Considering 383
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,991
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix AZ
Originally Posted by jodyeastman
I understand the point you guys are making about being drivable. I want to have this car as a daily driver so that is important to me as well. Wicked high stalls are not what I'm looking for either....regarding the 400+ cubic inches, I think cost starts to really increase here and although I don't race the car, I want the engine to last.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 5,713
Likes: 105
From: Manassas VA
Jody, look at this web page for some combo's of the LT1 http://www.golenengineservice.com/html/lt1_lt4.html I have no personal experience with them but I have heard good things about them. Even if you choose to do your own engine building, look at the parts combos in each of these to give you an idea of power potientals.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 914
Likes: 1
From: Redding Ca
Jody/Stubbs,
I doubt anyone is trying to rain on your parade. Mainly we are speaking from experince. Until FI came along, 1-HP per cubic inch was a stout street machine. Witness 425 HP BBC's, hemi's, Fords, etc. And 1.5 hp per cubic inch was a good rule of thumb for a bracket engine that can easily rev to 7,500+.
With modern technology such as FI, really Gucci heads, cams, and computers, etc, a little more than 1-hp per inch is achievable in a sreet motor. The new/awesome 427 ZO6 is 427 making 505hp = 1.2 hp per cubic inch. Without trying to be rude or insulting, take advertised claims with a grain of salt. Evaluate the parts and technology going into the engine. If you are shooting for 500 hp, you will need, in IMO, an engine that can rev, breathe and make good power at high RPM's to make up for the shortfall in inches. Good luck with your project and I hope you prove me
wrong and I get to eat my words! 
Keep us informed! We are all in the same boat here!
I doubt anyone is trying to rain on your parade. Mainly we are speaking from experince. Until FI came along, 1-HP per cubic inch was a stout street machine. Witness 425 HP BBC's, hemi's, Fords, etc. And 1.5 hp per cubic inch was a good rule of thumb for a bracket engine that can easily rev to 7,500+.
With modern technology such as FI, really Gucci heads, cams, and computers, etc, a little more than 1-hp per inch is achievable in a sreet motor. The new/awesome 427 ZO6 is 427 making 505hp = 1.2 hp per cubic inch. Without trying to be rude or insulting, take advertised claims with a grain of salt. Evaluate the parts and technology going into the engine. If you are shooting for 500 hp, you will need, in IMO, an engine that can rev, breathe and make good power at high RPM's to make up for the shortfall in inches. Good luck with your project and I hope you prove me
wrong and I get to eat my words! Keep us informed! We are all in the same boat here!
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,991
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix AZ
Originally Posted by GeosFun
If you are shooting for 500 hp, you will need, in IMO, an engine that can rev, breathe and make good power at high RPM's to make up for the shortfall in inches. Good luck with your project and I hope you prove me wrong and I get to eat my words! Keep us informed! We are all in the same boat here!
wrong and I get to eat my words! Keep us informed! We are all in the same boat here!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 494
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From: Victoria BC
I'd be curious what all you 383 guys have dynoed / 1/4 mile dyno calculated. This is not new and there should be a consistant baseline to draw from. I know cams make a difference and many other things, but we are talking about similiar cars all in all.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 494
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From: Victoria BC
And by the way...thanks for all the input guys. I don't want this post to turn to rant or anything. I just want the best bang for my buck like anyone. I assume there are enough people in here that have done this before and can accurately inform me as to what can be done or if I'm dreaming before I waste my money on a pipeline dream.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 14,924
Likes: 9
From: Merritt Ils Fl
Originally Posted by jodyeastman
Hey thanks guys; this gives me more to think about regarding budget, etc. I want to have 500 HP (note not RWHP) and I think a 383 may be the best way to go. I want to be naturally aspirated.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,030
Likes: 6
From: Maryland
Originally Posted by jodyeastman
I'd be curious what all you 383 guys have dynoed / 1/4 mile dyno calculated. This is not new and there should be a consistant baseline to draw from. I know cams make a difference and many other things, but we are talking about similiar cars all in all.
