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Axle u-joint?

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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 08:19 AM
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Default Axle u-joint?

Yesterday when I left from work to home I could hear this fairly loud and rappid sqeek sqeek sqeek ect. After going about 20 miles it would be louder under load, less or quiet while coasting. Jacked up the car when I got home. Left wheel sqeeks when I turn it. Yanked on the tire and didn't feel any movement. Didn't see or feel any in the axle either. My 1st guess is the outer u-joint in the left axle due to the proximity and rythem of the sqeeks. Sound right to you?

Looks like might not be to bad to get out, like remove the nut at the end of the leaf spring, remove that dog bone looking link with the cam on one end, maybe one more thing...just enough things so I can swing the wheel out to get the shaft out. Sound about right? Any hassles with the leaf spring?
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 08:34 AM
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http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette...nts/index.html

Scorp did this, for you.
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 09:20 AM
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If you replace, you MUST use Spicer Cold forged u-joints with NO zerk fittings.

get them from Tom's Differentials.
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Spankyellow
WOW! I mean freaking WOW! You guys did everything but buy the parts and hand me the wrenches. Thanks!!
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 11:18 AM
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But when you do it, I found if you pull the bolt at the outer link end (hub), you don't have to mess with marking the caster/camber bolt or removing it. And I agree with vader- use the spicer enduron coated/ no grease nipple ujoints.
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 01:06 PM
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i found that undoing the shock from the bottom makes the wheel swing out alot easier for getting it out.
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 03:40 PM
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its deffinately ur u-joints i had the same problem about 1 month ago and once i replaced them the squeaking had left my car so look into some new u-joints and about 2-3 hours of work
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by kize
But when you do it, I found if you pull the bolt at the outer link end (hub), you don't have to mess with marking the caster/camber bolt or removing it. And I agree with vader- use the spicer enduron coated/ no grease nipple ujoints.
Or remove the two bolts for the camber rod bracket that bolt to the differential, leaving the camber rod bolted to it and the adjustment intact.
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 06:47 PM
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BTW, in case they're not on Scorp's site or for anyone else who wants to know, halfshaft part# is 5-800X and 5-786X for the driveshaft. These are the Spicer joints that you want w/ the correct coating for use in aluminum shafts.
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 07:57 PM
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Do what scorp says and you will be fine.

BTW, be careful of the 5/16 strap bolts....they strip very easy.
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 09:28 PM
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To verifiy, you can squirt some motor oil from a spray bottle onto the u-joints on that side and take it for a drive. If the noise goes away for a short while, it's definately the u-joints.
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