with it I broke it and took it out in pieces.
Then I went to the kit and what do you know, it comes with a replacement snap ring. I guess they know what a pig the thing is to get out in one piece. Would have saved me an hour if I knew that I could break it from the beginning.
Shifts hard now.
Good luck.
I have the kit installed and only need to put the pan on to button things up.
I ended up buying a set of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring. They were worth every penny!
I am going to install a shift kit in the 4L60 this weekend and have a couple of questions.
Does the valve body come out as a complete unit? Anyone got a diagram of the valve body or a link they can post for me? Tranny fluid only has 6K miles since the last change, can I reuse it or would you recommend new fluid?
Pete. K just finished installing my whole tranny plus a transgo shift kit, he was already familier with B & M so with the transgo now. Yet to ship tranny though.
According to him transgo has quite a bit of work compared to B & M.
Tommy: I test drove my car today that oil and filter change was right and i was wrong, no damage to oil pan just a little hard scratch, iam gonna drive tomorrow all day, if all is well i will join with u guys on sat 28th and infact i informed my manager of my OFF on 28th. See u. man.
I have the kit installed and only need to put the pan on to button things up.
I ended up buying a set of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring. They were worth every penny!
Good job, how long did it take you?
I had lots of snap ring pliers but none that were able to work in that tight space. On a side note I now have all the snap ring pliers I will ever need.
I learned a trick for removing the snap ring in the pump. While pushing up in the boost valve, put a small pick in one side of the snap ring. Push it toward the center and rotate it in a circle while pulling it towands the center of the hole. That will wind it out of the groove. 1st time took me 1hr. Now it is a 10 sec job.
I learned a trick for removing the snap ring in the pump. While pushing up in the boost valve, put a small pick in one side of the snap ring. Push it toward the center and rotate it in a circle while pulling it towands the center of the hole. That will wind it out of the groove. 1st time took me 1hr. Now it is a 10 sec job.
Good tip Pete, having the right tools is likely the key, including the right pic if that's what works. I'm still waiting for my height micrometer to arrive for my valve spring job.
I just picked up a new set of large snap ring pliers from the snap on guy. He whacked me $45 for a $7 tool. Man was it worth every penny though. It has just the right bend to allow me removal of the lowest snap ring in a 700r4 trans. What would once occupy 25 minutes or more, became a 5 second job. The right tools make life easy.
Tested the kit out today and I have a couple of questions. First being the tranny slips a bit before it shifts between gears only at WOT. Shifts firm at moderate driving speeds but at WOT, its like it slips a second before engaging the next gear. Any ideas? Shouldn't it be a firm, instant, postive shift?