carburated or injection need advice
Carb
Pro's -
Easy to trouble shoot and requires no electronics other then the distributor
WOT tuning is a breeze and it will make great power
Cons-
You will have to buy everything needed for this install
Hood clearance is close and a bit of a PITA
Your tune for fuel and jetting is the same for all conditions across the RPM range (If you need a little extra fuel between 2000-3000 RPM and a little less 4-5K tough)
Your ignition timing is the same boat you can tune the man advance via weights and the vacuum advance and that’s it.
Knock retard the old fashion way turn the distributor no ECM to take care of a little bad gas here.
Gas mileage, I know you may not care but I do get 26-27MPG Hwy with a 400+RWHP/RWTQ motor running well into the 11's.
Probably not a big deal but your MPG gauge will no longer work.
If you have an auto you will need a way to lock up the converter (I used a BTO kit for $80)
FI
Pros
Tuning across the board for both fuel and ignition
ECM controlled knock retard; a little bad gas will be handled w/o a problem
Good fuel mileage
Will still pass emissions if it is ever needed
Cons,
Can be a huge PITA to trouble shoot at times
More parts to break (Sensors, injectors, ECM, wiring etc...)
Will limit performance with the stock TPI and after market intakes are not cheap
A short parts list for the carb conversion
intake (Low profile)
Carb
T fitting for fuel line
fuel regulator for a carb (Hooks between the feed line and the return line with the T)
Distributor
air cleaner (low profile)
That is all i can think of off the top of my head
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Carb
Pro's -
Easy to trouble shoot and requires no electronics other then the distributor
WOT tuning is a breeze and it will make great power
Cons-
You will have to buy everything needed for this install
Hood clearance is close and a bit of a PITA
Your tune for fuel and jetting is the same for all conditions across the RPM range (If you need a little extra fuel between 2000-3000 RPM and a little less 4-5K tough)
Your ignition timing is the same boat you can tune the man advance via weights and the vacuum advance and that’s it.
Knock retard the old fashion way turn the distributor no ECM to take care of a little bad gas here.
Gas mileage, I know you may not care but I do get 26-27MPG Hwy with a 400+RWHP/RWTQ motor running well into the 11's.
Probably not a big deal but your MPG gauge will no longer work.
If you have an auto you will need a way to lock up the converter (I used a BTO kit for $80)
FI
Pros
Tuning across the board for both fuel and ignition
ECM controlled knock retard; a little bad gas will be handled w/o a problem
Good fuel mileage
Will still pass emissions if it is ever needed
Cons,
Can be a huge PITA to trouble shoot at times
More parts to break (Sensors, injectors, ECM, wiring etc...)
Will limit performance with the stock TPI and after market intakes are not cheap
A short parts list for the carb conversion
intake (Low profile)
Carb
T fitting for fuel line
fuel regulator for a carb (Hooks between the feed line and the return line with the T)
Distributor
air cleaner (low profile)
That is all i can think of off the top of my head
I have no idea of what distributor you have but if it is a ECM controlled one then no it will not work, no ECM. As far as the tuning goes what problems would you have after the thing was tuned? I do some of my own tuning and can't see why you would touch it after the tune is correct but hey if you want to use a carb then ok but there are plenty of reasonable tuners that do great work such as PCM for less that should be able to get your tune just about dead on so don't let that be the only reason.
My friend also has timing troubles as well so you're never sure if the problem is in the distributor, in the carb, a combination of both, etc. Add this to the fact that given a specific problem / complaint there could be any number of causes and it just works out to be a major headache.
Fuel injection is harder to install initially and it does require a lot more wiring / sensors, etc. However once you're done you can data log the car. You KNOW where the timing is and you KNOW what the fuel is doing. There is no more guess work and you can tune the car without getting your hands dirty. You can also have performance AND fuel economy that can be very hard to match with a carb.
You have a little over 9 inches, so ive read, between the engine block and the hood.
In the future, i will add a Weiand Roots blower and pop a hole in the hood. Cheap (approx $2K) and easier to fit SC than trying to use FI and a SC, I'm thinking.
I guess i wouldnt do this but for 1. i intend to save money by NOT pursuing FI on a modded car, 2. I will get my car done sooner, 3. it is not a DD 4. The SC route should be easier. 5. I pick up some money by selling my FI parts.
Im sure FI is superior, except in relative initial cost to those with moded engines like mine.
I will post p/n, issues, etc. when the project is done for those who are interested.
They run about $80 and along with a datalogging cable a tuner can get the car tune in pretty much the entire way via email.
I will post p/n, issues, etc. when the project is done for those who are interested.
Now for the good news BTW makes both of them
TV kit just choose the carb for the proper kit.
http://www.tvmadeez.com/
Lock up kit
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/cata...SUBCAT&CATID=O
Here is the old 84 with the carb














