My 94 coupe has been sitting the last two weeks with only a trickle charger plug into it. Yesterday I go to back it out of the garage and it will not turn over. The battery is fine and fully charged. So get this. I keep trying and it finally starts. Each time I turned the key it sounded like l got a clicking noise. So I am thinking:

1. Starter (perhaps a loose wire?) In my previous experience it seemed that starters failed completely and not gradually.
2. Ignition switch.
3 Switch on clutch engage.

Anyone else had this problem.

 

If you got a click every crank attempt, I think we can rule out VATS and the clutch safety switch. Remove your battey cables (neg first) and clean the cable lugs and the battery posts and bolts and reconnect (neg last). The 100+ amps required by starter motors makes it imperitive that you have a very low connection resistance to the battery terminals. You want your battery cable connections to be like your lover, bright and tight!
If you still have clicks but no cranking, you might have starter solenoid problems. The starter solenoid connects two large copper pads together to switch current to the starter motor and these contacts get burned and cratered with use and eventually don't make good enough connection to pass enough current to operate the starter motor. Remove the starter and have an auto electrical specialty shop look at it and replace the starter solenoid or rebuild the starter for you.

 

I just went through this. After about six weeks of clicking until turning over, it finally quit starting. (Luckily I have a stick to pop it). During the last week (before death), I had an auto parts store test my battery/charging system 4 days in a row. (3 1/2 yr old battery)

First day, they said bad alternator (because it didn't show 105 amps). Didn't believe the guy. Put a charger on it over night cause he said the battery was low. (But, it would not take a charge)!

Second day, took battery (alone) in to test on indoor machine. Tested good. WTF?

Third day, tested on car again. Different tech said bad starter. (That's what I thought). But the battery was low again. We decided not to rule out voltage drain overnight. Put charger on again (after cleaning everything again).

Fourth morning, put charger on battery out of car. Still showed bad. Put charger directly on car battery leads (as a power supply). Showed no voltage draw. Took the battery to store and said I want a new battery -- this one is bad. Guess what. It tested bad! Went home hoping problem was solved.

Installed new battery. Turned key. Click. WTF?

Removed starter. Took to store. Connected leads and pressed switch. Solonoid was kicking the shaft out but the gear was NOT spinning. Got a lifetime replacement starter for $95. Figured, 17 yr old starter had started the car plenty and deserved a burial.

There is a recent thread explaining how you can remove the 3 screws from the back of the solonoid and replace the contacts. I started the thread -- if you want to look it up (through search). You have to order the contacts (about $18). Doesn't look very hard if you want to try that fix.

In my case, I figured the motor itself might be going bad -- since the solonoid was working. (And, as stated, it was 17 yrs old). Also, I may put headers in. In that case, the starter might be exposed to extra heat. Having a life-time replacement may come in handy!

Anyway, the new one solved the problem and sounds like a turbine because it spins so well!

It was very easy to r&r. You'll need 9/16" socket for main bolts. 5/16" for small nut. And, 1/2 wrench for main wire connection. Takes as long to jack car as it does to change starter. BTW: If there's a rubber gasket on your starter, you'll need to reuse it, make your own, or buy a new one from GM. I reused mine. Apparently, it's not sold in aftermarket parts shops.

Good luck!

P.S. Glad I didn't listen to the first guy and put a new alternator on it!


Edit: A starter rebuilder will charge as much/more to rebuild your starter (I checked in Kansas City). Also, here is the other thread I spoke of.

 

Sounds very likely-starter, or solenoid, if you haven't replaced it yet, try this, try to start-no start, take a breaker bar or pipe and tap the starter-try to start-starts? starter solenoid you can rebuild it yourself, I have-but it always seem to me a hit or miss-I've been lucky
with rebuilts from Schucks-otheres have not.

 

Where can I find parts to rebuild?

Local Chevy dealer (Bill Heard) calls the starter "unserviceable" defined as we don't sell practical parts. Also Known as "Buy a rebuilt one from us at $400"

Does anyone know where I can finds the parts to rebuild solenoid?

 

Usually, if an older starter is intermittent it is not the solenoid contacts, but the starter brushes. The brushes wear right down to the brush holder (the part the actual brushes screw on to) and dont allow brush contact with the armature. Brushes are very inexpensive (2-3 bucks). A shade tree way to determine if the brushes are worn is to whack the starter assembly while a buddy turns the key to start. This jolts the brush against the armature and makes it spin. GM starters are very easy to work on. You've also got field windings, bushings, etc, but if the "whack" thing works, most of the time it is the brushes.
Good Luck!

 

The link I provided (previous post) shows where to get contacts for the solonoid. I believe that AdvancedAuto listed brushes for that starter.