When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Simple L98 timing questions
'88 L98 w/ 6 speed conversion, otherwise totally stock. I'm wondering where's the best place to set initial timing and what to look for, for total advance. Also thinking of putting a curve kit in it. The owner just wants a little more pep. Thanks.
Unless you hook up a scanner and go for a run, you'll never be able to see what the equivalent of "total" is. I would just start making runs and adding 2° until it quits improving, and then back to the previous best. I ended up with a base of 14° BTDC that way. Most people end up with 8° to 10°.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Interesting. I hadn't looked under the cap yet but was assuming that all of the big distributors still had mechanical advance. So I guess when the precipitation stops here, I'll just take it out and play with it! Thanks for the tips, fellas.
Stock TPI, 6* BTDC. A "curve kit" won't work, the spark curve is controlled by the ECM via the programming in the prom chip.
Run what timing the motor runs best at. Do not shoot for a specific number. You are using a stock pointer that may or may not be dead on at 0* (TDC).
Go to a track or dyno - run the car at various timings and see what produces the best numbers. I usually start out conservative and then keep adding timing till my MPH drops off at the track. Back the timing up and lock it down where it ran the best MPH. Best MPH = Most power.
I wound up at 10 deg. and got a better initial jump but then the ECM takes over and controls the timing. I guess its just a little feel good, I did something kind of thing but the ECM is the boss.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by ski_dwn_it
Run what timing the motor runs best at. Do not shoot for a specific number. You are using a stock pointer that may or may not be dead on at 0* (TDC).
Go to a track or dyno - run the car at various timings and see what produces the best numbers. I usually start out conservative and then keep adding timing till my MPH drops off at the track. Back the timing up and lock it down where it ran the best MPH. Best MPH = Most power.
This is what I know and what I miss about the engines I grew up with. I always tuned engines 'to themselves' and that's what I will (obviously) do in this case given what all of you have said. There is great bang for the buck in tweaking ignition timing, virtually free! Don't get me wrong, as easy as it was to play with the mechanical distributors, I love electronic engine management and don't wish to go back. I just envy you guys who can do your own tuning and I hope to join your ranks one of these days. Thanks to everyone for the input
The "total advance" for an 88 L98 in the high rpm/high load area is between 32 and 35.9 degrees. A couple of excerpts from the ABTR table. Spark vs rpm vs load.
Unless you hook up a scanner and go for a run, you'll never be able to see what the equivalent of "total" is. I would just start making runs and adding 2° until it quits improving, and then back to the previous best. I ended up with a base of 14° BTDC that way. Most people end up with 8° to 10°.
RACE ON!!!
I'm running the same timing on my 88 Iroc L98. It has no knock But I have to run 91 octane.
I ended up at 8 on my 87, I've always believed in the -set it where it runs best. Hey Kid, I grew up with those engines too, mech and vac.
I actually liked toying with weights, springs etc.But, I too like the electronics of our engines-except when there's a problem.