383's are all about the torque, not so much peak hp. I did a little searching on old posts and I see typical LT1 383's in the 410 rwhp / 420 rwtq area if memory serves. I think you will fall 30 hp short unless you do some radical camming. And anything beyond a 224 duration won't pass emissions.
This will be a lot of money dumped into the car too--consider your usage and plan INSURANCE accordingly. You will need a good agreed value policy to cover the mod investment and I think all of those companies discourage using the car as a daily driver or to work.
Yes it can happen--I had my motor done to a 355 and on my first drive other than driving it home from the shop it was totalled by an idiot in an SUV who hit it. I was sure glad I didn't 383-- I considered it strongly.
383's are custom designs. You're re-doing the whole motor.
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Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,518
Likes: 19
I was only able to read bits and pieces of this thread. The attachments kept locking up my computer. Fwiw, 383's, typically speaking, do not like to rev. Attempting to build a longer stroke motor, for the purpose of pushing big hp, as a result of rpm, seems counter productive to me. I may be off base here, but as mentioned, I only caught small pieces of this thread. Carry on
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,172
Likes: 9
From: '88 TPI L98/HotCam Powell, Ohio
Thanks Stubbs for taking the time to scan those articles!! Lots of info in one spot. I'm saving up for my 388 (leaning towards the HSR and a Carbon Fiber hi rise hood). I also think 500 at the crank shouldn't be too difficult with the right plan.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,991
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix AZ
Originally Posted by mrc24x
Thanks Stubbs for taking the time to scan those articles!! Lots of info in one spot.
Last edited by stubbs; Feb 25, 2006 at 10:55 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,518
Likes: 19
Originally Posted by stubbs
Thats only 383's with 6" rods, which are less common.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,991
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From: Phoenix AZ
Originally Posted by Pete K
Really. The 8 that I have built with 5.7 rods would not rev for sh*t. I could not imagine a 6.0 being worse. I will take your word though.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,518
Likes: 19
I certainly believe it can be done. Experience has taught me that bigger bore, shorter stroke motors will rev quicker (get to 7k faster) and live longer there while making good horsepower. I personally, have never tried the smaller bore, long stroke approach to making horsepower. With the long stroke stuff, I aim for torque. The slow to rev 383 with a 700r4 wide ratio trans seems to be a case of 2 wrongs making a right and complimenting each other. Works for me, in my case. I uses heavy parts, turn low revs and make good torque, and gets me down the 1/4 mile well. My apologies if this is off track of the origional thread. I was able to read almost none of it, due to the attachments.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 914
Likes: 1
From: Redding Ca
With the long stroke stuff, I aim for torque. The slow to rev 383 with a 700r4 wide ratio trans seems to be a case of 2 wrongs making a right and complimenting each other.
I agree. I just finished a 6" rod, 406" w/Superram, 700R, 2000 stall converter. Still have 2.59 rear end. I just changed the oil at 500 miles yesterday. Our strip opens in late March. I am holding off any in-depth discussion of my combo until I have a few time slips in hand. But the engine is aimed at torque, 100,000 mile dependability and smog compliance. Rev range should be 6000 max, maybe even slightly less.
I agree. I just finished a 6" rod, 406" w/Superram, 700R, 2000 stall converter. Still have 2.59 rear end. I just changed the oil at 500 miles yesterday. Our strip opens in late March. I am holding off any in-depth discussion of my combo until I have a few time slips in hand. But the engine is aimed at torque, 100,000 mile dependability and smog compliance. Rev range should be 6000 max, maybe even slightly less.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Slidell Louisiana
Originally Posted by C4CBF
Is 500bhp achievable on a NA 383?
Fbody guys do it, somehow the get NA 350s to pull 500chp 500 HP LT1
Last edited by aboatguy; Feb 26, 2006 at 08:46 AM.