I want to run a seperate mid/heavy guage wire for a key'd (ie on/off with ignition) +12v source to run some of the aftermarket stuff on my vette. I have a heated O2 sensor on a one wire car, temp guages for cooling fans, analog guages etc that all require their own power supply. Instead of maxing out and continually splicing into the existing 23 year old wiring (84 vette), I was thinking of creating a "main line" that I can draw off of for these extra components and then fuse individually depending on the component and the needs.

So I'm thinking of running a heavy guage wire off the battery terminal with a fuse TBD, and then use a relay that would be wired in to a keyed ignition source.

Any thoughts on how to best accomplish this? What components to use (terminal posts, etc) that would work for the weathered underhood environment?

 

You might want to look to traditional electronics suppliers such as DigiKey since a lot of aftermarket stuff will be simply repackaged products with a premium attached. I don't have anything specific for you, but try looking under power distrubution. Another option would be car stereo components, but you'll be paying mostly for all those gold contacts, which is somewhat unnecessary.

Some links:
http://www.digikey.com
http://www.newark.com
http://www.mouser.com

Also, keep in mind some of the manufacturers might offer free samples, so it might be worth checking out their site as well to investigate that. For example, I build my own RS232->ALDL interface all with samples, even including the OBDII connector which at the time was fetching upwards of $60 each (excluding discrete components I had at work of course).

Have you looked at the offerings from Painless?

 

One tidy way would be to get a fan or other C4 relay along with the associated
connector. This could be mounted on the fender liner and look just like
it belonged there.

The switched source could be a circuit from an existing relay (fan, fuel
pump?). You might have seen a recent thread where I posted about
opening up a relay instead of splicing into the OEM harness - either
way would get you a switched & fused source for the new relay.

As for the main HD circuit. Instead of wedging a ring terminal under
the Pos battery cable, consider connecting to the terminal block that
sits behind and below the battery tray. At least there is one on my
'89. This single terminal is the distribution point for several of the
'always hot' OEM circuits - note that fusible links are present for
protection.

As for wire - I caution against using GPT insulated wire. IMO, this is
inadequate for the engine compartment. You should look for TXL, GXL
of SXL grade wire - SXL is probably going to be easiest. Marine grade
wire has a higher temp rating than GPT, too. (Not sure but I think it
may be SXL from some vendors.)

Painless sells TXL in virtually every colour and stripe combo used for
GM (and other) OEM harnesses. The issue is that retail performance
outlets don't/didn't regularly stock Painless Extreme bulk wire. This
is much better than GPT!

.

 

well I was probably just going to go over to RadioShack and see what they had. But unfortunately they don't carry weatherpack connectors and all that which is what I'd like to use. THose I've already ordered. However, I was primarily looking for an easy way to setup a relay and a hot tower that would be "weatherproof" so I wanted to avoid just running a 12 guage wire off the battery and then just splicing into it. But I could probably keep it that simply with a good relay and insuation....

That's why I posted though - I'm getting ideas that I'd never think of on my own!

 

When the OEM look is secondary or you want to know the specs of
the relay and choose how it functions, Hella is the way to go. I used
a number of their products on the NEP and am very happy with the
way that came together.

If you want to check out Hella, take a look at the SUSQUEHANNA
MOTORSPORTS site. It may take a while to get your head around
the permutations and combinations Hella offers, but SUSQUEHANNA
is a good place to start.

For fusible link wire, NAPA carries Belden products you can use. They
also have the nice Belden in-line mini-fuse holders.

There is a slick Maxi-Fuse holder I sourced, too. It has an optional
clear dust cover that was hard to get but this added the finishing touch.
I located this somewhere other than NAPA - if it is of interest, let me
know and I'll look back for the details.

As for WeatherPack, MetriPack and other under-hood connectors,
I found that I was able to get everything I needed locally from
commercial/industrial electronics houses. The Deutsch Connectors
(weatherproof and much more compact) as sold by MSD, proved to be
a little harder to come by in bulk when I was looking - you can get them
from MSD vendors if you only need a few.

.

 

When I had my 59 I thought, "Why doesn't GM have an easy keyed and hot source?" Now, 30 years later on my 94 I'm thinking, "Why doesn't GM have an easy keyed and hot source?" This is where Japanese and German cars accelerate.

 

I'd just as soon have my acceleration on the road.

Ramanstud,
The 1984 doesn't have the junction block or buss bar behind the battery like the 1985 and up cars. Rather than cause a compromise with too many wires connected to the battery positive post, run a heavy gauge wire (#8?) from the large stud in the starter, where the battery positive cable connects and run it to... wherever. Behind the battery seems to work for later years.

RACE ON!!!